What Is The Best All Around Pipe For The LT250R

• #50 Reply
  Posted by LT250RWV on 15 Jan, 2013 11:28
• I have some porting on mine .Im going to send a jug to iceracer and let him do his thing to it.I want one kind of mild and 1 wild.
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• #51 Reply
  Posted by RatTerrier on 15 Jan, 2013 15:05
• Oh yeah, I forgot I'm also runnin a cool head with a 22cc dome givin my 15:1 compression as well n I'm runnin 110 race gas @ 32:1 mixed with 927. So its makin some great power for me, which is great in the dunes where I ride.....and it smells delicious as well with the 927 and 110 lol.
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• #52 Reply
  Posted by LT250RWV on 15 Jan, 2013 17:57
• I run 110  and 93 half half.Guys on this pipe does the rubber spacer go up towards the pipe under the gas tank  or down on the stinger.Im having problems getting  the pipe on without hitting the gas tank and trying to line up the hole in the frame under the gas tank.This beast has no room!!
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• #53 Reply
  Posted by RatTerrier on 15 Jan, 2013 19:09
• Umm, rubber spacer?? 
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• #54 Reply
  Posted by Dezsled on 15 Jan, 2013 19:54
• Where's the pics?   
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• #55 Reply
  Posted by Quadster on 15 Jan, 2013 20:03
• Dont forget the heat tape on the bottom of the tank!
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• #56 Reply
  Posted by Iceracer on 15 Jan, 2013 20:26
• Do you have the rubber isolator with the stud on one or both sides.
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• #57 Reply
  Posted by Stpltn250r on 15 Jan, 2013 21:29
• On my 87 250 with a q pipe. I used the stock rubber isolator on the mount by the tank. Had two studs hanging out of it. And i say use a rubber mount on the rear mount for the silencer, like a stock zilla rubber isolator and spacer bushing.
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• #58 Reply
  Posted by LT250RWV on 16 Jan, 2013 00:50
• Quote from: Iceracer on 15 Jan, 2013 20:26

  Do you have the rubber isolator with the stud on one or both sides.
  

  Yes it what im talking about. Does it go up by the tank or on the silencer. My Threads are messed up under the tank where you connect the pipe to the frame. I tried to retap the thread but no luck with it. Iwill get that figured out today.Also another issue i have had is i have the stock grab bar with the 2 inch spacer welded to it. Makes the silencer stick out to far.But im going to cut that off flush.
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• #59 Reply
  Posted by LT250RWV on 16 Jan, 2013 16:26
• Put it on today.I used the stock carb to see if their was a difference.It has alot more topend for sure and mid is still really good.Just a little loss on the bottom but i havent got it jetted just right yet.Im going to get the stock right tomorrow and then put the 38 pwk on and get it right.Im just seeing what all work and work the best.But it looks good and sounds really good.alot a difference in sound from the FMF pipe and silencer.
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• #60 Reply
  Posted by RatTerrier on 16 Jan, 2013 18:25
• It's a lot different. Before I rebuilt n modded mine I just had the 39mm car with stock porting n stuff and I had a Pro Circuit pipe on it and it wouldn't pull near what the ported motor with the Shearer pipe on it does. I couldn't believe the difference!
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• #61 Reply
  Posted by WestTexasKing on 16 Jan, 2013 19:05
• Don't forget to tune your powervalve, there's extra power to be had when it's well adjusted!
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• #62 Reply
  Posted by LT250RWV on 16 Jan, 2013 22:37
• What is the ideal setting for power valve.Do you want it to shut sooner  or later.I did have to go up serval jets sizes.When i first took off it didnt have any power.Then went up and hit it in second came off the about 3 feet.
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• #63 Reply
  Posted by WestTexasKing on 17 Jan, 2013 02:41
• You want it to close as the pipe's tuned RPM is starting to hit.
  There is no specific setting that will work for everyone!
  Tons of different factors come into play, but a good starting point is an extra 1/4 turn from what you have now (assuming your PV is adjusted to stock settings).
  Kick it into high gear and lug the engine, give it full throttle so you can feel the engine making the power slowly, feel the dips and hesitations as it gets on the pipe.
  Adjust the PV a little bit and see what it does to your powerband, you'll start feeling it getting smoother if you're going the right way and lose power going the other way (or a step/hesitation/dip in power).
  Tweak it all the way to 1/8th or even 1/16th turn, because any more than that and you won't be able to tell the difference in adjustments.
  
  Be sure you tune the powervalve AFTER you tune the carb, full throttle runs for extended durations aren't good if you're running lean!
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• #64 Reply
  Posted by LT250RWV on 18 Jan, 2013 05:20
• Bigest issue im having is the pipe has top end but it act like it doesnt  charge it self onto the pipe in the midrange.Doesnt feel like its coming onto the pipe untill the veryend at topend.Basically no midrange or low end.Im going to play with my jetting some more today.
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• #65 Reply
  Posted by Iceracer on 18 Jan, 2013 06:51
• sent you a pm, Sounds like the carb is off, I was never entirely happy with the way the Keihin ran on my machines, with all the time I spent I never got It just rite, always close but pushing a dead spot around.
   Also with the combination of parts your running you might be happier with boring your stock carb a little, the trail port, the rad valve, both of those are restrictive and Like a little less carb,
  
  With a Rad valve and big carb you get a pretty bad mismatch in the intake tract, that a carb wont deal with well. The carb should be the smallest part in that portion of the intake, not just after it in the throat of the rad valve. There should  should only one restriction and that should be at the needle for correct carburation.
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• #66 Reply
  Posted by LT250RWV on 18 Jan, 2013 20:47
• I got it to run pretty good today with the pwk but just not right.the pipe has a bunch of potential.The 38mm gave more topend and rev .I put the stock back on.I couldnt believe how much low end and midrange i got from it.But now its kind of flat on the top.Also i change power valve to be stiffer made a huge difference.Im going to put my fmf back untill i get the mikuni 38mm.Also have you do my head work and porting and change my cage to something else.I know i havent had as much top end since the rad valve.But it made huge difference with fmf setup.But what would be the best carb for this.Minkuii 38 tm or something else.I want to stay with something that is pretty easy to tune and not have to change the jetting for every little weather condition.Kiehin is just to picky for me.
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• #67 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 18 Jan, 2013 21:12
• You are going to put the FMF back on?!
  
   
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• #68 Reply
  Posted by LT250RWV on 19 Jan, 2013 10:31
• yea for now untill i have Iceracer setup my motor.unless i can get running better today.Dont get me wrong its running pretty good.I think the people i had do my port work messed it up  and they hurt it more then helping  it .I dont think the Rad valve is helping either.But the pipe has alot of potential in it.If i could just get it tuned or find out what my problem is.Im thinking i might have a airleak or something wrong in the electrical system.Something is not right with my bike.It should be so hard to tune a 38mm carb.I never could get it to run right with fmf.I got another parts quad might be taken the cdi off it and other parts and just swap them to see if their a difference.
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• #69 Reply
  Posted by Yuzuha32 on 19 Jan, 2013 10:44
• tm 38 is the way to go. i went through 4 carbs making my decision stocker, lectron 38, pwk 39 and ended up with a modded tm38. ask carl he has the hot setup for the tm38 and it seems to run much more reliably than the PWK.
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• #70 Reply
  Posted by GrkGuy on 19 Jan, 2013 17:05
• so the tm38 is really that much better than all the others.
  i run a pwk air striker on mine and i thought it was a huge improvment over the stock carb.
  what about a zilla carb on the 250, anyone run of them. 
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• #71 Reply
  Posted by Heminutt on 19 Jan, 2013 18:14
• a zilla carb is the same as a tm38
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• #72 Reply
  Posted by Rainman56 on 19 Jan, 2013 21:41
• I,m running a 38mm Mikuni TMX carb which works good as well.Hoping to try the Lectron a try come spring.
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• #73 Reply
  Posted by Iceracer on 20 Jan, 2013 06:50
• If you have a Tmx that runs good you are lucky, they are a similar design to a keihin and you must of found the rite needle. The midrange can be worse than keihin to dial on those.
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• #74 Reply
  Posted by Rainman56 on 20 Jan, 2013 12:03
• Yep,the midrange was the toughest to get dialed in.Had to go to a leaner needle from the stock Honda that the carb came with/off of.Far greater selection of Honda needles available than the standard Mikuni ones.Trouble is they,re more expensive due to being factory Honda and the numbers are completely different.
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