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Yeah Matt is working to make it right and find my head.
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Pictures of the dome in the head I recieved.
Edit: added a picture of the dome of my head, notice the difference in the coolant ports. I guess that's the difference between a head stamped EK-1 and EK-2 mine was EK-2. -
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Doesn't look to have been cut much unless the pits were really bad
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No clue what it might have looked like previously because its not mine.
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The head doesn't look cut much, if any like Chuckie stated.
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Great to hear things are being taken care of ....
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The more I think about it I'm pretty sure the head I have might be a 250 head because the dome size compared to my original picture of my 500 head and the dome size of the head I have now. It also fits on my cylinder but my cylinder lip has like 1-2mm all the way around of over hang (where the head is to small to match up with the edges of my cylinder).
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The more I think about it I'm pretty sure the head I have might be a 250 head because the dome size compared to my original picture of my 500 head and the dome size of the head I have now. It also fits on my cylinder but my cylinder lip has like 1-2mm all the way around of over hang (where the head is to small to match up with the edges of my cylinder).
A 250 head will not fit the 500-bolt pattern. The outside diameter of the head gets smaller as the head gasket surface is machined. Measure the thickness of the head where the head nuts seat. A stock head is about .800" thick at this point. I do not like to use heads that will be thinner than about .675" at this point when they are finished.
Small pits on the surface of the combustion chamber are not uncommon and are nothing to worry about. The small pits are from impurities and gas bubbles in the casting. Some head castings are worst than others. Occasionally we encounter a large pit that was below the original surface when porting a cylinder or machining a head.. Most of the time we can weld up the pit. I have had to throw away a couple of heads that could not be repaired.
The pictures show some discoloration and what appears to be coolant stains or rubber remnants from prior usage in the o-ring grooves. “ Freshly" machined surfaces will usually have a bright shinny look and not stained or have the dull look like the head in the picture.
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Ok well I figured that 250 theory was probably wrong. What explains the difference between the two heads coolant ports or water jackets or whatever they're called? Why is the o ringed head have way more small holes and my head has large opening with only two small holes?
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Ok well I figured that 250 theory was probably wrong. What explains the difference between the two heads coolant ports or water jackets or whatever they're called? Why is the o ringed head have way more small holes and my head has large opening with only two small holes?
They have been welded up and re-drilled. -
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The modification is to mimic the passageways like the oem head gasket did. The restriction in coolant flow allows the coolant to stay in the passageway longer to extract the heat out of the cylinder/head.
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Thanks Jerry and Dez! Now why does the o ringed heads dome look so much smaller than my heads dome?
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Their was a difference in the heads for the years, same is for the 250 the e 1 has smaller done usally came on a 87 e2 had a larger dome that came on the later years. I have different head for my 250. My 87 had the small dome and my 91 has the larger dome and my 88 has the larger dome. It is the way Suzuki done them.I dont know why they change them.
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Optical illusion? Or how many brews have you had?
Your digital calipers is your friend, those pesky o ring recesses messing with your mind!
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I just want Buckeye to finish this damn build so he can ride his Zilla!!!
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!!
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No shiznit Rider414!!!
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The modification is to mimic the passageways like the oem head gasket did. The restriction in coolant flow allows the coolant to stay in the passageway longer to extract the heat out of the cylinder/head.
Reducing the size of some of the coolant passageways between the cylinder and head forces more coolant to flow around the sides of the cylinder and enter the head near the rear of the cylinder. If the head gasket or some of the coolant passage ways did not force the water to take another path, coolant would enter the cylinder on the right side of the exhaust port and go straight up into the head outlet and return to the radiator.
Keeping the coolant in the passageways longer does not extract more heat from the head and cylinder. It reduces the amount of heat that can flow from the head and cylinder to the coolant because the coolant becomes slightly hotter and closer to the same temperature as the cylinder when the flow rate is reduced.
Heat always flows from a hot body to a cooler body. If both bodies are the same temperature heat transfer WILL NOT OCCUR. Increasing the DIFFERENCE in temperature between two bodies or substances increases the quantity of heat transferred from the hot body to the cold body. Heat is transferred by conduction, convection and radiation.
Examples:
Conduction occurs when you heat one end of a metal bar and a short time later the other end of the metal bar gets hot. Heat is conducted from one end to the other. Heat transfer by conduction travels at a speed that depends upon the coefficient of conductivity. Metals that conduct heat very well usually conduct electricity very well.
Heat transfer by radiation is occurring when you instantly feel heat being emitted from a very hot surface before the air space between you and the hot object has had time to rise. Heat transfer by radiation travels at the speed of light.
Convective heat transfer requires a hot body and some type of gas or liquid flowing over the surface to carry away heat. Convective heat transfer gets more complicated because it simultaneously involves conduction and radiation.
Convective heat transfer depends primarily upon the velocity of the medium flowing over a hot surface. Air flowing through the cooling fins of an air-cooled engine is an example of convective heat transfer. If we increase the velocity of air flowing THROUGH the fins, more heat is removed from the engine.
I probably should not go into heat transfer any deeper because it took those of us that are engineers at least two semesters of thermodynamics and one semester of fluid mechanics, to grasp and try to master some to of the concepts of heat transfer. Before we could take thermo and fluid mechanics and we had to take 5 semesters of high-level math.
I can possibly field some basic questions as long as it doesn't require some of the above prerequisites for one to be able to understand the concept I am trying to convey.
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So, faster moving coolant in the Zilla engine. Good or bad? No explanation needed.
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So, faster moving coolant in the Zilla engine. Good or bad? No explanation needed.
Stock coolant flow rate has always been good enough for the way I build the Zillas.
If the velocity of the coolant flowing over surfaces inside the water jacket is too high it could create hot spots where the flow detaches from the surface as it flow around corners or ill shaped surfaces. -
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I stand corrected...
The explanation I gave was told to me from a team Hon#% rider... Thanks jerry for the straightening out
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Well Buckeye, are you using that head or what is going on with your build. Have you started to put it back together.
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At a stand still waiting on 99 rm wrist pin bearing and billet thrust washers. Don't want to use this head because of the water port mods and the decking. If I don't have a resolutions from MHR I will probably be going the route of a cool head not sure in cc of dome and all that though and would then have to have the cool head o ringed or get a head gasket. Basically unless I get my head back o ringed and cut for proper squish my build will probably be held up for another month or so which is effing phenomenal!!!
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500's are meant to be worked on, not ridden LOL.
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True that man!
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I say the head you have now will work just fine .When you get your bearing and thrust washers.Put it on and check the squish and see if its right or not.
From what I got from reading Jerry's post the water mod will work just fine on your quad. Or get a cool head and send it to Jerry or Carl for some TLC. -