A longer connecting rod would probably help if the damn piston pin wasn't closer to the BOTTOM of the piston than the TOP!

A longer connecting rod would probably help if the damn piston pin wasn't closer to the BOTTOM of the piston than the TOP!

The piston pin needs to be about half way up to skirt to distribute the load evenly on the skirt.

Also

Moving the piston pin will also require the cylinder to be located higher or lower affecting the crankcase volume. 

One of the tricks in a good engine design is finding the happy medium in all of the design parameters simultaneously.  If you optimize one parameter it often hurts another parameter so bad that the overall power and or reliability suffers. 

That's fine its no big deal. You don't need to a prick about its only a pipe. Christ you act like someone is trying to bang your old lady.
 

I didn't really think I was being a prick....I guess offering to help by posting up info on how to layout a cone is being a prick nowadays? All I was getting at is if you can't plug the numbers into these equations and solve for everything you need, then I'm not going to type out a big old math lesson. There are sights on the internet that can do a far better job than I can.

Also, I'm not giving out pipe dimensions. If I give out critical dimensions off of an HPR19 or Q pipe or any pipe for that matter, that is unethical. I'm not going to do that. I am not a pipe designer either, so I can't design a pipe for you and give you that info. I understand not wanting to shell out big bucks for a pipe, and the appeal of making your own. I have been there, but you are going to have to either design your own pipe, or buy one, or find someone else to give you the info. There are books out there that cover two stroke pipe tuning. I found a free copy of one on the internet once upon a time. It was very thorough, and made pretty good sense. I'm betting if you put your mind to it you could design a decent pipe with it.

Anyways I do appologize if I came across as a prick. I was tired and didn't feel like typing enough to thoroughly explain last night. I also needed to draw this diagram out to show how this worked.

10 hrs that's interesting.

I don't consider myself to have a high HP zilla but it seems to run pretty good and I'm getting 35 Hrs on average on a piston.  JH would have a better idea of where my motors HP range would be.

Is your bike drag ported with no bridge?

One of my jugs, I ported excessively back in the day, and the bridge broke on it. I run it no bridge now, but my good jug has the bridge. It's funny, if you look at the two jugs most people would swear my old jug would have to run harder, but it isn't even in the same category as my new jug. The ports are much more hogged out in the old jug. But I made a couple of errors I can't correct completely in the transfer ports. It runs good on top, but is really dead down low. With my old jug I can run 30+ hours on a piston. When you pull the pistons out of it, they look worn, and the rings will be trashed, but the piston won't be collapsed much. With My new jug though, the piston looks good, with very little signs of wear, but it will be collapsed.

It's pretty much done at this point.

Looks great!

pretty damm nice. wish i had the skills to do that.
if ti was mine i would have to go hit huge mud hole and say look guys no rust. lol

If somebody manufactured a nearly rust proof, hand coned, dyno tested pipe... Now that's a new market.  Let's also say it was manufactured in limited numbers...  Imagine the demand for something like that. You'd be the new kid on the pipe block for LT's. 

Looks good can you get some videos

If somebody manufactured a nearly rust proof, hand coned, dyno tested pipe... Now that's a new market.  Let's also say it was manufactured in limited numbers...  Imagine the demand for something like that. You'd be the new kid on the pipe block for LT's. 

Hand coned steel pipe are very time consuming to build.  Building a hand coned, all welds hammered, stainless pipe will be much more time intensive than a steel pipe.  This would make the cost out of reach for the majority. 

Another concern I have is reliability.  Even when the manufactures use back purging and all of the tricks necessary for proper stainless fabrication, I repair a lot of stainless steel and titanium 4 strokes pipes. 

The new high tech 4 strokes run extremely high exhaust gas temps. The pipe on my yfz gets glowing red hot on a regular basis. This is the norm for most all the high tech 450's. This is extremely hard on the exhaust pipes.

The egt's won't be that extreme on this two stroke. I personally don't think cracking is going to be an issue. That is yet to be proven. I'd bet a dollar that this pipe lasts longer without cracking than my Q v1 pipe did. 

I used 18 gauge.

Nice!
Lol shuts quad off steps off, TROJAN MAN!