Was wondering the possibilities of a twin cylinder Zilla motor.. I mean there is triple cylinder banshees, why can't we have a twin cylinder 500 motor!?!? I sure would love to have one!! May have to do some research on some machinists

I'd buy the keg!!

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Ask them why the vibrations aggravate the vegus nerve in their chest and their heart rhythm is altered and paralyzes their diaphragm so that they cannot breathe.

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For real???

Drag frames lasting a few race days? Thats a little far fetched. I know of a few personally that have been together for 4+ years now and still going and hold unlimited record runnin all motor. Guees what there alot bigger than 1000cc twins.

I have emailed matoon before and blantly stated that it would be a 10g minimum and doesnt really have any time for b/c there is no market for it. The only viable option for billet cases for a single would be to run a set of caracal cases and have one side of the cases chopped off. Its been done before.

Or run a twin liger set up. Than add the billet crank, rods, tranny, primary, basket for 10 plate set up, bearing support, pipes, reeds, intakes, carbs with huge bowls, ignition. That's probably 30g's.


Just get a arctic cat m1000 and get cutlers big bore(liger) and be way above 1000cc and 200hp.

Note to self do not rush my number 2's anymore!!!

Maybe a different approach is needed.
Instead of an inline twin, something more along the lines of a RGV250 or HD V-twin.
Once the custom built case, crank, and stronger transmission/clutch was sorted, the only issue at that point would be to design a set of pipes for clearance.
Room would have to be made inside the frame, but let's be serious and ask ourselves how many guys would buy an engine like this and NOT put it in a fully custom built drag frame.
Furthermore, if we're going to be serious about it...the amount of money spent on such a built could easily buy a RGV500 or an all-out banshee drag engine, both of which would probably be a better choice.
No, the name of the game in the LT world is getting up to a certain aftermarket banshee build for half the money or less.
Getting equivalent power gains for an LT to be top dog in the 2-stroke world is not an economically sound decision.
You'll spend more money on an LT to be competitive than you would on a banshee or perhaps even a 250r.
In other words, if you want to really go fast, buy a different engine platform to sink money into and the returns will still be positive.

Drag frames lasting a few race days? Thats a little far fetched. I know of a few personally that have been together for 4+ years now and still going and hold unlimited record runnin all motor. Guees what there alot bigger than 1000cc twins.

I have emailed matoon before and blantly stated that it would be a 10g minimum and doesnt really have any time for b/c there is no market for it. The only viable option for billet cases for a single would be to run a set of caracal cases and have one side of the cases chopped off. Its been done before.

Or run a twin liger set up. Than add the billet crank, rods, tranny, primary, basket for 10 plate set up, bearing support, pipes, reeds, intakes, carbs with huge bowls, ignition. That's probably 30g's.


Just get a arctic cat m1000 and get cutlers big bore(liger) and be way above 1000cc and 200hp.

Does the Arctic Cat M1000 have a counter balancer? 


Did any of the other 1000cc plus drag twins have counter balancers?

Quote from: Stpltn250r on December 19, 2012, 07:27:17 pm

Drag frames lasting a few race days? Thats a little far fetched. I know of a few personally that have been together for 4+ years now and still going and hold unlimited record runnin all motor. Guees what there alot bigger than 1000cc twins.

I have emailed matoon before and blantly stated that it would be a 10g minimum and doesnt really have any time for b/c there is no market for it. The only viable option for billet cases for a single would be to run a set of caracal cases and have one side of the cases chopped off. Its been done before.

Or run a twin liger set up. Than add the billet crank, rods, tranny, primary, basket for 10 plate set up, bearing support, pipes, reeds, intakes, carbs with huge bowls, ignition. That's probably 30g's.


Just get a arctic cat m1000 and get cutlers big bore(liger) and be way above 1000cc and 200hp.

Does the Arctic Cat M1000 have a counter balancer? 


Did any of the other 1000cc plus drag twins have counter balancers?

Way back when we use balance the rotating assembly on big twins, take most of the shake out of them. But they would lose a tad of hp after the balance. Now you just let them shake and add a fluid balancer if you want to take some bang out it. You really don't feel a big twin shake under power, just at idle. My 1000cc 4cyl is 180 fire, so it swings 1&3, 2&4 to TDC at the same time. Less issue and more power then smooth 90* fire at 10,200 rpm. Just sucks to pull it over by hand when it's freezing outside.

It's inline. 90* fire is the best on paper. Real world they like to shake, test, test, test. 4 pipes on all of my 4 cly's

Way back when we use balance the rotating assembly on big twins, take most of the shake out of them. But they would lose a tad of hp after the balance. Now you just let them shake and add a fluid balancer if you want to take some bang out it. You really don't feel a big twin shake under power, just at idle. My 1000cc 4cyl is 180 fire, so it swings 1&3, 2&4 to TDC at the same time. Less issue and more power then smooth 90* fire at 10,200 rpm. Just sucks to pull it over by hand when it's freezing outside.

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who is making the fluid dampers? I thought I remember them being made a while ago but have not heard of anything lately.

I have a arctic cat 900 based snowmobile motor in a quad that had Hooper's 1100 kit and now a 1000 CPC kit,  and they do not shake to bad at idle but smooths out pretty good even revving it to 8500rpms.
The motor is rubber mounted and fuel issues have not been a issue luckily for me even at those rpms.

I also have a M1000 snowmobile and it seams about the same at idle and also smooths out real good over idle. The M1000 are best not to let idle for long periods of time or the rubber mounts get stressed and tear.

My 600cc cr500 based Liger on the other hand has been a vibrating monster and is solid mounted.
The vibrations are bearable for the rider as a drag bike racing in the dunes where you may make a dozen passes but the vibration has caused tuning nightmares. I have consistently battled with foaming the fuel in the bowl.
Problem is the foaming is not consistent, so it can have huge jetting swings from the bowls wanting to overflow to running dry.
going to try a pass through style bowl with foam like the Kart guys use. No float needle is used, just one pump to fill the bowl and another to suck the bowl out at a set bowl height. If this does not work then my only other alternative is to try EFI which eliminates any kind of bowl in the system.