Author Topic: Jetting change or bad reeds? (Read 6964 times)

LTman · « **Reply #50 on:** July 05, 2014, 09:51:27 am »

is your pv moving

Deebo · « **Reply #51 on:** July 05, 2014, 01:06:07 pm »

Quote from: LTman on July 05, 2014, 09:51:27 am

is your pv moving

It wasn't stuck. I set it back to the stock tension though.

Deebo · « **Reply #52 on:** July 05, 2014, 02:09:00 pm »

Just gave it another whirl... Still the same. Rev cleans at idle, just acts up when you're in gear

GrkGuy · « **Reply #53 on:** July 12, 2014, 06:42:14 am »

do you have a different carb to try,

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #54 on:** July 13, 2014, 04:20:57 pm »

Deebo mines doing the same thing but I haven't dropped my main jet yet. I hope I don't continue to have the bogging from 3/4 to full throttle. I dropped my needle to the leanest clip position and it didn't really make a difference at all.

Quadracer · « **Reply #55 on:** July 13, 2014, 06:48:29 pm »

Got the same problem but my exaust smoking white, the crank seal on clutch side pop out from his place and the oil goes inside the combustion chamber. i replaced it with locktit and now is good.
hope is help.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #56 on:** July 14, 2014, 01:56:28 pm »

Well I just ordered 7 different main jets from 380-440 gonna rejet it down a couple sizes have a 450 in now. See if it changes at all or if the problem persists.

Deebo · « **Reply #57 on:** July 14, 2014, 05:06:23 pm »

Glad i'm not the only NOOB around here

Heminutt · « **Reply #58 on:** July 14, 2014, 07:20:50 pm »

Have you made sure you dont have a water leak

GrkGuy · « **Reply #59 on:** July 15, 2014, 05:36:22 am »

any new news on this matt, maybe its time for a leak test.

Deebo · « **Reply #60 on:** July 15, 2014, 07:00:22 am »

I pulled the clutch cover recently and didn't notice any mixing of coolant with transmission fluid. So I don't think it's a water leak.

No new news lately grk. Been working a lot lately and haven't had time to look into it more. Planning on working on it this weekend.

Heminutt · « **Reply #61 on:** July 15, 2014, 04:51:58 pm »

My 250 was doing the same thing found out I wad leaking coolant into the cylinder and burning it.

Deebo · « **Reply #62 on:** July 15, 2014, 05:48:19 pm »

Quote from: Heminutt on July 15, 2014, 04:51:58 pm

My 250 was doing the same thing found out I wad leaking coolant into the cylinder and burning it.

How did you find the leak?

Heminutt · « **Reply #63 on:** July 15, 2014, 05:57:00 pm »

I sent it iceracer and he found it what happened was the sleeve and cylinder separated causing it to leak.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #64 on:** July 15, 2014, 06:04:59 pm »

I'm going to bore scope my cylinder in a night or two. If I'm leaking water wouldn't their be rust in the cylinder if it's leaking water?

Deebo · « **Reply #65 on:** July 17, 2014, 03:32:53 pm »

Did notice some transmission fluid pooled up on the concrete under the quad.... Not sure if that's related

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #66 on:** July 17, 2014, 05:32:48 pm »

Probably not related but funny you mention it mines weeping tranny fluid out of the primary drive gear seal.

LT250RWV · « **Reply #67 on:** July 17, 2014, 09:22:41 pm »

Matt my 250 has done same thing for around 10 months. Ive chased everything like you have. New primary coil new pick up. Different cdi different coil. Checked all connections. Checked harness. But mine doesnt run right first threw 3rd. I have 400 main in. But I can pull a 450 clean threw 4 th threw 6th. But will not pull it till 4th.. but mine has flashes were it runs right for a pull or to then back to crap. Im pulling motor apart this weekend im going threw everything. If I figure mine out il let you know asap.

GrkGuy · « **Reply #68 on:** July 18, 2014, 06:12:00 am »

if your leaking coolant wouldnt a leak test tell you, will you see bubbles come up in the rad. or do a
leak test on the rad, that will tell you if you have a leak, i think that most auto part stores have
one you can rent or use, but your uncle prob has one in his shop. but have you tried a different carb yet.
i might have one i can let you use to see if thats the problem.

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #69 on:** July 18, 2014, 07:35:10 am »

Quote from: LT250RWV on July 17, 2014, 09:22:41 pm

Matt my 250 has done same thing for around 10 months. Ive chased everything like you have. New primary coil new pick up. Different cdi different coil. Checked all connections. Checked harness. But mine doesnt run right first threw 3rd. I have 400 main in. But I can pull a 450 clean threw 4 th threw 6th. But will not pull it till 4th.. but mine has flashes were it runs right for a pull or to then back to crap. Im pulling motor apart this weekend im going threw everything. If I figure mine out il let you know asap.

This problem is not a mechanical problem, It is a rich condition. You need to investigate WHY it is rich if the jetting is the same as when it use to run good. If you have recently changed reed petals, you may have reed petals that are too thin and are "floating" and producing rich like symptoms. Set the spark plug gap to about .020" If the spark plug gap or stiffer reed petals does not fix the problem, I think that you will find the problem in the list below. The symptoms act like a carburetor that is about 2 to 4 main jet sizes too rich.

1. The main jet you are using may not be the same jet that you used when it ran good. Aftermarket main jets are often miss-marked.

2. Spark arrestor is partially plugged.

3. The inside of the stinger has accumulated enough carbon to change the pipe restriction. An over-restricted pipe will make the engine run rich on the main jet and will need a smaller main jet.

4. Different air filter oils will often require a different main jet.

5. Different brands of fuel will change the optimum main jet size. It is not uncommon for Race gasoline or AV gas to need 1 to 3 main jet leaner than premium pump gas.

6. Temperature affects the main jet size. The main jet will need to be approximately 1 main jet leaner for about every 15 deg increase in intake temperature.

7. A 40% increase in humidity will require about 1 main jet leaner.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #70 on:** July 18, 2014, 08:34:55 am »

Brian wasn't 10 months ago roughly when you switched to the tm38 mikuni?

LT250RWV · « **Reply #71 on:** July 18, 2014, 06:52:17 pm »

Still ran like crap with stocker on. I tried pwk 38 and now Tm 38

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #72 on:** July 18, 2014, 08:08:04 pm »

I wonder if pulling my outerwears off my k&n would help.

Deebo · « **Reply #73 on:** July 19, 2014, 07:26:27 am »

Quote from: Buckeye513 on July 18, 2014, 08:08:04 pm

I wonder if pulling my outerwears off my k&n would help.

I pulled the outerwear off my UNI. No difference.

I'm using a new spark arrestor, genuine mikuni jets, pulled the pipe and cleaned the small amount of build up in it, same air filter w/ same oil (tried with and without outerwear), and been using the same fuel for the last 3 or so years. Only thing I haven't changed are the reeds, which I might as well swap out at this point.

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #74 on:** July 19, 2014, 12:11:18 pm »

Quote from: Deebo on July 19, 2014, 07:26:27 am

Quote from: Buckeye513 on July 18, 2014, 08:08:04 pm
I wonder if pulling my outerwears off my k&n would help.

I pulled the outerwear off my UNI. No difference.

I'm using a new spark arrestor, genuine mikuni jets, pulled the pipe and cleaned the small amount of build up in it, same air filter w/ same oil (tried with and without outerwear), and been using the same fuel for the last 3 or so years. Only thing I haven't changed are the reeds, which I might as well swap out at this point.

If the reed change does not fix the problem. Change the spark arrestor to a straight through type of muffler. The new spark arrestor may be slightly more restrictive. A slight increase in restriction will often require a smaller main jet to stop the misfire at 3/4 to full throttle just before it is usually time to shift.

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Author Topic: Jetting change or bad reeds? (Read 6964 times)

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