Like the title say i have a bad vibration that keeps getting worse and worse. Its in time took it apart to make sure all 3 punk marks were right, which they were. Every bot was tight balance shaft is working key is good. I done a rebuild a couple months ago all new bearings seal o rings ,new clutch basket and rebuilt crank.When when i took my old crank out the bearings came with it , still on the crank. Which i put that crank few years back and had to use crank puller to get it in the bearings. Well i had a shop rebuild one of my old cranks.Well when i put it in i pushed it in by hand barely any force at all and went right in and i could pull it back out by hand.Same way when i put the case on the other side to close the cases. Didn't like the fact it slid in so easy.Well when i started the motor for the first time had a little vibration at 2500 rpms not to bad.Well now the whole motor is shaking and now my pipe is vibration really bad and every day more and more. Well when i checked the timing i grab the flywheel and could pull the crank to me and then i would grab the primary gear and pull it back that way at least quarter of inch each way or less that is a guess. Would you guys say that is my problem. The other motor i built the crank were tight in the bearings and they didn't vibrate. Has any one run into this before. Thanks for any input in advance. Brian
the crank should not move in and out when assembled. and if the bearings slide on that easy the crank ends are worn. you will get up and down play as well. can you move the flywheel up and down? were the bearings tight in the cases?
No up and down just able to pull it side to side.
Side to side is still a issue - worn crank journals.
That's what i thought because none of my other cranks have done it. I couldnt find anything in the Manual about end play or what the service limit is for the side to side. When i put it together I new it wasn't right. So i went a head with putting it in. Im wondering if it has run out to. I swear it a never ending battle, with these old quads.
A new crankshaft and new cases will have end play of about .005" when the primary drive nut is tight.
New OEM bearings on a crank with worn crank journals with the primary drive nut tignt will still have about .005" end play.
Worn crank journals will cause up and down play on the ignition side.
Worn bearing pockets will cause up and down play on both sides as well as side to side end play .
A new crank with new bearings in worn out bearing pockets with the primary drive nut tignt, can have up to about .080" end play or untill the crank web bums the side of the case.
Did you use OEM main bearings or the Chineese crap that is being sold on Ebay?
I used oem bearings is what i used.When i put the bearings in the were tight i had to press them into the case. My hot rods crank was super tight in it old bearings.
I tore it down this afternoon this what it looks like
http://youtu.be/-g3nQM5AB0U
It looks like its is time to split the cases to find out where the play is comming from. I have never seen that much ware on the crank ends
yea that my thoughts to. Im thinking the the clutch side bearings is wrong. The oem pack was open when i got it, who knows if it was the correct bearing.I have a problem with my stator to. One of the coil is burning up.Which once i get the motor back together. Im going have to test the electric system.Something not right in it. I have only had my Scp pipe on for less 2 months and the carbon build up is unreal in the flange. I have never seen carbon build up like that before in that little of a time.
I'm thinking the the clutch side bearings is wrong. The oem pack was open when i got it, who knows if it was the correct bearing.
Something is not right, I have gotten "OEM Bearings" where the package was open and it was completely the wrong bearing, I'd say there is a good chance that this is the case.
What ever it is, it needs to be fixed before it causes some serious damage.
These old quads demand a patient owner. Good luck -
Yea i stop riding it and took it apart last night guess its good excuse to have Iceracer to do me a port job and oring head now. at least this happen when i have the cash flow to fix it. But their gos my new plastics. Another grand in the motor.
But their gos my new plastics. Another grand in the motor.
Money well spent... I'd rather have a faded yellow sleeper that rips, than a shiny, slow Quadracer.
Look Cool Or a quad that Runs? Ill take a Quad that Runz!
Tell if i could even get a fraction of the money ive put in it. I would sell it in a heart beat. Im getting sick of working on it. Probably still can buy plastics to. Im going to a 87 cylinder or bigger sleeve in the 88 to 92.I dont know which way im going yet. But going to get some good porting and switching to pro head with right squish.
Bad insert on the clutch side.The bearing is tight on the crank.When i split them, I just put the crank in that side and the bearing slid back and fourth in the insert. But the crank does have wear on the other side of the crank.Slides in to easy.That why it didnt do it with my old crank the stator side bearing held it tight before. Which this crank doesnt that side has wear. How much does it cost for new inserts for the cases.
How much do new bearing inserts cost
I live around Elkins, im a little south of Elkins