I say the head you have now will work just fine .When you get your bearing and thrust washers.Put it on and check the squish and see if its right or not.
From what I got from reading Jerry's post the water mod will work just fine on your quad. Or get a cool head and send it to Jerry or Carl for some TLC.
The water port mods done to his head will not be very effective because the holes are too large.
Let's call it "that head" because even though I'm in possession of it its anything but my head.
So if I end up going the cool head route cause I'm not too confident my head will ever make its way back to me, what's a good cc dome size to go with? Also could I run one dome for drag racing and swap it out for another dome for trail riding? O ringing a cool head about how much does that cost and has anyone ever o ringed their cylinder?
So if I end up going the cool head route cause I'm not too confident my head will ever make its way back to me, what's a good cc dome size to go with? Also could I run one dome for drag racing and swap it out for another dome for trail riding? O ringing a cool head about how much does that cost and has anyone ever o ringed their cylinder?
Why to you want to screw up your engine design by using the right head one day and the wrong head another day.
It is the total engine design: ports, pipe, reeds, carb head and ignition timing that determines what octane fuel your engine needs.
Just changing the compression ratio does not have a large influence on the octane rating that your engine needs unless you reduce the compression to the point that it makes power like a 250. If you reduce your compression ratio this much, your pipe and ports will be a mile out of tune with each other.
Most of this stuff about using different heads or domes so that you can have a engine that can run on any fuel began when the billett heads were first started. I am not sure if was a marketing campaign to sell you more domes after you bought a billet shell or if it was absolute ignorance about the intricate design and understanding of high performance two strokes on the part of the billet head industry.
Ok so that being said what would be a good dome cc size to use 62, 60, 58? Jerry I'm useless when it comes to dome sizes and compression ratios and Matt isn't even able to produce my head that I sent him so I don't really trust much of anything about what kind of porting was done to my cylinder. Really effed up in my engine builder selection to say the least.
I say the head you have now will work just fine .When you get your bearing and thrust washers.Put it on and check the squish and see if its right or not.
From what I got from reading Jerry's post the water mod will work just fine on your quad. Or get a cool head and send it to Jerry or Carl for some TLC.
The water port mods done to his head will not be very effective because the holes are too large.
I miss Read your post Jerry. I saw the holes were smaller in the pic of that head. That's why I thought that head would work . I don't know the size you need Buck. I started with a 22cc on my 250 which is the same as stock and had it work on, Which it isn't no 22cc now since the mod was done to it.
My Father's Day present arrived today! BRAAAAAAPPPPPP
Twist throttles slow you down !!!
Ok so that being said what would be a good dome cc size to use 62, 60, 58? Jerry I'm useless when it comes to dome sizes and compression ratios and Matt isn't even able to produce my head that I sent him so I don't really trust much of anything about what kind of porting was done to my cylinder. Really effed up in my engine builder selection to say the least.
The volume of the dome we use depends upon your cylinder length and head gasket thickness.
DP its a dual gasser so its thumb and twist!!
Jerry it's stock cylinder length bored to 87.5mm and if I ran a cool head I'd likely have it o ringed or have my cylinder o ringed if that's doable.
DP its a dual gasser so its thumb and twist!!
Jerry it's stock cylinder length bored to 87.5mm and if I ran a cool head I'd likely have it o ringed or have my cylinder o ringed if that's doable.
If you had the ears reinforced, the cylinder should be shorter if it was done right.
Buckeye---If it helps you out I have a head already properly modded by Allan At CT Racing ( he does SOLID work) that I will sell to you cheap for all the crap you have been through. I had been asking 85 + 15 bucks for the ride but I will sell it to you for $50 including shipping if your interested. It is listed in the for sale section. It is non o-ring with no mods to cooling holes. The squish has been properly cut and It does require race fuel at sea level and requires 50/50 mix at the 4500-5500 foot elevation I run.--quadman8,
Thanks Mike for the awesome offer I'll run it by my pops.
Got my billet thrust washers from Mr. Keller! Thanks Mitch!!! Was hoping you'd throw a set of o rings in with them and bill me for it gonna try to find o rings local and try to run this head I reckon.
Cussing at MHR every 5 seconds!!!
Also found out while putting the piston on I have a hot rods connecting rod not sure about the crank though didn't even notice that till now. Don't know if that's good or bad.
Ya your not the only one! Hes still pulling my leg that no good mother
!
So ordering some jets from Mr. Hall got some advice from him on tuning. In the picture what position do I have the clip on? Thanks
u would be one from leanest position
So is this the second position or first position?
Buckeye, not to de-rail your thread (great job btw, keep it up!), do you have any way to get in touch w/ Matt? E-mail and phone...no luck.... thanks man
He's getting his shop set up and is unreachable from what he told me. He's working to sort out the mess that Tiffany created for him and will be in communication with anyone that has parts there ASAP.
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