Looking good.  I love the blue and yellow.

so was hitting false neutral.  mechanic rode it, puling the cluch cover he said could be a spring was over tightened and stretched.  hopefully thats it and i dobt have to pull the cases... otherwise it ran well.

Atleast you dont tear the grass up with those flat track tires. In another video you posted it sound abit rich off the idle but not too bad in this video. How was the throttle response? 

The previous videos were from the other guy before I got it.  The jetting was a mess

He had a 300 main jet but thought he had a 380 in it, the pilot was like a 45 and the mixture screw was turned all the way out to compensate.  This video is running a 350 main, with airbox lid on.  I plan to go up to a 370 main.  The throttle response was great once it warmed up.  The lack of feel and tension in the shift lever was disappointing. 

Hah yes the flat track tires are interesting....  Not exactly sure why the dude bought flat track tires for a quad he didnt flat track.  It also came with the set of rims/tires I had on it when I sold it, Razr's in the rear and no-names from northern tool up front.  He apparently caught a sidewall in one of the fronts with a RR tie before he re-did everything and plugged it.  For tires I spent $29/piece on in 2002, I am going to junk them, and get new ones, or if I can find the same tire, just replace the one.  The tires were only 2 ply but the tread functioned pretty well.  I think the Razr's with their "holeshot" X design will be much better suited for the rough woods trails I will be riding with it. 

I think I may try entering some flat track races if I can find some around here in the North East next year.  Cant think of a quad I would rather have if I was going to do it.  I have to get this thing out on some terrain other than wet grass to test the tires out and see how I feel about riding in the woods with them. 


By the way, thats my mechanic, Chug, riding in that last video I posted not me. 


After my "defeat" I pulled her in the garage last night, wired and installed the headlight assembly he gave me with my boxes of parts from him.  Also swapped out the zilla key assembly for a spare unit for a yamaha wolverine 350 I had lying around (for my 2001 wolverine) and wired it up.  It fit nicely in my right front plastic faring and gave me the room I needed to install these headlights with the bracket he had.  I chose to mount below the bar clamps and I shimmed the back side with washers to match the height of the metal headlight bracket.






Here are the exhaust mounting locations for the Trinity header



A shot from the inside of the fender of the cut I made.  I hit it quickly with the blow torch to clean up the edge of the cut.  I used a metal jig-saw blade to make the cuts in the plastic.  I had tried using Dremels to cut plastics years ago and with the high revolutions it usually just ends up melting the plastic rather than cutting it.  I greatly prefer the hand held jig-saw for this type of job

Looking great... Like the 'Wally' headlights too

Yeah, they look good I am interested to see how bright they are.  While the stock headlight is bulkey, I had a big bulb in it when I previously owned it and it was extremely bright.  The owner said he also upgraded the stator so we will see what kind of output we get. 

Does anybody know if the electrical system on these bikes is capable of powering LEDs?  I dont know if it has only a rectifier or a regulator/rectifier...

http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/dyno-postings/trinity-q1-0-hpr9-on-stock-cylinder/?topicseen

Here is a dyno posted by jerry hall.

Make sure that pipe isn't touching the frame, you'll eat a hole straight through it.
Either put a dimple in it for clearance, or try to tweak it some for clearance.
The FMF that was on my 250 was the same way, and I had to patch weld it back together.
It slobbered sooty oil all over everything LOL

The zilla is not capable of lighting standard LED driving lights by itself, as there is no 12VDC supply.
You have a few options if you want LED's, however.
1. Buy an LED lightbar that was designed to run off AC currents (moderately expensive)
2. Run the LED's off a removable, rechargeable battery (night riding is limited to battery size and quantity, the bigger the capacity, the pricier they are)
3. Install a charging system (labor intensive, moderately expensive)

For the first option, the only one I know of is from baja designs www.bajadesigns.com, they build an LED lightbar specifically for ATV's running AC current (that's us!)
With the second two, you have the option of running HID's instead of LED's as well.
Also keep in mind that the stock charging system is only good for about 60-70 usable watts, unless you buy higher watt coils from Ricky Stator.

Make sure that pipe isn't touching the frame, you'll eat a hole straight through it.
Either put a dimple in it for clearance, or try to tweak it some for clearance.
The FMF that was on my 250 was the same way, and I had to patch weld it back together.
It slobbered sooty oil all over everything LOL

The zilla is not capable of lighting standard LED driving lights by itself, as there is no 12VDC supply.
You have a few options if you want LED's, however.
1. Buy an LED lightbar that was designed to run off AC currents (moderately expensive)
2. Run the LED's off a removable, rechargeable battery (night riding is limited to battery size and quantity, the bigger the capacity, the pricier they are)
3. Install a charging system (labor intensive, moderately expensive)

For the first option, the only one I know of is from baja designs www.bajadesigns.com, they build an LED lightbar specifically for ATV's running AC current (that's us!)
With the second two, you have the option of running HID's instead of LED's as well.
Also keep in mind that the stock charging system is only good for about 60-70 usable watts, unless you buy higher watt coils from Ricky Stator.

OK thanks, the previous owner installed an aftermarket stator.  I thought we were running AC.  When I did my CR500 street supermoto I installed a regulator/rectifier to run LED turn signals, but with all the vibration I went back to just running the AC regulator and got rid of the turn signals.  The signal relays kept vibrating to death lol.  Actually I may still have that regulator/rectifier lying around. 

false netural?
i think you got either a bad shift fork or wore out dog bones. there are no springs that hold it in gear.

I want to say he said "detent" spring but I am not sure.  I will have more information once my builder splits the cases.  When we pulled the clutch cover, the shift drum was moving somewhat freely back and forth, apparently not as it is supposed to.  I am pretty good working on most everything with my bikes but I have never gotten in the motor on any of them before so my knowledge on that part is slim to none. 


______________________________________________________________



So as I did not purchase the Trinity pipe, the previous owner did, I do not know what type of coating is on it.  I only rode it those few laps in one of my fields (from the video I posted) and have noticed some blue-ing in the pipe.  Looks pretty cool.  I wonder if I will end up getting that through the entire header after I get some good seat time on the bike?

i could be wrong but i thought bluing means its running lean or getting hot?

ive heard that too.  was running a 370 main jet with airbox lid on in 50 degree weather

Bluing for the first 15 inches or so is normal when the engine is tuned to make power and is ridden hard.  The color is an indication that the wall of the pipe has reached a certain temperature.  There is a direct correlation between color and temperature.  It has been many years since I looked at the tables of color vs temperature but I think that yellowing occurs in the 500 to 600 deg. F range, bluing occurs when the plating reaches 700 to 800 deg, and purple occurs when the surface has been over 900 deg. F.

The exhaust temperature on most well developed two strokes will be in the 1125 to 1250 deg. F range at wide open throttle.   The temperature of the wall of the pipe depends upon the exhaust temperature inside the pipe, the wall thickness, the thickness of the plating, the velocity of the air moving over the surface of the pipe and how long the engine RPM and throttle position have been maintained.

The type K thermocouples with the 3/16" diameter probes are the most common probes sold.  The 3/16” probe is durable but responds too slowly to follow the true exhaust temperature for drag racing and most types of riding.  It has been my experience that a 3/16” probe on an rapidly accelerating engine (around 1.5 sec. per gear of less) will often indicate a temperature of 1050 deg. F when a small fast response time thermocouple will indicate 1200 deg. F.  This is one the main reason why many guys are burning pistons when their EGT gages are reading under 1050 F.

Think that rust was caused by ethanol fuel or just moisture from wherever it was kept?

you should get that bore checked, it might be out of round, atleast get it honed.
rust is not good, that stuff will wear out a set of rings real fast,

Yea, at the very least a hone and new piston. lots of wear on that thing.  Also, go with OEM rod.  Actually, i have a question for one of the builders;  Being that the Zilla has a bad rod angle, would it help to install a CR500 rod?  I've talk to some Zilla owners about this and they were blown away that installing the CR500 rod wasn't a must do in the HQ community.  Thoughts?