oops, i misspoke. I didnt mean parallel. I meant straight. Looking at the 450s, the tie rods are almost straight and definitely not parallel to the a-arms.
Nice pics D
When they are running straight there angle to the a-arm changes quite a bit threw it's range of travel and causes excessive bumpsteer and toe gain and lose. When set lower and running parallel with the arms they stay much closer to parallel with the A-arms throught the suspension travel range reducing bumpsteer and toe changes. With some varying thickeness spacers you can get it to almost no bumpsteer, each bike would be slightly different on thickness to get almost 0 bump.
Thank you guys for all the pics, this really helps out the members here at Suzuki Quadracer HQ! Thumbs up guys!!
That's what this "copycat" site is for Mitch!!
Buck,
What are those tie rod ends?
Are they the whole tie rod or just the ends?
Do they fix most of the bump steer?
Thanks
My rods and ends were shot so instead of getting new factory ends and rods I got American Star Racing rods and ends. The ends are heims with what Dez called high misalignment spacers. I couldn't tell you if the tie rods help correct the bump steer or not cause I had no clue what bump steer was until I started rebuilding my bike. I hope that answers your questions as much as possible Glamis.
most old school guys dont like running the open helm joints, they say that they will wear out faster.
mud, sand, dirt can get in them and they wont last.
That's what this "copycat" site is for Mitch!!
Enough D...... Grk, on our race cars we run the same heims for years, but they are aircraft grade. A squirt of lithium grease before every ride and you'll be good. The theory that sealed are better is chit from what i've seen on race cars.
And Q's billet arms, I do believe mount on the bottom also. The extended chunk is to make the weak aluminum stronger
I'm a mocking instigator Badmoon what can I say. And according to Q you cannot safely flip the steering horn because something about the bottom of the spindle being stepped or unlevel.
I put a dab of synthetic grease on my heims is that lithium grease?
No D, it will say lithium. It is in a spray can with a nozzle. It is a low-medium viscosity I would say around a 20-30 weight. I'll try to find a link.
Those would be Mitch's shims, and Q's stuff isn't on the web and my understanding is all prices are private. Pretty sure his email is in his last couple YouTube flicks. He's a
**** poor business man said so himself so good luck with that route if you choose it.
Just ordered a set for my LT500 to be! I love this thread, makes me remember that bump steer problem well especially after owning an LTR450 which handles very tightly. This sounds like a great way to correct it! Thanks for making these!
after adding these shims, what toe in numbers are the most stable?
Bump for HiperFind's question.
Next thing on my list to replace is my Tie Rod Ends (All balls from
www.rockymountainatv.com most likely) so I would assume putting Mitch's shims on would be the way to go?
I think camber is determined by the spacer size.
I was thinking of getting Mitch's shims from the forum store and
I watched q's u tube vid and he mentioned something about there being
Differ t sizes for different bikes250/500 is this correct or not ?would the
Ones in the store be good for my 89 250 ? Thanks
Since 2005 Q brought up the lower spacer width to be 0.200 (5mm) on the old HQ and other forums for camber fix, its not till 2014 that he now says different width shim sizes are required after a machined spacers has been produced and over 50 sets sold, with not one complaint.
Ok thanks Mitch just wanted to make sure before I purchased anything !
Here's the vid of the bump steer with metaltech a arms/z400 spindles ... It finally loaded
