After installing thrust washers, getting past the broken power valve actuator (see other threads) and pulling 153psi this thing fired up today for the first time since it's been in my possession.  There are multiple issues, however:

1)  it doesn't really want to idle but this could easily be due to the rebuilt carb and needing to adjust correctly

2)  it has smooth low end response but as soon as I hit mid throttle it bubbles and stumbles on itself.  It has a stock carb with stock jets and just a cone filter attached to the intake side of the carb.  I didn't have any other tubes attached to it other than the fuel line.  My 4 stroke LTZ250 backfires like crazy if I take off one of the vacuum tubes on the carb.  Are these similar?

3)  exhaust gases **** out of the connection at the mid pipe and head pipe.  Could this cause mid range issues?

4)  The clutch isn't working at all.  When I pull the lever, there's plenty of spring tension but it will not roll whatsoever.  I was able to actually ride in first gear by rolling down a hill after starting and popping it into first.  I shifted up to 2nd but as soon as I hit an uphill it wanted to die under load.  This could honestly be the clutch disks fused together because this thing sat with a locked up top end for years.  I've got another clutch I could put in and that's probably gonna be the solution.

Would any of these items above likely be contributing to the poor throttle response and wanting to stall under load?

It was cool to finally hear/see it run after all this time.  Now I just need to work my way into actually getting to ride it!

Thanks for any guidance~

Try to get a airbox and correct box to carb boot. This is the best intake for all round engine performance. Hanging a filter off the back of the carb is not the best.

What happens when you are in neutral and pull in the clutch and shift to first?

Try raising the needle one clip (positon on the needle is lower). What position is the needle currently?

Unfortunately I don't have an airbox here - I do have one from an LT230S - not sure if I can modify that or not...

When I shift to first from neutral with the clutch lever pulled, it immediately drops into gear and stalls.  I tried getting revs way up (the mid-range bubbling affected this) and dump it into gear but it would stall right away. 

The needle is right in the center at the moment.  I used a Shindy stock rebuild kit and set everything per the manual although it may have been 1986 settings...

Try to ebay or ask on here for a airbox and tube.

Sounds like the clutch is NOT disengaging at all. Those plates might be locked up from sitting for so long. You might try to disassemble the clutch and soak them in some new tranny fluid.

You cant work on the jetting issues until you get a functioning transmission.

Pics and video below of the current state of affairs:

Pics of the setup - I'm missing a vent hose or two on the carb:










This is a 1min video of it being kicked over.  It fires right up with me blipping the gas as I kick.  I'm bumping the throttle throughout to keep it going but it does finally idle at the end.  As you'll see, it dies right away when activating the choke.  Also, you can hear it stumble and sound like it's hitting a rev limiter when I throttle up.





This next one is just under 2mins.  It idles fine throughout and I give a little commentary at the end with what I've been finding.  I run up through the throttle positions very slowly and you can hear the bumping/stumbling it's doing.  Not sure if maybe that little filter in the gas line is a problem as well? 






Very curious as to thoughts and recommendations as to what I need to or should do to get this thing on track.  Sounds like the first thing is an air box...?


Thanks for any help and guidance~

I cant get videos to work

If you click the image it should bring you to Photobucket where the video plays on a page there.  It looks like it plays in .mp4 format on that page if that helps at all. 

I'm curious as to the condition of your stock silencer. Almost like it's restricted. Also, get a larger air filter, preferably one with an extended mounting tube. Have you posted up yet what your jetting & needle position is? I'm assuming that is a TM-34 carb?

Thanks for the note.  I just put the stock silencer on in place of a DG that was on there.  The DG had a mid-pipe that someone 'crafted' and it barely worked and shot hot exhaust gases at the carb from the connection to the head pipe.  I pulled the stock silencer off a 92 and it's been sitting in my basement for a couple years. 

The carb is a stock 1988 carb that I just rebuilt with a basic Shindy rebuild kit.  The clip for the jet needle is set right in the middle and it was suggested to me on another thread to raise the clip up one notch to lower the needle - I just haven't had time yet.  Hoping to get to that and the stuck clutch issue by the time the weekend is out. 

Could you give me a recommendation for a larger air filter and extended mounting tube?  Are there general lengths and sizes available for these types of things that can be ordered?  There was an 'almost complete' stock airbox on ebay the other day.  I'm not sure the best route to go.  This quad will basically just be used for buzzing around the yard/trails I have here so it should not be considered high-performance by any means. 
The big goal I've had is to just get the thing running with the parts I've had on hand.  They've been sitting as projects here for a couple years now so I figured it was time to actually do something with them. 

Thanks for any info/guidance~

I've never liked champion plugs in two strokes. Try a NGK B8es. Buy a couple of them. Also, Are you sure the exaust isn't restricted anywhere? Air should move freely through the silencer. I've also noticed stripped threads on the reed valve mounts on one of my motors. Be careful not to overtighten. If any are stripped, place a small washer and nylon lock nut on the back to make sure your Reed valve cage has a good seal.

In this video here (before I made the changes in the update today), when I flip the choke at the end the motor just dies. 



The fuel filter has an arrow that says 'flow' pointing toward the carb so I'm guessing it's on the right way.  When I pull the hose off the carb and turn the petcock to 'On' fuel flows out in a solid stream. 

I may have some old radiator hose kicking around I can use to couple that connection.  The DG pipe that was on there actually had radiator hose connecting it to the mid pipe.  It wasn't really long enough so I pulled it off and put the stock pipe on.  I can switch them out though if it may be helpful in diagnosing it more. 

Would you suggest I put the DG pipe back on first and see how it does before attempting other changes?

I appreciate the guidance and advice.

Thanks~

have you made sure your reeds are not broke I sounds like it mite have broken reeds

I've got a couple sets of reeds/cages on hand and this set was in the best condition.  They appear to be for this machine (the other set clearly isn't - they're too long and have gaps on the side) and looked like they sealed well.  I can pull them and snap some pics though if that would be helpful. 

It's strange because it sounds kind of weak to me when it's running - hard to explain, but I've also never had a 2-stroke before.  Other videos I see online have the motors firing and zinging away where this one sounds like it's just popping along. 

Has anyone had a situation happen like this where it bogs and dies under load?

.5 on the air screw sounds like your pilot is lean. Also is the powervalve working. Have you looked threw the glass to see if it was moving.

Thanks for reminding me on this - the power valve is NOT working.  I looked through the glass while give it gas and nothing happens.  When I put the head on I checked to insure everything moved properly and I could easily move it by hand when I connected the actuator rod.  Not sure if I have to loosen those screws and dial the spring back or what. 

Yeah. Spring gets dialed back 360* counterclockwise. Then fine tune from there.