Hey guys was just wondering how difficult it is and what you need to do to split the cases on an 87 250 any input would be great thanks
Buy a case splitter and take your time......
Do they make a specific one for the lt or are they all the same?
I did my 90 250R using basic hand tools and a Clymer Manual. I hand made a a wooden stand out of 2x4's like the one in the manual to lay the case on when splitting it. It's wasn't as hard as I thought it was going to be. The instructions were clear and I took pictures along the way to make sure I re-assembled it the way it came apart.
Yeah I've been looking around but haven't found a manual what did you do use a wooden wedge to split them or something?
Yeah I figured that when I end up doing it I'm just gonna buy a splitter no sense in being cheap rather then do it right when its gonna be a lot more expensize to fix if I break it
yea its pretty easy if you have the manual. The crank driven gear bolt is reverse thread so you have to watch that.I made my own crank puller. Transmission is the hardest part if you take it apart. Just because their a lot of piece to it.But i dont use a case spliter, I use a soft blow snap on hammer.If you tap the case in the right part they will split.But never hammer on the crank to get it out. But why do you need to split your cases.
I wanted to see how the teeth on my gears are looking I was having some problems with it sometimes it would slip out of first into neutral
And I wanted to see what condition most of the bearings and seals are in I have no idea when they were last done I got my hands on manual just waiting on some warmer weather and I'm gonna take a look at my clutch and make sure it wasn't anything with that first
yea its good to know what the inside are like.I just replaced every bearing seal and oring in mine and a new crank. But my old stuff really wasnt in that bad of shape. Crank had rod play and crank bearing was getting play.If you do replace the bearing use all oem or Sgp parts.Had extra money so i thought i would go ahead and do it.
Yeah I pulled my stator cover off to see if I had any play there and it was nice and tight and I checked when I had the top end off when I first bought i and there was no play in the crank I'm just not to sure about the seals because last time I changed my oil it was a little milky but it was really cold when I was riding and I was told when the bike is that cold and you start warming it up condensation can build and make the oil milky what do you think I'm pretty sure it wasn't a coolant leak because the coolant level was right where it was when I filled it
yea i was the one who told you that.The motor sweats if its really cold then it warms up during day.Big swings in temp do it.
Oh ok yeah I'm gonna take a look at my clutch first I haven't seen any chunks or any metal in my oil so I don't think anything broke off
Pulled the clutch cover today not to sure what I should be checking for but there were small grooves where the plates slide into the baske t on once side other was smooth took the best pic I could check it out...was gonna get the plates bur not sure the torque specs for the spings and stuff my cousin tried telling me just snug them down tight n then do a 1/4 turn I laughed n said im doin it to suzuki specs not urs
The grooves are common on the basket, if there not to deep you can file them smooth so the clutch doesn't hang up. If its really grooved you'll need a new basket. The clutch springs should be torqued 4-5 ft'lbs. If it's popping out of gear the most likely culprit is the dogs on the sides of the trans gears being worn and rounded off.