I'm looking for a FTZ Super Fat Pipe for a 1989 LT250R please let me know if you have one.

Why post 2 thread for same item In different sections. No need to do that new post go to board so people will see it.

He posted 3.

Hey no big deal. We were all new here once, and make afew mistakes.

Don't let it bother you.  Welcome to the site

FTZ is as bad as they come, looks like a 500 pipe.

Thanks for the kind welcome guys. I ride a 04 Banshee and you guys are a lot nicer and a hell of a lot more helpful than the majority of the member of Banshee HQ. We're looking for a FTZ Pipe because my Brother runs one on his 89 TRX-250R and his bike runs REALLY strong with the FTZ Pipe even down low. He's tried the FMF Fatty and a few others and none of them have been near the pipe the FTZ has been. So I figured the FTZ Super Fat in frame setup would be a choice for the LT especially having the Power Valve and the Cylinder Setup he's going with.

He's using a 86 RM250 Cylinder (w/ the LT500 Intake) and he's sending it off to Kustom Kraft and their cut making it a 265cc Big Bore. Plus it will be running a Aggressive Trail/Dune Port, BIG V3 Reed Cage, 38mm Mikuni TM Carburetor with Fuel Induction System, and K7N Pod with Outerwear's Pre-Filter so he will be moving a lot of fuel/air and that will require a big pipe for maximum efficiency and a power band that pulls hard from the bottom to top with a nice power curve.

I've found that just about all your 2-stroke trail/recreational rider motors perform best if you load them up with the small mods that help throttle response and bottom end (like carburetor air foils, indexed spark plugs, reed cage spacer, power-jet, ect ), set them up to run the highest compression possible for the fuel you'll be using, port the cylinder for the power to come on low and compliment that with a good size flat slide carburetor (38mm in this case) and a high rev pipe. This way your bike will smoke the 4-Strokes in a straight line and still be a awesome woods bike.

I haven't seen the Shearer pipe or SCP Pipe for the LT. Do they have a huge expansion chamber like the FTZ has. If you guys don't mind posting pictures of other pipe options that are comparable to the FTZ Pipe I would appreciate it.

       Thack 82

         

i have heard the ftz is a bad mofo, and if you wait a few months
there might be something better coming up for the 250 pipe selection.
i think there is a new monster in the works.

You two and your secrets have just BLOWN my mind.... now I must learn more about these wispers 

Keep your fingers crossed

no need to cross fingers, its happening...

Do you guys know what this new pipe will look like? I wish I could see a prototype picture or a CAD Rendering.

I'm not having any luck finding a FTZ Super Fat Pipe and XC/Woods Silancer. Finding one used has been impossible. I've talked to him about the Shearer Hi-Rev In-Frame and I can't get him to bite and I can't find a good picture of the SCP In-Frame to show him. Do any of you have a picture you could post up?

He's going to be running a Stock Stroke Hot Rods Billet Crank 265cc Aggressive Trail Ported 86 RM250 Cylinder (LT-500 Intake), 38mm Mikuni TM w/ Mikuni Power Jet and K&N Pod w/ Outerwear's Pre-Filter, V-Force V3 Reed Cage, .5" Billet Reed Cage Spacer, FTZ Full PVL Ignition, and a lot of other nice parts. His LT is ment and one of the nicest ones I've ever seen. He's got it fixed up nice.

Last time I talked to him he told me he bought a 2-Stroke Exhaust Builder Computer Software and he was going to make his own at my shop. I explained to him a English Wheel was a must and even if I had one their was so much that went into building a awesome 2-Stroke Pipe and I thought he'd be wasting his time.

He thinks that he can plug in all the info that's ask for in that program and build a pipe comparable to the FTZ Hi-Rev! He doesn't understand that he's going to build pipe VERY similar to the stock 86 RM Pipe. Then you put the quad on a Dyno and try making this bigger and this part smaller, and this part longer. Then you Dyno it, then build another pipe, and after you get it as good as you possibly can you real world test it and after all that building and dyno testing it still might perform like **** in real world conditions. Plus I don't have a English wheel or a Dyno and half the other **** needed to build a 2-Stroke Exhaust.

He will hack up a perfect Chrome LRD Exhaust, spend months and all kinds of money on this and it will run awful and look even worse! I don't know how to tell him he can't make his own exhaust and have a pipe that's comparable to a FTZ, SCP, or LRD. When I start hunting at it he gets defensive.

Will you guys PLEASE help me find a Hi Rev Pipe with a BIG Expansion Chamber like the FTZ Super Fat In-Frame! This guy is going to **** up big time if I don't find something pretty quick for a fair price.

Thanks,
Thack82

Thack82 you have warned him that developing two-stroke exhaust systems is very time consuming and expensive.  Your friend sounds very determined.  I had similar warnings and discouragement 40 years ago from engine builders and friends. 

It is this type of determination that made me find out the pipe formulas just generates a crude starting point. I have yet to find any software that even comes close to designing the optimum pipe with out a lot of testing and refinement.   It was this type of determination that gave me the desire to become an engineer.  It was this type of determination that makes you spend 80 plus hours a week testing, learning, building a lot of test pipes that were dismal failures. It is this type of determination that makes you keep buying new cylinders because you ruined cylinders trying new porting ideas.  I would let him pursue his passion.  He may eventually gain enough experience to be able to build engine/pipe combinations that satisfies his goals.

I hate to see him waist his money and time when he could take the money he's going to waste he could buy the FTZ Pipe he wants. I bought a Dremel Tool 3000 and about $1,200 worth of pneumatic Grinders, Pencil Grinders (90, 45, and straight), a bunch of long and short shank carbide porting bits, Flex Hones, foot pedal, and two JobSmart 1-1/2 HP 26 Gallon Oil Lubricated Vertical Air Compressors and plumbed them together and set them up so they'd alternate when one dropped down to 45psi tank pressure, so I'd have consistent air and I started reading and researching how to port.

I'll port the Intake, Exhaust, and Transfer Tunnels free hand I even put my own spin on it and reshape the intake a little so the air flows into the Boyesen or Finger Ports a little more efficiently, but when it comes to the widows I WON'T touch them without a Magnetic Sport Port Layout. I usually buy the Race Logic Layouts but I don't think they make a kit for the LT250 or the RM Dirt Bike. It makes porting the windows easy and insures you get the perfect angles and detentions on the windows. I like to use White Spray Paint and paint the inside of the cylinder VS the blue dye because I can see the scribe marks better. Then after I'm finished I spray electrical motor cleaner and paint thinner to remove the paint. Then I run a Flex Hone with a mixture of Synthetic Mobil-1 Motor Oil, Penetrating Oil, and a Micro-Lubricant and run the Polishing hone through the cylinder slowly to make absolutely sure there's no burs and the cylinder had good cross hatching. I lubricate the hone so I remove minimal material from the sleeve. Then I use the blue dye and port match the center cases to match the new enlarged transfer tunnels.

I also open up the crank case vent and tap it and insert a Stainless Steel Threaded Barb. This reduces crankcase pressure and extends crank seal life, plus it allows the transmission to hold about 12% more oil which results in longer clutch life and cooler operating temperatures.

I guess he's seen some of the stuff I do and assumes anything can be done, but I know my limits and he doesn't. The two stroke engines I have built run strong, but I pretty much only do Woods and XC builds for trail quads because thats pretty much all I know. I guess he's seen me port and add little tricks that I've come up with over the past ten years and he thinks anything is possible. I did make a custom tuned exhaust for my Daughters 4-Stroke Mini Race Quad (that runs a HUGE Custom Built Honda CRF-50 Cloned Engine thats now 160cc's) using Custom Exhaust Software but I collected all the data and inserted it into the program, made a CAD rendering on my Auto-Cad Program, then I bought a Full FMF Big Bore 4.1 Exhaust System for a CRF-50/70 ($289.99), a FMF Megabomb Head Pipe for a CRF-150R ($244.99), and a 2' Stick of 1.75"ID T-308 Stainless Steel Exhaust Pipe & Stainless Steel Tig Rod (the same pipe and rod FMF uses $39.00), and sent it all of that along with the Cad Rendering to a custom exhaust builder and he hacked everything up, mandrel bent the 2" Stick of T-308 pipe and tig welded everything back together and it worked out GREAT! But thats a four stroke exhaust and I bought $535 dollars worth of FMF Exhaust Systems, I didn't try to make my own Megabomb!





He will worry me to death attempting to build this pipe and use up a ton of supplies doing it. My recommendation was call LED. and see what he charges for his biggest Hi-Rev Expansion Chamber and use it withe the like new LRD Exhaust he has, run the LRD Exhaust he has until he finds a used FTZ Super Fat Pipe in good condition, or just save his money and bite the bullet and buy a new FTZ or SCP Exhaust System and be done with it. I can't believe somebody on here doesn't have a FTZ Fat Pipe that they'd part with for a reasonable amount of money?              

PLEASE continue to help me find a Big High Rev Pipe for this LT250R Build. I REALLY appreciate all of you guys voicing your opinions and helping me out with this. This is the first LT250R I've messed with and I'm not very familiar with all the mods, parts and tricks you guys know that makes the old LT's scream.

                 Thanks,
                    Thack82