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Author Topic: bleeding front breaks  (Read 869 times)

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bleeding front breaks
« on: January 06, 2014, 08:18:44 pm »
so i teied bleeding front breaks nothing was happening so i took the break line off of the master cylinder and no fluid would come out so i put my finger over the hole where the line goes on and tried to bleed the master itself i had gotten fluid to come out but not sure if enough ! so i blew air down in the little hole in the m/s and it came out of the line hole i tried in the hole right next to it the one that looks like only a little pin hole and nothing , then i tried blowing air through the line hole and no air would pass through in to m/s is it a one way thing like a check valve  ? i saw on line you could reverse gravity bleed them so the air flows upward is this possible on my sissy LT250 lol   any info would b helpful    thanks mike

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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2014, 09:31:55 pm »
I just crack open the banjo bolt (both sides) till fluid starts running out then tighten then do bleed procedure.

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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2014, 09:44:16 pm »
I've tried bleeding front brakes by hand, but it's sooo much easier with a mity vac from a auto parts store. Cracking every threaded junction while you have the lever pulled in to bleed out all the trapped air.
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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2014, 09:59:43 pm »
I have learned a couple tricks that work well. I take a pop bottle and drill about an eighth inch hole in top, big enough for an eighth inch primer line. Stuff the end of a foot long piece in there. The other end goes to the bleeder. Sometimes a zip tie works to hold it. Now make sure the line stays full of fluid and crack er open. Let it run in there awhile. Close and bleed. Repeat if needed. You can also drill two holes and put another line in there. If the bottle is nice and stiff you can suck on the line and not get fluid in your mouth. Hey it works.

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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2014, 10:11:27 pm »
sometimes taking the master apart and cleaning it will make it work better, you gotta think, these bikes are 25 years old and there is always some kind of build up in there.

when you take cover off the master look down inside of it you will see a black rubber boot that has some slots in it.
take that out, a small pick can get it out, it just slides back in when done. this will let fluid drop in the chamber faster, keep working the lever. if you want spray some brake fluid cleaner in there first and work master a bunch of times, holding your finger over the hole. you will feel psi build up and crap start to come out of it. when i did this fluid was black and had white corosion come out of it, flush it with fluid before you hook lines back up. and make sure banjo bolt has a clear passage, blow a air gun through it. if you have one. blow out master to if you can. but a bad rubber o-ring will not let master build up enough psi to work brakes good. i think there are 2 o-rings maybe 3 in the master. you can take it apart and clean it, stuff a clean rag in hole and stick a screw driver in it and turn it a few time to clean it out.
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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2014, 10:21:29 pm »
i like all the ideas i certainly am going to try them out to see which i can get to work ,has anybody tried the procedure of reverse gravity bleeding seems as it would work , hang a bottle of fluid like a iv bag and connect the hose to the **** bleeder and the air bubbles go up through the m/s instead of going down against gravity but i was not sure about it because of the fact i could not get air to go from the brake line screw hole up through the master cylinder . any body know any reason air would not flow up through it .  -->

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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2014, 10:24:59 pm »
not sure on that, but there is a just a snap ring that holds the master together
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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2014, 10:26:35 pm »
is that the snap ring inside the master around those two little holes

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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2014, 10:34:40 pm »
pull the rubber boot off where the lever pushes rod in, you will see it
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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2014, 10:36:02 pm »
ok thanks

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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2014, 10:43:58 pm »
try to lube it up before you put it back on, i put a thin layer of grease on mine.
there is one rubber cup at the end try to get it in there with edges going in first, and once you get it in
if you think it rolled slide it in and out a few times, it usually fix itself. you can do the turn and push to lol
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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2014, 07:03:25 pm »
still no luck with front breaks , if i fill master cylinder and remove break line should fluid come out ? mine does not , is something wrong with m/s?

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Re: bleeding front breaks
« Reply #12 on: January 09, 2014, 12:41:46 am »
I had same prolem with mine. Ended up filling the lines .Also kept taking  th bhe e ango off and put finger over hole until I got some pressure built.Then I put the line back on kept doing this over and over finally started to work again.
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