What Is The Best All Around Pipe For The LT250R

#75 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 20 Jan, 2013 12:14
I almost had the pwk tuned the mid range was a little lean.I did a bunch of wide open runs and never lock the motor up.I have to have a air leak, the idle would be fine and then it would jump 1000 to 1200 rpms from idle on me. After i would run it hard.Or after i would sit for a few seconds it would idle fine then jump up really high then sound zingy and lean..I built a leak down tester last night.Doing my test in a few minutes.But the quad would pull harder then it ever pulled .Then a couple run later same setup it wouldnt pull good at all.. I could not believe how fast Scp pipe got on its power.if i get it tuned right every quad on my block better watch out for the old lt250r!!!!
What carb you run Iceracer !!

#76 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 20 Jan, 2013 14:53
Done the leak down test. I started at 8 psi and after 10 minutes it went down to between 6 and 7.So from what i have read that is what you want.So im at complete loss now.Why it wouldnt idle right.Doesnt make sense to me.

#77 Reply
Posted by Iceracer on 20 Jan, 2013 16:42
I run a bored out TM 38. You want the thick bodied carb so if you want to bore it you can. You will need differnt brass that's really the only hard part to tuning it. It will want a 4.0 slide, a 6dk3 needle and 400+ main.

#78 Reply
Posted by Iceracer on 20 Jan, 2013 16:46
You idle problem is from the slide either being loose and or too high. If you have the slide too high you are not using the pilot circut. Set theslide height at 2-3 mm use a drill bit or wire to set it. Then adjust the pilot and air screw.

#79 Reply
Posted by Rainman56 on 20 Jan, 2013 16:47
What jetting pilot and main is the OP running?

#80 Reply
Posted by Iceracer on 20 Jan, 2013 18:06
Op??

#81 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 20 Jan, 2013 18:09
Quote from: Iceracer on 20 Jan, 2013 16:46
You idle problem is from the slide either being loose and or too high. If you have the slide too high you are not using the pilot circut. Set theslide height at 2-3 mm use a drill bit or wire to set it. Then adjust the pilot and air screw.
To set the slide do you pull the slack out of the cable and use the cable to lift it or do you use the air screw for the idle.I had the idle screw all the way out and my piolt was set at 1/ half turn.Cable was slacked.It would idle fine then if i reved it it would spike and didnt want to come down.Pwk was doing the same thing but on it when i would pull the choke it would raise the idle by alot untill it got rich. then fell off.It also would idle and the just shoot up for no reason.but only after i would run it hard it took its time to come back down..But not as bad.What year is your quad im running 91.I dont like the boot that goes from the airbox how it curves around the shock to the carb a pain in the butt to get the bigger carb on. i was running 38pwk 195 main dgl needle and 65 piolt.Stock carb was 35 piolt not sure on the needle 230 main

#82 Reply
Posted by Dezsled on 20 Jan, 2013 18:26
DGL needle would be way lean on my 250r, I had a DGH but it pinged low to mid...DGG solved the problem.

#83 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 20 Jan, 2013 19:01
I meant dgk in the carb

#84 Reply
Posted by Iceracer on 20 Jan, 2013 19:23
Look here.
http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/bartlett-racing/jetting-1007/new/#new
Should help figured Id write it once so I can reference it. Easier.

#85 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 21 Jan, 2013 16:39
I put the fmf back on and it was doing the same thing.No control of the idle.I put a 40 pilot jet inHas a 35 pilot in it It started to idle again fine.I was to lean on my piolt.Im going to order needles and some more jet for the 38 pwk and get it to work.I already have it and have a bunch of money in jets and parts for it. Also going to buy a zilla intake boot and run the stock cage and sell the rad valve.

#86 Reply
Posted by Rainman56 on 10 Feb, 2013 17:53
Any updates?

#87 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 12 Feb, 2013 14:40
The new jets and needles will be here Friday.I order them 2 mondays ago.The seller missed the payment and didnt send them when i paid.So im hoping to work on it some this weekend but its going to be really cold. So im hoping one day soon.I will get pic and videos soon!!

#88 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 22 Feb, 2013 19:29
Here is a couple pics of it on the quad.Still working on jetting but i was able to finally get the 38pwk to rich.so im going to back it down tomorrow.

#89 Reply
Posted by Rainman56 on 22 Feb, 2013 20:09
Nice looking quad.How close is the pipe to your leg while riding?Works shocks on the front?

#90 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 23 Feb, 2013 09:56
Thanks! My leg is kind a close but not to bad.Those are Ohlins fronts respringed and valved by Pep

#91 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 24 Feb, 2013 11:49
I took the pwk off.Im done with that carb untill i get my head mod done.Put the stocker back on.It ran so much better.Make the pipe super zippy in the low to mid randge.But the wierd thing is.I can go up to 240 main,it doesnt load up and choke its self out.But it is super lazy.To get it to pull hard i had to go down to a 200 main Almost the same as my Fmf! Im going to make a video in a little bit of some high speeds runs with it on!!

#92 Reply
Posted by WestTexasKing on 24 Feb, 2013 14:49
The TM38 from a zilla is another alternative for a 250 carb, all you have to do is buy a zilla intake boot (just make sure it's the right bolt pattern, 5 bolt for 87, 6 bolt for 88+).
The main and pilot jets you have for your stock TM will interchange too, though you're probably going to be running different sizes.

#93 Reply
Posted by Rainman56 on 24 Feb, 2013 16:40
A 38mm actually will fit in the stock boot without too much trouble and you,ll likely have to go richer
due to the lesser signal of the bigger carb.

#94 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 24 Feb, 2013 17:18
The problem that im i having is after wot 5th and 6th .When i close the throttle it get zinggy.untill the rpm come down.Ive tried bigger main and bigger piolts .The only thing i havent tried is a different needle.But it seems to pull hard from bottom to top.With the pwk on it was doing it.It used to only do it with the fmf when i had the 38 on it.After i think about it.The fmf was doing it to.Ever since i rebuilt the top end.I got my head shaved.It seems it being do it ever since i had that done.I never had checked the squish on my quad.Im doing it tomorrow anyways i got to get the measurement for Carl ,So he can do his thing to the head im going to be using.I wonder if its way out of spec.It didnt do it before i think about it.Im going to put a video up in a minute or 2 of me running it today.

#95 Reply
Posted by WestTexasKing on 24 Feb, 2013 17:57
Quote from: Rainman56 on 24 Feb, 2013 16:40
A 38mm actually will fit in the stock boot without too much trouble and you,ll likely have to go richer
due to the lesser signal of the bigger carb.

I've gone down that road, yes it'll fit without too much trouble, but if the intake boot is old it'll crack or tear, and if you leave the carb on long enough it'll eventually cause the boot to crack.
The zilla boot was designed for that size carb, so it'll fit without any problems and it won't stretch the boot out and cause it to crack prematurely.
Not only that, but the intake boot is larger and flows better.

#96 Reply
Posted by LT250RWV on 24 Feb, 2013 18:57
I was going to buy a new Zilla intake boot. But everyone told me it wouldn't let the carb line up to the. Air box intake. So I just bought a brand new lt 6bolt intake for. 250. I was looking at them and thought maybe the91to92 air box style would work with the Zilla boot on the lt250r. But any ideas on how. It gets zingy after the throttle shut after a wide open run?

#97 Reply
Posted by WestTexasKing on 24 Feb, 2013 19:13
Yeah, there is that to contend with.
I've never used an airbox with my LT's, just an open element filter.
I think the RM500 uses a straight intake boot with the same diameter, but it only works on an 87.
Another option is to get in touch with 500Fanatic and have him build a billet intake boot to your specs, they're pretty sweet.

Aside from that, you can use the stock boot, just keep an eye on it.
If that rubber cracks you'll have air leaks to deal with while you're tuning too.