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Author Topic: Fuel coming out of the air filter and dieseling engine.  (Read 1206 times)

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  • 1991 Lt250r
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What pipe do you have. Since you changed the jet it quit running off didnt it. I fought this same problem with mine for awhile. The biggest thing help mine was I took the ex flange off and put the new gasket on Behind the flange .Then I clean ex flange really good cleaned the pipe out really good. Then I used  honda bond on my flange and inside of the pipe. Then I let it sit till it completely dried.  Which stop all the leaking the motor then I figured out my jetting.   Which took awhile . Do you have fmf pipe and silencer.
91 Lt250r Bartlett port and head mod v force 2 Hinson Clutch Basket Cool Head Scp Pipe and silencer ,KN air filter ,EBC clutch, Ohlins  Triple rate Shocks Redone by PEP Shocks,Stock Rear Shock Redone By Pep Shock,  DG nerf Bars , Lonestar axle 2+2,Lonestar Swingarm ,Douglas Red Label rims.

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Yep its a fmf. What size jets did you end up with. I know the weather and altitude play a role but I'm just curious. I also took my exhaust manifold off and used some rtv silicone. I'm still having trouble with the idol screw needing to be all the way in. Also when I choked it to start once today it reved up pretty high and I had to shut the choke off for it to idol down. I thought it was going to diesel and it was a ice cold start.

Should the idol screw move the slide up and down? When I had the carb off I couldn't notice any movement.

Also, do you have a normal gasket for the exhaust valve as well as that squish round gasket? I put some rev sealent on the head where the studs are and also on the pipe but I ran it right away and blew it out a bit.  I got some threebond I might try and let sit for a few days and dry up.

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Another thing....When I rev the quad it still takes a while to idol down.

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You are way lean... maybe an air leak?
Brian
1988 Suzuki LT-250R (The HPR test mule)
1987 Suzuki LT-500R
1990 Suzuki LT-500R
1982 Honda ATC-185S
1982 Honda ATC-250R

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I think it's time to build a leak down tester and see what I come up with.  I'm really starting to wonder if there is a leak someplace now.

Any good threads or tutorials on how to build a leak down tester?  Also is there anything I need to worry about with the exhaust valve or any special things I should do or lookout for?  Do I need to remove any covers to check for leaks if I happen to have one that I can't see from the outside?

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life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sidays totally worn out shouting "HOLY SH*T...WHAT A RIDE!"

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With your same setup I ran around a 40 pilot in winter. Between 210 to 220 in the  winter 3rd or 4th clip. . Summer 35 pilot  195 to 205 in the summer needle 4th clip.  But find out if you got a leak before you try what I was running.  That low of jet with a leak will fry the motor.. leak down tester is a 2 stroke best friend. I wish I would have made a video  when I put mine together.
91 Lt250r Bartlett port and head mod v force 2 Hinson Clutch Basket Cool Head Scp Pipe and silencer ,KN air filter ,EBC clutch, Ohlins  Triple rate Shocks Redone by PEP Shocks,Stock Rear Shock Redone By Pep Shock,  DG nerf Bars , Lonestar axle 2+2,Lonestar Swingarm ,Douglas Red Label rims.

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Wow that low of a main huh? Did you mean 310, 290...ext?

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No thats   what I used.. the boyesen reed say in instruction that you may have to drop the main by 6 sizes Because it can make them rich.The fmf will run on stock jetting say nothing about  running bigger jets. Also they were jetted safe form the factory.  Done plug chops to confrim I wasnt rich.I never melted a piston down the whole time I ran the setup. When I first got my quad 3 years ago. It had a 240 main  needle in 5th clip and a 45 pilot.  Running 44 to 1   now i run 32 to 1 Which it poured oil out of the flange. People never wanted to ride behind me because their quad got soaked in oil. But it would pull threw all parts  of the throttle. But after I jetted it down finally got it to quit soaking the silencer and for it to stop making a mess. But the biggest thing getting the pilot and the needle working right so you can get to wot to get it to pull full threw the throttle.
91 Lt250r Bartlett port and head mod v force 2 Hinson Clutch Basket Cool Head Scp Pipe and silencer ,KN air filter ,EBC clutch, Ohlins  Triple rate Shocks Redone by PEP Shocks,Stock Rear Shock Redone By Pep Shock,  DG nerf Bars , Lonestar axle 2+2,Lonestar Swingarm ,Douglas Red Label rims.

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Well, good and bad news....

Bad news is I found a huge leak while pressure testing right under where the exhaust flange is where the case comes together.  Also a slight leak at the bottom of the cylinder as well.

Good news is that I found the problem and now I can take the proper steps to fix this.

Do you guys think I should try and find a used bottom end and just swap it out?  The one I have has all the paint stripped off and looks kinda cool like that.  I have a friend who runs a shop and will redo the seals with me for 125.00 but I have to buy all the parts and such.  Maybe I should buy the tools and attempt myself?  I guess i'm at a crossroad of what step to take next and would love some advice from you fine folks.


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Also what is the best and cheapest way to buy a full engine gasket set and seals.  If i do go the route of having my friend do it he said I should replace my crank bearings as well.  Should i get the seals with that or the full gasket set?

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I figured it was a air leak you had. But when rebuilding these motor you dont want cut cost on seal and gaskets.  Stay with oem gasket and seal and orings.  It will cost a little more but will be worth reliability.  I would just go threw and do all the seal.
91 Lt250r Bartlett port and head mod v force 2 Hinson Clutch Basket Cool Head Scp Pipe and silencer ,KN air filter ,EBC clutch, Ohlins  Triple rate Shocks Redone by PEP Shocks,Stock Rear Shock Redone By Pep Shock,  DG nerf Bars , Lonestar axle 2+2,Lonestar Swingarm ,Douglas Red Label rims.

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Cometic afm base gasket, buy it in the store here. The stock base gasket is a pos... The head, cometic with with ultra grey or o-rings.
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actually the oem head gasket is pretty good, and the oem base gasket is better than most of the others, i would get the cometic base and a oem head, and seals are very easy to change, you just need a good pic to remove them, and put new ones in. no need to tear motor apart, just a few things need taken off to do this. if you have tools do it your self, no need to have a shop do them.  put a little bit of grease on the seals before you put them in.
life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sidays totally worn out shouting "HOLY SH*T...WHAT A RIDE!"

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Would it be best to just buy all Cometic gaskets?  I'm very confused on where to find Oem gasket kits and exactly what they're to be honest. The only complete kit I could find with seals is from Moose or something.  I did find Cometic top end kit and bottom end kits though.

Also the store here is out of gaskets it looks like for the lt250r.

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actually the oem head gasket is pretty good, and the oem base gasket is better than most of the others, i would get the cometic base and a oem head, and seals are very easy to change, you just need a good pic to remove them, and put new ones in. no need to tear motor apart, just a few things need taken off to do this. if you have tools do it your self, no need to have a shop do them.  put a little bit of grease on the seals before you put them in.

When you say "pic" do you mean picture? No need to tear the motor apart to replace all the seals and gaskets for the top and bottom end?  Please explain.

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no a pick to pull seal out, instead of jamming a screw driver in it.


something like these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Mini-Pick-set-of-4-/171209192925?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item27dcdcf5dd&vxp=mtr
life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sidays totally worn out shouting "HOLY SH*T...WHAT A RIDE!"

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no a pick to pull seal out, instead of jamming a screw driver in it.


something like these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Mini-Pick-set-of-4-/171209192925?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item27dcdcf5dd&vxp=mtr

What tools will I need for splitting the cases?  Just a flywheel puller tool or more?

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You got a local shop or order from internet place that sells oem suzuk parts. I like the oem base better. I have never had oem base leak on me. I have had Cometic base and head gaskets leak . Hear is place I have used before to buy oem parts.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/#/l/suz/50d086c4f87002271015a0ae/1988-quad-racer-lt250r-parts

91 Lt250r Bartlett port and head mod v force 2 Hinson Clutch Basket Cool Head Scp Pipe and silencer ,KN air filter ,EBC clutch, Ohlins  Triple rate Shocks Redone by PEP Shocks,Stock Rear Shock Redone By Pep Shock,  DG nerf Bars , Lonestar axle 2+2,Lonestar Swingarm ,Douglas Red Label rims.

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well sometimes you can split them with out any special tools, but if they are bonded together good you might need a case spliter, dont go jamming a screw driver between the cases, you will damage them and it wont seal where you put screw driver ati would try to put some yamma bond on the case where its leaking first, this way you dont need to split them. just clean area very well, use rubber gloves so the oil from your fingers dont contaminate the area that is leaking.
life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sidays totally worn out shouting "HOLY SH*T...WHAT A RIDE!"

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Update...

Took it to my friends shop and I'm glad I did because it was kinda a big job and I just don't have had the tools we ended up needeing. Plus having a solvent/cleaning tank was amazing for cleaning out all of the engine parts from years of gunk and sludge. Anyways, we put all new seals and gaskets and also new crank bearings, honed it out and carbon reeds in it. Super stoked to get out and ride this thing today on the ice and see how she runs now.

Thanks everyone for all the advice and guidance so far,  just wanted to say this place has been a huge help.

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well what was the problem.
life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sidays totally worn out shouting "HOLY SH*T...WHAT A RIDE!"

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How did you go from asking us how to split cases to rebuilding the bottom and top end in 4 business days?  P* :o <1>
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How did you go from asking us how to split cases to rebuilding the bottom and top end in 4 business days?  P* :o <1>

Top end I had already had punched out and I put back together and then had this problem here.  I was debating trying to split the cases myself and save the 100.00 I paid my friend to do this, and just buy some tools and such with the money instead.  That is why I was asking questions about it and trying to figure out my options.

Here is how the bottom end and all the bearings and seals/gaskets got done in a single day, not in 4 days.  S~

I went to my local shop around 11am and they had almost everything that I needed on hand, except one seal which another local bike shop just so happened to have, I made it to the other shop around noon to pick up the last seal I needed and my shopping was done for the day.  From here I took it back to my friends shop and ended up there about 1pm, and he then tore the engine apart like he had done it 100x before.  We did the whole tear down and rebuild (I had the engine out of the quad already) in about 6 hours as I helped clean parts in the solvent tank and watched as he worked his magic. My buddy has worked in a honda dealership and also a harley dealership as a mechanic, so he knows his stuff pretty well and has all the tools.  Nothing crazy really, just having the right tools and know how and you can obviously do a whole rebuild in a single day.  I definitely learned a lot along the way though!

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well what was the problem.

What wasn't the problem might be easier to answer if I'm being honest.  With a leak down test the engine leaked from several spots, reeds were shot, crank bearings had some noise, leaking oil from almost every case seal besides the kick starter, top end was destroyed originally, carb needed a rebuild.  I wish I could have just replaced the crank as well while we were that deep in it, but I was tapped on cash by this point unfortunately.

The only thing to do now is get my jetting sorted out, and cross my fingers nothing else goes wrong.

 

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