Author Topic: SS ARP head stud kit for zilla (Read 1346 times)

LTman · « **on:** May 28, 2015, 10:42:07 pm »

Im not into the bling factor but ARP makes SS 10mm X1.25 x55mm or 48mm long studs that would look great
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=4900

LTman · « **Reply #1 on:** May 28, 2015, 10:45:59 pm »

They also have them 10mx1.25/1.50x55m or 48m

Motoman991 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 29, 2015, 08:03:23 am »

$68 for four studs? What a deal.

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #3 on:** May 29, 2015, 08:36:42 am »

Quote from: LTman on May 28, 2015, 10:42:07 pm

Im not into the bling factor but ARP makes SS 10mm X1.25 x55mm or 48mm long studs that would look great
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=4900

Why pay $68.00 to install stainless steel studs that are about 3/4 the strength of the stock studs and increase the potential for having head gasket problems?

Why not just install acorn nuts on the stock studs and you will not be able to see the studs?

ZillaFreak · « **Reply #4 on:** May 29, 2015, 12:06:24 pm »

Want bling, buy these.

http://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium/titanium-bolts-flanged-hex-race-spec/titanium-race-spec-hex-head-m10-x-1-25mm-x-50mm.html#.VWi4Os9VhBc

They also have 57mm long ones too.

LTman · « **Reply #5 on:** May 29, 2015, 01:03:49 pm »

Just thought some 1 might be interested in these You should never use a bolt in a head it will work but your going to have striping problem if u remove them very many times

LTman · « **Reply #6 on:** May 29, 2015, 01:28:03 pm »

Quote from: MotorGeek on May 29, 2015, 08:36:42 am

Quote from: LTman on May 28, 2015, 10:42:07 pm
Im not into the bling factor but ARP makes SS 10mm X1.25 x55mm or 48mm long studs that would look great
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=4900

Why pay $68.00 to install stainless steel studs that are about 3/4 the strength of the stock studs and increase the potential for having head gasket problems?

Why not just install acorn nuts on the stock studs and you will not be able to see the studs?

I don't see why these cant be used correct me if im wrong these have 180,000psi tensile strength can be torque to 57lbs and have 9,970lbs preload that is way more than a 220,000psi 8mm stud can handle

El Diablo · « **Reply #7 on:** May 29, 2015, 11:18:37 pm »

Quote

I don't see why these cant be used correct me if I'm wrong, these have 180,000psi tensile strength can be torque to 57lbs and have 9,970lbs preload that is way more than a 220,000psi 8mm stud can handle

But the OEM studs are not the weak point, it's the aluminum cylinder that the studs are screwed into that is the point of failure. Plus, you only at most need to torque the nuts down to 21 Lb-ft.

ZillaFreak · « **Reply #8 on:** May 31, 2015, 08:05:51 am »

Striping problem with bolts? No.

You can even get them in blue
http://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium/titanium-bolts-flanged-hex/titanium-hex-head-m10-x-1-25mm-x-57mm-blue.html#.VWsjNs9VhBc

LTman · « **Reply #9 on:** June 03, 2015, 08:31:19 am »

u must have bolts in your head

ZillaFreak · « **Reply #10 on:** June 03, 2015, 11:22:28 am »

You are clueless. You know how many engines use head bolts instead of studs?
You will not strip out a bolt if you use the correct wrench.

LTman · « **Reply #11 on:** June 03, 2015, 12:38:00 pm »

maybe,No how many Where not talking about the head of the bolt The aluminum is weak in the cylinder A bolt wouldnt be a good ideal in a quadracer cylinder BC The aluminum is weak this is a quadracer site

ZillaFreak · « **Reply #12 on:** June 03, 2015, 12:48:54 pm »

What difference is there with a stud and nut torqued down to 25psi and a bolt torqued to 25psi?
There is none.

Cunningham_821 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 03, 2015, 02:23:39 pm »

Im not gonna start and am not gonna fight but a stud is stronger than a bolt. i used to use bolts for my cylinder and it really blows way nicer to have studs. I guess another thing to me is why not iuse the100$ you will spend and buy something that will actually improve performance..

Gillio · « **Reply #14 on:** June 03, 2015, 07:34:59 pm »

The problem is the integrity of the threads in the cylinder. A stud will be threaded down till it bottoms on the shoulder of the stud locking it in, then the nut being torqued onto a secure stud. A bolt its gonna be torqued with rotation of the bolt threads pulling on and putting a lot of stress on weak Aluminum threads.

Motoman991 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 03, 2015, 08:55:24 pm »

Quote from: Cunningham_821 on June 03, 2015, 02:23:39 pm

Im not gonna start and am not gonna fight but a stud is stronger than a bolt. i used to use bolts for my cylinder and it really blows way nicer to have studs. I guess another thing to me is why not iuse the100$ you will spend and buy something that will actually improve performance..

Not going to argue, but....... Yeah.

25 PSI is 25 PSI. What's so hard to understand about that?

This is like saying the woman over there that weighs 150lbs exerts a different amount of force than the guy over there that weighs 150lbs. They're different sexes so they must be different, but I'm not going to argue.

El Diablo · « **Reply #16 on:** June 03, 2015, 10:36:38 pm »

Threads / psi (I think this is the correct term) is the difference. For example, lets say that we can screw a stud in to max depth (where it bottoms out) which is 20 threads. Until there is an object such as a cylinder head to be torqued down, there will be 20 threads engaged at 0 psi. Once torqued to spec, all 20 threads will share the load.

To screw a bolt in, even the appropriate length one, You will start to exert tension on it once the head of the bolt makes initial contact with the top of the object to be torqued. This means that at initial contact, you may only have 15-16 threads engaged. At 50% torque load, you may only have 17-18 threads engaged. That leaves 2-3 threads still unused while the remainder of the torque is being applied. In theory, this is why the threads become stripped more easily when trying to torque a bolt as opposed to a nut on a stud.

Cunningham_821 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 03, 2015, 11:22:24 pm »

A stud will provide more consistent torque load on the head and a bolt will stretch way before a stud will of the same grade. But if u wanna use bolt go for it. This to me falls into the catagory of copper gaskets, 10mm head studs, copper silicone, and all the other things ive heard ppl talk about pertaining to heads over the years. If thats how u want to assemble your engine i say go for it. Ill stick with my stock studs and o-ringed head.

Zilla273 · « **Reply #18 on:** June 04, 2015, 01:18:29 pm »

duck tape!! thats what i use

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Author Topic: SS ARP head stud kit for zilla (Read 1346 times)

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