I have 2 crappy 34 tm's here. One is jb welded back together(runs fine) the other I got for 10 bucks and free shipping.
I see that 35mm hole saws sell for $7.00 lol where as a 36mm is about $50. The 35mm is 1 3/8"........A standard size for hole saws.......
Also the carb splits in half vertically when the bolts are removed, So I see I DO NOT have remove/press the brass needle guide in the center. It can remain intact while boring. Of course it will not be perfectly straight but much easier!
So in a nutshell I am convinced it is a simple thing to achieve. The issue will be sorting out The idle circuit problems from change in flow etc etc etc etc
If you guys could help me sort the needle and jetting/ fuel circuit stuff out keenly, I am ready to go.
Thanks
I have 2 crappy 34 tm's here. One is jb welded back together(runs fine) the other I got for 10 bucks and free shipping.
I see that 35mm hole saws sell for $7.00 lol where as a 36mm is about $50. The 35mm is 1 3/8"........A standard size for hole saws.......
Also the carb splits in half vertically when the bolts are removed, So I see I DO NOT have remove/press the brass needle guide in the center. It can remain intact while boring. Of course it will not be perfectly straight but much easier!
So in a nutshell I am convinced it is a simple thing to achieve. The issue will be sorting out The idle circuit problems from change in flow etc etc etc etc
If you guys could help me sort the needle and jetting/ fuel circuit stuff out keenly, I am ready to go.
Thanks
no offense, don't want to stir the pot, but i read you have access to a cnc, can make all kinds of fancy parts, read university text for fun, and your going to use a hole saw to bore out a carb???
now you could make these great parts i don't know never seen anything, not saying you don't, but you don't use a hole saw to bore out a carb. you should be smarter than that. if you do that your gonna have more problems than jetting. your reading the wrong text.
Yeah I'd use a Mikita plunge router!
I have 2 crappy 34 tm's here. One is jb welded back together(runs fine) the other I got for 10 bucks and free shipping.
I see that 35mm hole saws sell for $7.00 lol where as a 36mm is about $50. The 35mm is 1 3/8"........A standard size for hole saws.......
Also the carb splits in half vertically when the bolts are removed, So I see I DO NOT have remove/press the brass needle guide in the center. It can remain intact while boring. Of course it will not be perfectly straight but much easier!
So in a nutshell I am convinced it is a simple thing to achieve. The issue will be sorting out The idle circuit problems from change in flow etc etc etc etc
If you guys could help me sort the needle and jetting/ fuel circuit stuff out keenly, I am ready to go.
Thanks
no offense, don't want to stir the pot, but i read you have access to a cnc, can make all kinds of fancy parts, read university text for fun, and your going to use a hole saw to bore out a carb???
now you could make these great parts i don't know never seen anything, not saying you don't, but you don't use a hole saw to bore out a carb. you should be smarter than that. if you do that your gonna have more problems than jetting. your reading the wrong text.
yeah just what he said, Thanks shawn
Ouch! If you do decide to do the holesaw route, take pictures & post them up. I gotta see this.
Hmm well somebody has a bad attitude towards advancement in lt's. If you don't understand fully what im stating then perhaps don't invest in a reply.
I do not have a cnc machine of any kind sorry. sheesh im not paying any attention, I could care less what you guys think. Im here to humour myself clearly. The wind blew me here.
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Thank you anyways
I hear- wow! look what's happening with mostly hand tools. So Cheers!
Im dropping pictures here tmrw early evening eastern standard time if you are really that upset.
if you want to bore out a carb with a hole saw go ahead. we're not stoping you, its just not how you do it. a dremel and sanding drum would come out better.
i don't have a bad attitude, i hardly post anything, think the last thing i posted that was negitive was about Q 5 years ago. you just come off as the smartest guy and your asking a stupid question. your gonna get this kind of reply.
ok ok. I accept that mostly. no problem.
Im just saying that aluminum can be hole sawed nicely with a drill press. Add a little water and it saws really really nice.
one more thing though I disagree completely that a dremel can be as good or efficiently fast at this specific carb.
You better be awfully accurate with the hole saw. My TM38 was bored to 42.5mm and is extremely thin in spots. I just can't see the teeth on the hole saw not ripping through the engine side of the bore. Just my .02
Thanks . I will be as carefull as I can, a dremel and flat file will have to take care of the rest.
I am still just thinking outloud but I believe your taper bored +2 will be a far better than a taperbore 38 with only +1mm.
I think that carbs work very well STOCK, but if you must customize the carb bore, it is best done to ACHIEVE A RESULT.
A 1mm overbore like I am planning is almost a waste of time perhaps. My butt dyno will feel nothing maybe. And in the same time, I can maybe destroy some of the great stock effieciency felt near the low end
Then again, its just a 34mm carb with smoking low end for this bike. Needed upgrade I state firmly. I feel that I will get to this in the next few weeks then I will wait to borrow an EGT, RAD guage or monitor the air/fuel mixture. Atleast for the first couple hours to confirm I wont melt the top end.
Please everyone relax. stop the inner turmoil. Flick on some Bill Hicks. Then help me find a professional who bores and jets carb circuits for less than 200 bucks with LT250r engine warranty ideas for unhappy customers. IF my engine blows up, it best be me that does the damage. Not Some magic bean salesman
Honestly, I would like to see it happen. Being a 34mm, they are fairly cheap a plentiful (I have 4 or so). I can see a drill press having a few MM variance with a hole saw on the end of it. Trial and error is the corner stone of success! I say try it. Chances are the idle and transition port are going to get mushed over, but if your savvy you might be able to open them up. more .02
tony at T&N, 40 bucks as long as you carb is still in spec.
T&N ? really? Im going msg you so u will explain! thanks!