Author Topic: 89 First time rebuild (Read 1254 times)

Crash_Lander · « **on:** August 24, 2013, 05:31:33 pm »

So like the title says, I will be attempting to split the cases and rebuild my first LT engine.. When this quad was bought the cases were leaking and covered with epoxy and I was super naive. I am a sucker for an LT though. 6th gear in the whoops leaving buttercup heading to the gordons well sand drags the piston came apart. I will be posting some pictures of the current damage.

Im still learning how to post pictures. The head has damage. The pics are before and after some hand sanding. Should I re dome the head?

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #1 on:** August 24, 2013, 05:43:15 pm »

Some other shots.

What are the affects of porting the 2 "holes" for lack of better terms on the intake side. More so rounding them out and making them smooth. Also I did some light clean up work in the transfer area where I could reach with a dremel and some on the exhaust side but not polished out yet. Looking to get the dremel extension to reach up higher and the 90* areas. Any good links to porting articles? I only want to clean things up like the cylinder should be since I will be on pump gas or maybe 100LL

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #2 on:** August 24, 2013, 05:48:23 pm »

My old FTZ reed cage Im thinking of cutting and using as the intake boot for the mikuni 38mm

LT250RWV · « **Reply #3 on:** August 24, 2013, 06:05:38 pm »

Porting is a guarded secert not much info on it. But where your talking about will help some. I ported them out and took material off up in the sides of the transfer ports put I didnt mess with the transfer port window or the exhaust port. I gained power in the low end and a little mid range but that was butt dyno result. My butt could feel the difference

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #4 on:** August 24, 2013, 06:56:59 pm »

I understand the secrecy. I guess I will smooth it out some and keep looking for some info.

LT250RWV · « **Reply #5 on:** August 25, 2013, 06:07:20 am »

Quote from: Crash_Lander on August 24, 2013, 05:48:23 pm

My old FTZ reed cage Im thinking of cutting and using as the intake boot for the mikuni 38mm

looks like the boyesen rad valve doesnt it. I always wonder wat the ftz treed setup looked like.

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #6 on:** August 25, 2013, 08:40:12 am »

It is the Rad valve design but from them if that makes any sense. I dont plan on replacing the reeds because i am running V2's

LT250RWV · « **Reply #7 on:** August 25, 2013, 09:22:04 am »

you have the v force 2 on your Quadracer now that's what I have and I'm really impressed with him

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #8 on:** August 26, 2013, 01:29:51 pm »

Yes I am running the V2's. Was going to buy a zilla intake boot but I already have the FTZ piece to shave the cage off of. As soon as I get my rocky mountain atv packages im going to be getting further into the dismantle process.

I guess no one has any insight to my head?

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #9 on:** August 29, 2013, 08:53:11 pm »

Made some progress today. Its amazing the things you find splitting the cases after someone split them 2 years ago. Missing bolts, loose bolts, and bolts with the phillips head stripped.

Does anyone know the best place to get the two long bolts that are behind the magneto and under the counter balance? need to replace those well.

I am thinking its time to do ALL of the bearings in the engine, does anyone know where I can buy a complete set?

Iceracer · « **Reply #10 on:** August 30, 2013, 08:50:52 am »

There are no compete set for the 250. Best price you'll get is from Jason. At Toledo.

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 30, 2013, 03:03:21 pm »

I would go ahead and have the head redone. Especially since you are considering changing fuel types.

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #12 on:** August 30, 2013, 09:45:36 pm »

I might change to 100LL but, I am currently waiting on some people to decide what they want to do with their parts.

I did some reading today. A. Graham Bell's Two Stroke Tuning Performance... lots of info in this book. Got it from Amazon if anyone else wants some throne reading material.

Question I wanted to ask... because I understand what the book says to an extent...

On the exhaust port, as soon as it leaves the cylinder, I have a dip. I only cleaned up a portion of the exhaust side but not that area. Is that transition something I would want to smooth out with epoxy or would I want to lower my exhaust port.

My understanding says to leave the port its normal height but epoxy the transition to make it smooth.

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #13 on:** September 14, 2013, 11:51:23 am »

Some updating to my thread...

Installed 2006 YFZ 450 fronts....

Painted the 07 LTZ rear hubs....

Engine stripped down....

Lots of OEM Suzuki parts ordered...

A trip up to see Motor Geek hopefully next week...

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #14 on:** September 14, 2013, 11:53:27 am »

Much necessary work music...

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #15 on:** September 14, 2013, 11:56:23 am »

And yes that is a Pinata in the background...

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #16 on:** September 14, 2013, 12:18:53 pm »

Pics are uploading weird today

James Dandy · « **Reply #17 on:** September 25, 2013, 08:56:05 pm »

How are you posting pics with your iPhone? Man, I'm doing the exact same project, and was wondering the same thing about epoxy in that little dip in the port.
Check out my thread on Engine building literature. Post your book your reading.

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #18 on:** September 26, 2013, 09:12:21 pm »

Save to a folder on my computer then I use the attachments bar below this text box.

Do you have any pics of your LT?

From what I've read that part of the exhaust port can be lowered since it is considered a casting to sleeve flaw.

James Dandy · « **Reply #19 on:** September 27, 2013, 06:25:41 am »

There's my exhaust port.

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #20 on:** September 27, 2013, 05:51:25 pm »

interesting. I wonder what that low spot in the cylider, or high spot in the sleeve is there for? My exhaust port looks the same.

What else are you doing to your cylinder Dandy?

James Dandy · « **Reply #21 on:** September 27, 2013, 06:22:01 pm »

Right now, I'm mostly just staring at it, then reading! Lol. I need to get a few more tools. I've just used a dremel, all I've done is matched the case ports to each other and to the jug. Mine was waay off! I mean the two cases didn't even look like they were meant for each other, then where the exhaust ports met the jug they were off a good 1/16". Especially at the radiuses I just smeared never seize on the bottom of the jug then tightened it down to the case to give me marks to see where the ports landed. I'm still curious about the epoxy idea in the exauhst port. Oh, I did read that we must relieve the exaust port bridge because it will expand from the heat and screw up the rings. I need a good bore gauge and an inside micrometer. I also want a 90* rotary tool. I have a buddy that's a dentist. Gonna ask him if he wants to sell me an old one!

James Dandy · « **Reply #22 on:** September 27, 2013, 06:28:41 pm »

BTW, the never seize idea was real messy. I just used that because it was sitting there. I'm also gonna have mine bored and honed by my local shop. Prolly gonna clean up the outside of the cylinder and hit it with some high temp clear over the natural aluminum finish.. Maybe.

Crash_Lander · « **Reply #23 on:** September 27, 2013, 09:21:19 pm »

Reading your post reminds me of how I need to get back on my engine build. Ive recently been a slacker.

As soon as I get up to see Mr. Hall I am going to ask him about the dip at the lower outer edges of the exhaust port and see what he says, although at that point it will be too late to massage it for me.

I'm almost too terrified to take the trans apart to be able to really work with the cases. I guess I should get over that fear since I do have the manual but still.... makes me nervous.

Ive opened up the intake boost ports, really I just smoothed out that area where it looks funky and obstructive to flow. I will also smooth the jug casting to sleeve in the transfer ports area at the bottom of the jug where the charge enters but, I dont think I will actually mess with the transfer port windows, not this time around.

Hell, I still have all the suspension to dial in, a carb to jet, powervalve to check, and im running out of time.

James Dandy · « **Reply #24 on:** September 28, 2013, 10:48:15 am »

Right on bro, I'm exactly where your at. But in my case, I'm lucky as I basically got this motor for free. My 87 motor is the one I'm running now, so the 88 motor I'm building is basically my experiment for when I build up the 87 motor next year. I'm gonna post more pics of mine, but I can only attach one link per post with this dang smart phone.

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Author Topic: 89 First time rebuild (Read 1254 times)

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