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Author Topic: WTB: FTZ Super Fat In-Frame Pipe for LT250R  (Read 1561 times)

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Re: WTB: FTZ Super Fat In-Frame Pipe for LT250R
« on: February 17, 2014, 05:56:41 pm »
I hate to see him waist his money and time when he could take the money he's going to waste he could buy the FTZ Pipe he wants. I bought a Dremel Tool 3000 and about $1,200 worth of pneumatic Grinders, Pencil Grinders (90, 45, and straight), a bunch of long and short shank carbide porting bits, Flex Hones, foot pedal, and two JobSmart 1-1/2 HP 26 Gallon Oil Lubricated Vertical Air Compressors and plumbed them together and set them up so they'd alternate when one dropped down to 45psi tank pressure, so I'd have consistent air and I started reading and researching how to port.

I'll port the Intake, Exhaust, and Transfer Tunnels free hand I even put my own spin on it and reshape the intake a little so the air flows into the Boyesen or Finger Ports a little more efficiently, but when it comes to the widows I WON'T touch them without a Magnetic Sport Port Layout. I usually buy the Race Logic Layouts but I don't think they make a kit for the LT250 or the RM Dirt Bike. It makes porting the windows easy and insures you get the perfect angles and detentions on the windows. I like to use White Spray Paint and paint the inside of the cylinder VS the blue dye because I can see the scribe marks better. Then after I'm finished I spray electrical motor cleaner and paint thinner to remove the paint. Then I run a Flex Hone with a mixture of Synthetic Mobil-1 Motor Oil, Penetrating Oil, and a Micro-Lubricant and run the Polishing hone through the cylinder slowly to make absolutely sure there's no burs and the cylinder had good cross hatching. I lubricate the hone so I remove minimal material from the sleeve. Then I use the blue dye and port match the center cases to match the new enlarged transfer tunnels.

I also open up the crank case vent and tap it and insert a Stainless Steel Threaded Barb. This reduces crankcase pressure and extends crank seal life, plus it allows the transmission to hold about 12% more oil which results in longer clutch life and cooler operating temperatures.

I guess he's seen some of the stuff I do and assumes anything can be done, but I know my limits and he doesn't. The two stroke engines I have built run strong, but I pretty much only do Woods and XC builds for trail quads because thats pretty much all I know. I guess he's seen me port and add little tricks that I've come up with over the past ten years and he thinks anything is possible. I did make a custom tuned exhaust for my Daughters 4-Stroke Mini Race Quad (that runs a HUGE Custom Built Honda CRF-50 Cloned Engine thats now 160cc's) using Custom Exhaust Software but I collected all the data and inserted it into the program, made a CAD rendering on my Auto-Cad Program, then I bought a Full FMF Big Bore 4.1 Exhaust System for a CRF-50/70 ($289.99), a FMF Megabomb Head Pipe for a CRF-150R ($244.99), and a 2' Stick of 1.75"ID T-308 Stainless Steel Exhaust Pipe & Stainless Steel Tig Rod (the same pipe and rod FMF uses $39.00), and sent it all of that along with the Cad Rendering to a custom exhaust builder and he hacked everything up, mandrel bent the 2" Stick of T-308 pipe and tig welded everything back together and it worked out GREAT! But thats a four stroke exhaust and I bought $535 dollars worth of FMF Exhaust Systems, I didn't try to make my own Megabomb!





He will worry me to death attempting to build this pipe and use up a ton of supplies doing it. My recommendation was call LED. and see what he charges for his biggest Hi-Rev Expansion Chamber and use it withe the like new LRD Exhaust he has, run the LRD Exhaust he has until he finds a used FTZ Super Fat Pipe in good condition, or just save his money and bite the bullet and buy a new FTZ or SCP Exhaust System and be done with it. I can't believe somebody on here doesn't have a FTZ Fat Pipe that they'd part with for a reasonable amount of money?              

PLEASE continue to help me find a Big High Rev Pipe for this LT250R Build. I REALLY appreciate all of you guys voicing your opinions and helping me out with this. This is the first LT250R I've messed with and I'm not very familiar with all the mods, parts and tricks you guys know that makes the old LT's scream.

                 Thanks,
                    Thack82             

 

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