Author Topic: Bump Steer Mod (Read 16477 times)

MD2smoker · « **Reply #25 on:** January 29, 2013, 10:12:19 am »

Pretty sure they are stock tie rod ends. So far everything on this bike has been stock. Maybe ill try some thinner nuts. Not really a fan of riding with no cotter pins in there.

JayTater · « **Reply #26 on:** January 29, 2013, 10:17:26 am »

Yeah, aside from clipping, or going full out custom frame, there's no real fix. Maybe I should just build a rack and pinion setup LOL

Bquad · « **Reply #27 on:** February 27, 2013, 05:46:22 pm »

European cars, like audi and BMW use a stud lug that is 14mmx1.50. This is what I'm using to replace the lower ball joint bolt. I coulnt find a hardware shop that stocked anything, then I checked lug nuts and it much easer to get and pending how patient the guy behind the parts counter is, you'll be able to find the length you need. I think I ended up with an old A4 lug

Mitch Keller · « **Reply #28 on:** March 02, 2013, 02:28:19 pm »

Would heim joints help at all?

http://amstarmanufacturing.com/images/Pro_X_Tie_Rods_Yamaha_Blue.jpg

El Diablo · « **Reply #29 on:** March 02, 2013, 07:27:38 pm »

If you wanted to be custom, then heim or rod ends would work. Just remember to buy 2 right handed shank pieces as well as 2 left handed shank pieces as well as the appropriate jam nuts. The best prices I have found so far is from Speedway Motors.

Stpltn250r · « **Reply #30 on:** March 02, 2013, 08:10:52 pm »

My metal tech arms are all heim joints. Where the arms bolt to the frame and to the spindle. 3 places of adjustment per a arm. The possibilities are ENDLESS!!!!

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #31 on:** May 21, 2013, 07:35:53 pm »

So my pro x American star tie rods mean I shouldn't have to do anything to correct bump steer? I'm running Mitch's camber spacers to correct the camber.

Dezsled · « **Reply #32 on:** May 21, 2013, 08:16:57 pm »

With everything bolted up initial adjustments completed w/o the shocks cycle the front suspension to see how much bump steer your getting. When I checked mine at full droop it toed in, at half travel it was toed straight, when at full suspension compression it was toed in again.

The z400 spindles didn't have any toe out going on throughout the travel

BadMoonRacing500 · « **Reply #33 on:** May 21, 2013, 11:34:54 pm »

Quote from: Buckeye513 on May 21, 2013, 07:35:53 pm

So my pro x American star tie rods mean I shouldn't have to do anything to correct bump steer? I'm running Mitch's camber spacers to correct the camber.

No, you should move the steerings arms mounted to spindle from being mounted on top of the tab on the spindle, to being mounted on the bottom of the tab. Look at the spindles and steering arms you'll see what I mean. It makes the tie rod run nearly parallel to the arms, reducing the bump steer significantly. The mod can be done on 250's also by swapping the steering arm from one side to the other, so instead of the bend going up, they should be going down, again look at your steering arms and you''ll understand.

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 22, 2013, 05:52:57 am »

Arite, I done what BadMoon said in the post above mine and I got a ridiculous amount of tie rod end binding. Anyone have any idear why it was doing it? I put it all back stock so now I gotta fight to get the front end aligned again..

LT250RWV · « **Reply #35 on:** May 22, 2013, 08:12:26 am »

I had the same problem with mine as your having.Turn out my knuckles were bent.Replaced them and got ASR tie rods and it turns super easy with no bump steer. But check your knuckles when your flipping them from side to side lay them on top of each other and see if they lay flat with each other or if their is any bends. After that is fine, you will have to redo or toe in. Hope this helps Chuck!

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #36 on:** May 22, 2013, 08:38:35 am »

When you say knuckles,,, are you talking about the horn piece that bolts on to the spindle that the tie rod attaches to or are you talking about the spindle itself,,,?

Pretty sure you're talking about the little horn piece but just wanna make sure lol

And thank you!!

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #37 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:20:46 am »

Badmoon since I have the ASR tie rods with heim joints can't I just put my outter tie rod on through the bottom of the horn/knuckle/connecting point on the spindle and get almost the same result?

LT250RWV · « **Reply #38 on:** May 22, 2013, 11:07:32 am »

Im taking about the peice of metal that goes to the spindal. It has 2 bolt that hold it on each side,then your tie rod bolts to it. You have to flip them from side to side so they run upside down instead of up. but they get bent rather easy.Just check to see if they are bent.That was the problem on mine. When i done the mod it blind pretty good. Then i got looking at the and they were bent . So i replaced them and then got new tie rod and my quad truns really good now.

LT250RWV · « **Reply #39 on:** May 22, 2013, 11:11:39 am »

part number 24 and part 23 Chuckie

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #40 on:** May 22, 2013, 11:12:06 am »

That's what I thought you meant!! Arite ill check it out,, thank you very much!!!

One more quick question: Does the horn bolt the the top or bottom of the spindle after flipping? I had it on the bottom of the spindle and the tie rod on the top of the horn

LT250RWV · « **Reply #41 on:** May 22, 2013, 11:14:26 am »

You put the bolt the same way it was from the factory just flip the tie rod peice and bolt it the same way the bolt goes down threw the top. Just flip and bolt.

Stpltn250r · « **Reply #42 on:** December 16, 2013, 09:04:24 pm »

So the bump steer mod is to just unbolt the steering arms from on top of the spindle and put them to where they bolt underneath or do you flip them from left to right and right to left like the 250? Also add a shim to the inner tie rod at the steering stem.

And the camber mod is to add grind the tangs off the lower a arms and install a shim. Than set toe?

What is the size shim for an 88 zilla?

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #43 on:** December 16, 2013, 09:14:06 pm »

Stpltn250r, All you do for the bump steer mod is to swap left with right then flip the steering horns upside down so they curve downward.

And for the camber mod you could just buy these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LT500-LT250R-BILLET-5mm-SLIP-ON-CAMBER-SHIMS-Quadzilla-/300905417743?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460f5c4c0f&vxp=mtr

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #44 on:** December 16, 2013, 09:31:18 pm »

Here's my 88 with Mitch's camber shims. Alignment isn't set but you get the idea of the camber it gives the front end.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #45 on:** December 16, 2013, 09:58:01 pm »

That is a pretty sweet looking front end. now i'm wishing that I had a LT500

LT250RWV · « **Reply #46 on:** December 16, 2013, 10:09:35 pm »

Here the front of my 91 with +2 a arms bumb ster mod done. Dont need camber shims anymore since I can adjust camber with upperballjoint.

Mitch Keller · « **Reply #47 on:** January 14, 2014, 01:50:31 pm »

How often does the OEM Steel Bracket Tie Rod Bend? If steel bends why would you want to go to Aluminum? Even High Alloy would have me nervous, maybe chromoly, this would be a project for SB Designs

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #48 on:** January 14, 2014, 02:08:21 pm »

Mitch aren't you aware that aluminum isn't for use on suspension components? There's a reason they didn't use that chit from the factory to quote the legend in his own mind! Lol

BadMoonRacing500 · « **Reply #49 on:** January 14, 2014, 03:14:23 pm »

Proper way to do bump mod on a zilla. Just take the steering arm and unbolt it from top of spindle and mount it to the bottom of the spindle. You do NOT need to swap sides on a zilla. It will look like this when done.

The 250 you swap the steering arm from 1 side 2 the other. Instead of being bent up the bend will be going down. Mount in the stock location. Don't forget cotter pins!!!!

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Author Topic: Bump Steer Mod (Read 16477 times)

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