can someone explain all the diff types and differences between em. if not i can google it but surely im not the only one wondering about plugs

Lots of opinions out there for plugs.  I'm running the cheap B8ES copper core non-resistor plugs, gapped at .020; with a 5k resistor spark plug cap.

Some basic info (little internet research):

BR8ES

B= 14 mm thread diameter
R= Resistor Plug (no 'R' = Non-resistor)
8= heat range (9 cooler, 7 hotter)
E= 19 mm thread reach
S= Plug core

Cores:
S= 2.1mm copper electrode
G= 1.2mm fine wire nickel alloyed/center electrode
GV= gold polladium electrode for racing use
V= 1.2mm fine wire platinum electrode
VX= .7mm high performance platinum electrode
IX= .6mm fine wire iridium electrode

Can somebody knowledgeable chime in on pro's & con's of running the different core plugs (S, IX, etc) different heat ranged plugs (7,8,9), non-resistor plug w/ non resistor cap, resistor cap w/resistor plug, indexing plug benefits (if any)?   For quads in general and the 2-stroke zilla specifically.

I've read that a 9 heat range plug (colder) is Ok if you are racing under W.O. all the time and a 7 heat range plug (hotter) is OK if you putt around and don't use much/any full throttle.  Idea is only run the hotter plug to keep from fouling out your plug.  Personally I think the B8ES/BR8ES plug is the right one for the zilla and adjust your jetting to your quad/environment... but I'm no expert.

I have been running the B8ES on my LT250 for 23 years and now on the 500 for almost a year.  It lights off the mixture just fine and I have never had a problem with fouling them. Cheap and reliable in these machines, for general riding anyway.  I am not much of a racer.

I run BR9ES in everything but I run good ignition on all my bikes. Small tip plugs require less spark energy so if a small tip plug works better for you chances are your ignition in week.

Well. Not really a good ignition out that is bolt on ready for the lt500 yet.

There is a PVL set up. But when you set it up for whatever you need you max lead timing at, say 15* like stock timing is at 5500rpm. That would mean around 10* advanced btdc to get 15* at 5500rpm. That would equal 10* start up timing. PVL has a built in timing curve and the only way to change it is the intalled seeting at a certain measurement from tdc. Im probably off but you get the point. The initial timing is so high, it kicks your ankle back through your shoulder. Sure you could tame it down to get it to start, but why sacrifice power and timing just to start the bike?

Some can be retrofited to work. Some say the lt500 stock ignition works very well, but some guys would like to change a little here and there.

The MSD 4217 is what I have on my liger. I know its not a zilla anymore but still has been adapted to work without modifying cases. Just a different stator plate and modified flywheel. And battery and coil. You may get away with running a stock flywheel but would be limited to the pickup tab width for timing. By having a different flywheel and using magnets you can have a vast amount of timing at any given rpm if you need it.

I have read that someone fit a cr ignition on a 250 or 500. Think it was maxx from the other site.

Yes I was running one. If you do run a twin plug head you will need to run two seperate coils.

I've never seen any hp gain from changing spark plug gap from .020 to .030.
But you can have a high rpm miss if you start to open the gap up.

If you change factory heat range to keep plugs from fouling, you have something wrong (jetting, fuel, ign)

One of the arguments to a small wire electrode is that there is less chance for multiple concurrent paths so you get one good spark instead of multiple weaker ones. Smaller tip also heats up and cools faster so its more likely to clean better and not pre ignite fuel.