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Why you naming your bike after ketchup ?
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87 for sure. Bike is coming along well.
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Why you naming your bike after ketchup ?
Quote1. heinz 57
Used to describe a person who is a mixed blood of many nationalities, also for a dog that is a mix of many breeds.
That guy has irish, italian, french, native american, and african in him, so he's a heinz 57
Not named after ketchup, it's a figure of speak that came from the ketchup lmao
So Heinz 87 sounds better?
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Pulled my carb off today so I can give her a good scrub. It's effing GRODY
Also found out that the airbox eliminator kit won't like to play with the rear shock
And I pulled my reeds too so I could take a picture of the intake
And found them to have the tiniest opening ever..... So until I can get some VF3
I bent them a little
Oh and I found out what jets are in the carb!
37.5 pilot
270 main
Exactly 2 1/2 turns out on the air screw
Then I gave ole Dr. Q a call to ask some questions about where I should start with the jetting for the PJ38 and got some really awesome advice and a base line to start from!
Oh here's the intake btw
But then I was left with the delimma of the 38 not fitting the stock boots!
But I put some muscle to it and....
Probably not the best idea to do it this way but I'm gunna let it sit and see if they relax to the shape.
Well that's about it for this update.....
Oh wait, forgot I put the braided stainless line on between the front master and splitter
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Got the starter jets ordered for the PJ.
That's why I called Q was for some jetting advice.
Starting off with
50 pilot
162 main
1 1/2 turns out on the air screw
Clip in the middle position on the unknown needle.
Excited to get this carb on there finally. I'd very much like to run the 38, this engine REALLY needs it.
Oh and word of advice: When ordering jets, watch where you buy them from. I accidentally ordered the pilot from SHANG-FECKING-HAI! It'll be here around December time..... Oh well, the bikes not running anytime soon. And if it does I am fine with running the 34 until then lol. -
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You should just get the rm465 intake its like 34 dollars.
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34 more then I need to spend at the moment. That can come later down the road.
LADYS AND GENTLMEN. THE HEINZ 87 Q-RACER IS 48" OUT SIDE TO OUTSIDE OF THE FRONT END. That's right! It's MOSTLY sitting on it's on weight in the front.
I've got the camber shims in but the tires still look laid in at the bottom. Maybe it'll all come out right once stuff is tightened up. Still waiting on lower a-arm bushings. Gah darn.
Im thinking it should be done is the next month or so. -
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Camber is likely still off because they're tried and true Q shims!! Lol
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you need zilla front shocks. the wider stance is gonna wear out the 250 ones.
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I have some Works on the way from All American. These are those mystery front shocks that come out of a pile of shocks back in 98 lmao
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What spindles are you using? Is it just me or is the distance between your upper and lower arm mount point smaller/shorter than the distance between your ball joints on your spindles?
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Stock 250 spindles. I haven't tightened anything up yet cause I'm still waiting on lower a-arm bushings
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you know that the 250 and 500 have different spindles, 500 are a bit larger.
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Arite,,, well I am using my 250 spindles and 250 hubs, and 250 stock rims, and 250 stock brakes and everything stock 250 out on the end. The only things from a 500 on it are the a-arms and soon to be tie rods.
What's the 500 having larger spindles gotta do with anything? Huh? HUh? HUH?!!!! -
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I believe rims hubs and calipers are the same, but the 500 I think has different rotors(could be wrong) along with spindles
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yeah larger rotor, different placing of the caliaper, but if you have a binding problem you may need the 500 spindles.
thats all chuck. I thought i had all that posted back on mhr for you guys. -
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Oh ok! Don't know if she's gunna bind anywhere yet. I can't do crap without lower arm bearings/bushings. Gunna see if mom can x-reference them and find them and the seals for cheap through her work.
I wish I still had that site. I wouldn't mind buying it from him but I can't get ahold of him to ask. Maybe we need a proper write up for the arm swap here on this site? -
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I HAD to throw the Works on it today lol
After everything's tightened up and I got the bushings made and crap it should be at about 14 1/2" to 14 3/4" of clearance in the front. How much actual travel, I have no idea. I'll have to figure out a way to measure that.
Heinz 87 is closer to being a rider again!!! -
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Sweet chuckie! Glad to see this stuff go to good use. Are you going to paint them eventually?
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I will probably get the springs blasted and repowdercoated later on.
Hopefully this 400EX will get sold and I'll have the cash to put into this thing. -
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Spent waayyyy too much money on this thing today.
But got a-arm bearings ordered, 36 and 38 tooth rear sprockets ordered, a set of HiPer carbon fiber double beadlock rims and 18" razr's ordered, and got All American paid some for the front shocks. On the 3rd I'll be able to send my rear shock away to be rebuilt amd Moto says the axle is ready to go when Bucky gets the tie rods to him! Then i'll just need a set of stock LTR rear hubs! She's slowly but surely getting there!! -
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If only Moto told me he was waiting on my tie rods. I have a set of hubs Moto gave me that are widening ltz/ltr 4 lug hubs I think they widen like 1" on each side. They need a new stud on each hub but I'll send'm your way if you think you can use them.
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Dude that'd be freakin perfect!!!! I'll for sure be having to send y'all beverage money lmao
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Well,,,, got my carb back on yesterday after cleaning it real good (outside of it at least), got the airbox back on today, race cut my wiring harness (I have some tips for doing that I'll add in), got a stripped exhaust boss fixed up, pipe sealed up real good (hopefully) and a few other small things like getting the clutch perch and lever back on, cable rerouted, throttle spring clipped, etc.
heres the harness
basically i looked at the wiring diagram and unplugged everything that has to do with the stock kill switch and lights. My bike doesnt have a lighting coil on the stator but its got the wire for it (wtf?) and all the stock lighting wires were still there. i pulled all that off, regulator included.
The stripping down is the easy part but whats the tricky part is that all the black/white wires in the harness are grounds and everyone of them go to the lighting circuit. so when you are removing them you think you dont need them completely. YOU NEED AT LEAST ONE. For the black/white wire thats coming out the CDI box (the black thing on the left side of the frame). I thought i didint need a ground hooked to it but you do. you leave the yellow/black wire coming out the CDI open,, thats what your aftermarket (in my case tether) kill switch goes to. If you ground the red/black wire it kills the ignition, so you need a tether or kill switch thats a "normally open" style switch and then when its in the "off" position it grounds the "hot" wire. Hopefully this makes sense. I'm gunna make a copy of my wiring diagram so i can draw on it or edit it in paint or something for yall. so it's more clear lol
Ok so now heres the exhaust stud threads. The last couple times i changed out my pipe i noticed my exhaust studd was pulling out of the cylinder. well i pull it out today and get this sight
so i went and grabbed a bolt with the same size/pitch of threads and a matching nut
(note, the one i used was actually a little longer than this)
and did this
the bolt was able to thread in and got decently tight before i felt like it was going to slip the threads then i put the nut on and tightend it pretty good. I figure it should hold pretty well and the pipe does NOT move now lol
so my little lady is starting to look like a bike again!!
I'm going to wait untill alll the parts i ordered are in before posting pictures of them. Make yall wait to see those carbon fiber beadlocks
LOL
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Your exhaust stud could be repaired easily in about 5 minutes. I had to repair a engine oil drain cover on the husky, worked like a charm
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