Author Topic: Bump Steer Mod (Read 14274 times)

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #50 on:** January 14, 2014, 03:24:59 pm »

Some guy on my Facebook group said that according to Q "madgoonracing's" just flip the horn to the bottom is unsafe and will cause the bolts to sheer. So from what I gather you should replace the steel steering horn with aluminum and not flip it... According to the legend in his own mind that is...

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #51 on:** January 14, 2014, 04:26:30 pm »

Hummmm not a fan of aluminum on my high stress parts

From the pics that BadMoonRacing500 put up Im thinking that someone put a zilla horn on my 250 and left the other, because one of mine is perfectly straight like that

why could the PO of my bike not have been a Dumb ****..

BadMoonRacing500 · « **Reply #52 on:** January 14, 2014, 04:59:00 pm »

I've seen zilla arms on 250's also.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #53 on:** January 14, 2014, 05:08:47 pm »

Would it be beneficial at all? It seems to defeat the entire purpose of doing the mod unless I relocate it to be under the shackle like the 500s I've been debating on picking up a 250 one to replace it, but its tough to do that when I'm saving cash to complete the motor for it. Or should I just get another 500 to replace my 250 one?

Dangerouspower · « **Reply #54 on:** January 14, 2014, 07:24:23 pm »

Supposedly flipping switching them does not completely fix the bump steer to its full potential. RK does a few things to bring down the bump steer. He also does different sizes camber shims not to rip on Mitch's but the one size fits all. I can't believe I'm saying this but I'm looking forward to get the camber shims and bump steer mods from a q for a stock front end.

GrkGuy · « **Reply #55 on:** January 14, 2014, 07:26:01 pm »

i thought you had to flip a tie rod end too.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #56 on:** January 14, 2014, 07:43:13 pm »

How much did that cost you DP? Mitch's shims are great and it's true one size doesn't fit all but you can take the 5mm starting point and grind material off till you get the amount of camber you want. It also doesn't involve grinding the tabs off the lower a arms.

LT250RWV · « **Reply #57 on:** January 14, 2014, 07:51:32 pm »

Quote from: Buckeye513 on January 14, 2014, 03:24:59 pm

Some guy on my Facebook group said that according to Q "madgoonracing's" just flip the horn to the bottom is unsafe and will cause the bolts to sheer. So from what I gather you should replace the steel steering horn with aluminum and not flip it... According to the legend in his own mind that is...
you mean Qs group. Flase dyno reports people copping his pipes and their best Iin the world. Untill he went up against hpr pipe and bike (Y)Also how someone should post this at our site since we have are own input On this subject. Come on. We try to help but he always out for a buck and smack talk2c

Dangerouspower · « **Reply #58 on:** January 14, 2014, 08:12:32 pm »

I'll get ya a price shortly Derrick. Why do I need to figure out the camber ? I just want to buy ones already done. You say and you don't have to grind off the lower tabs yet you have to grind down the shims to get a perfect camber ? Which seems more reasonable taking them off a few times to get the right camber and taking the time to figure out what will work best or grinding off a tab and be done with it ? Not looking for a pissing match but honestly now which sounds to be the superior shim ?

Dezsled · « **Reply #59 on:** January 14, 2014, 08:25:47 pm »

He should start another site, like he was asked in the comments in one of the vids.

Cool to see he's enjoying what he's doing.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #60 on:** January 14, 2014, 08:35:27 pm »

Quote from: LT250RWV on January 14, 2014, 07:51:32 pm

Quote from: Buckeye513 on January 14, 2014, 03:24:59 pm
Some guy on my Facebook group said that according to Q "madgoonracing's" just flip the horn to the bottom is unsafe and will cause the bolts to sheer. So from what I gather you should replace the steel steering horn with aluminum and not flip it... According to the legend in his own mind that is...
you mean Qs group. Flase dyno reports people copping his pipes and their best Iin the world. Untill he went up against hpr pipe and bike (Y)Also how someone should post this at our site since we have are own input On this subject. Come on. We try to help but he always out for a buck and smack talk2c

No Brian I mean my Facebook group, this guy was a member of Q's group but got kicked for apparently making a stink about a price quote Q gave him.

DP I have Mitch's shims and something that locks in like the ball joint is designed to do the way Mitch's shims do seems a lot safer and more reliable then having essentially washers pushing the ball joint out from the a arm to create the proper camber. This also doesn't address the space now created causing less threads to be in the female end of the ball joint. DP if you want to continue doing business with Q I'd suggest you keep your price to yourself cause according to this guy on my Facebook group he got booted from Q's group for making a quoted price public I'm pretty sure. According to him Q keeps all his prices through PM's only.

Mitch Keller · « **Reply #61 on:** January 14, 2014, 10:45:25 pm »

Quote from: Dangerouspower on January 14, 2014, 07:24:23 pm

Supposedly flipping switching them does not completely fix the bump steer to its full potential. RK does a few things to bring down the bump steer. He also does different sizes camber shims not to rip on Mitch's but the one size fits all. I can't believe I'm saying this but I'm looking forward to get the camber shims and bump steer mods from a q for a stock front end.

I take no offense at all, I have sold over 50 sets so farof teh Camber Shims with hear nothing but positive reviews, still desiding to continue making them, lol I was kinda done until RK video popped up today, si I called for another batch to be quoted, I will be posting if any changes should be made.

GrkGuy · « **Reply #62 on:** January 15, 2014, 07:10:46 am »

the only reason Q is mad is cause mitch got his hand in his pocket.
you guys need to understand, if it not from Q is not any good...

Mitch Keller · « **Reply #63 on:** January 15, 2014, 07:17:04 am »

Quote from: GrkGuy on January 15, 2014, 07:10:46 am

the only reason Q is mad is cause mitch got his hand in his pocket.
you guys need to understand, if it not from Q is not any good...

Q can always buy my shims at Wholesale and resell as his own

Q2W · « **Reply #64 on:** January 15, 2014, 08:40:49 am »

Quote from: BadMoonRacing500 on January 14, 2014, 03:14:23 pm

Proper way to do bump mod on a zilla. Just take the steering arm and unbolt it from top of spindle and mount it to the bottom of the spindle. You do NOT need to swap sides on a zilla. It will look like this when done.

Would this make it worse? I thought the idea was to make the tie rods more parallel?

GrkGuy · « **Reply #65 on:** January 15, 2014, 10:00:40 am »

for some reason i thought you just flipped the tie rod so it comes up from the bottom

MD2smoker · « **Reply #66 on:** January 15, 2014, 11:02:21 am »

I played with a couple different things on my 500, pretty sure i wound up just putting the
Tie rod end on the bottom of the horn and re setting my toe. I know my tie rods are
Parallel to my a arms. My only concern was if a rock or something could more easily
Damage the rod end hanging below the horn like that. Then i looked at my YFZ and saw
The rod end was on the bottom too. I figured if it survived 7 years of abuse on my yamaha
Then it would be ok on the zilla.

Mitch Keller · « **Reply #67 on:** January 15, 2014, 11:51:53 am »

Did you see Q's Video, his Aluminum bracket looked like it would lower or raise that tie rod ball joint at a hell of an angle?

Dezsled · « **Reply #68 on:** January 15, 2014, 11:53:27 am »

I'd want those aluminum brackets heat treated

MD2smoker · « **Reply #69 on:** January 15, 2014, 11:57:59 am »

Which video shows his brackets? Looks like most of his vids are
Q riding other guys quads up and down his street.

Dezsled · « **Reply #70 on:** January 15, 2014, 12:01:59 pm »

Two were posted recently

Mitch Keller · « **Reply #71 on:** January 15, 2014, 12:09:17 pm »

Guess its the latest one, on Pegs and bump steer, If you have a welder or know a welder you can modify your pegs way cheaper.
bead blasted, cut, dropped down 1" back 0.375"
from OEM position, with a Mitch Proof support gusset to keep from bending.

BadMoonRacing500 · « **Reply #72 on:** January 15, 2014, 12:38:34 pm »

Quote from: Q2W on January 15, 2014, 08:40:49 am

Quote from: BadMoonRacing500 on January 14, 2014, 03:14:23 pm
Proper way to do bump mod on a zilla. Just take the steering arm and unbolt it from top of spindle and mount it to the bottom of the spindle. You do NOT need to swap sides on a zilla. It will look like this when done.

Would this make it worse? I thought the idea was to make the tie rods more parallel?

No,if you look at them stock the tie rod runs level, which is not parallel to the a-arms. Lowering the mount allows them to sit more parallel with the a-arm. It doesn't completly do away with the bump, but reduces it to a minimum. I've done the mod on 250's and 500's and there is a definate reduction in bumpsteer and an increase in corning abillity, it also won't hi-side near as easy. Q saying this is wrong makes me laugh, because it's how he taught us to do it on the 250's and 500's years ago on the old site. Now that he can't make money off it, it's wrong... Mitch you better keep making shims, i'll need a few sets soon.

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #73 on:** January 15, 2014, 01:48:23 pm »

Ok so on the 250's you straighten the tab out and mount it n the bottom of the spindle ear? use some washers to take up the gap?

BadMoonRacing500 · « **Reply #74 on:** January 15, 2014, 02:04:57 pm »

Quote from: Chuckie25 on January 15, 2014, 01:48:23 pm

Ok so on the 250's you straighten the tab out and mount it n the bottom of the spindle ear? use some washers to take up the gap?

No, just take the steering arm from one side and mount it on the other and vica versa. Instead of the bend going up, it will be going down. Mount it in the stock position.

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Author Topic: Bump Steer Mod (Read 14274 times)

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