Author Topic: My First 88 LT500 Build (Read 38471 times)

Q2W · « **Reply #650 on:** October 10, 2013, 06:35:03 am »

Awesome! Congrats on getting her fired up!

Before you go changing out pilots, while it's running and warmed up, try turning the air screw in about a half turn at a time. See if the engine reacts. If you have to go in more than 1 turn, i'd fatten the pilot up and start over with the air screw at 2 turns out.

Labor of love my friend but very satisfying when you get her going. Expect the front end to come up.... A lot!

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #651 on:** October 10, 2013, 06:51:00 am »

Thanks Q2W!! And yeah I couldn't help but take it for a spin last night and not even 1/3rd of throttle in first and it was like insta wheelie!! Couldn't believe the low end torque and power I'm almost afraid to wind it out and bang through the gears... Ha yeah bullshit i can't freaking wait to get it to the farm and rip into it! Once I get the jetting and stuff set right and do a few plug checks of course.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #652 on:** October 10, 2013, 12:58:17 pm »

Anyone know where I can get an idle set screw and spring for the tm38 mikuni at?

Rider414 · « **Reply #653 on:** October 10, 2013, 01:18:35 pm »

http://www.jetsrus.com/

I just ordered some mikuni parts from them.

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #654 on:** October 10, 2013, 01:29:32 pm »

I think I got a new screw and spring off a different mikuni. I'll try it on my zuke an see if it works

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #655 on:** October 10, 2013, 02:39:55 pm »

Found the screw still searching for the spring. What happens if I run the screw without the spring?

Rider414 · « **Reply #656 on:** October 10, 2013, 02:58:52 pm »

The spring is suppose to keep the screw from vibrating out.

Hey Derick, I was inspired by your video's and pulled Shirley out of the garage and fire her up (3 primer kicks, 1 kick to ignite!) and after she warmed up, my idle was starting to race like yours. Its cooler out than the last time I had it running. I turned the air screw a 1/2 turn "in" to richen up the mixture and the idle settled down and sounded good.

Post another video if you can get your Zilla in line with that idle.

Rainman56 · « **Reply #657 on:** October 10, 2013, 03:29:56 pm »

Quote from: Rider414 on October 10, 2013, 02:58:52 pm

and after she warmed up, my idle was starting to race like yours. Its cooler out than the last time I had it running. I turned the air screw a 1/2 turn "in" to richen up the mixture and the idle settled down and sounded good.

Post another video if you can get your Zilla in line with that idle.

Are they big 500CC singles more fussy jetting wise with temperature change than smaller engines or multi cylinder 2 strokes?Just curious?

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #658 on:** October 10, 2013, 03:54:35 pm »

I know my 250 gets a little finicky when it cools off

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #659 on:** October 10, 2013, 04:33:24 pm »

Fooled around with the air screw tonight. Bike was starting on 1st kick every time (4 primers and 1 kick ignition from cold). So I'd screw the air screw in and it wouldn't change anything then I'd blip the throttle and it would level off and idle real low and nice like it was about to stall so I screwed in the slide set screw a little blipped the throttle and idle would race, unscrew the idle screw and it would still race. After fooling with it for about 10 mins or so I realized I never checked the clamps on the carb. The front one was tight but barely tight so I tightened them all down and now the damn thing won't start. I pulled the plug and this is what it looks like after last night and today's idle sessions. I'm pretty sure I had an air leak just by how irradic it was acting to me tuning the air screw and idle screw. And now with all the clamps and reed boot bolts really tight it won't start.

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #660 on:** October 10, 2013, 04:40:40 pm »

fatten it up, choke her, give her some go thumb and KICK IT LIKE YA MEAN IT!!!! Or loosen a clamp, get it started, and then tighten them and keep it running the time lol

Rainman56 · « **Reply #661 on:** October 10, 2013, 05:11:33 pm »

What carb you running and jetting?

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #662 on:** October 10, 2013, 05:16:43 pm »

I'm gonna bump the pilot to a 27.5 and drop my clip down one notch. Think my 580 main is right or should I go up or down with it?

A stock Zilla mikuni tm38 bored to 41.5mm.

LT250RWV · « **Reply #663 on:** October 10, 2013, 05:18:47 pm »

Did you ever do a leak down test after you put the motor together.

Rider414 · « **Reply #664 on:** October 10, 2013, 05:22:21 pm »

Only change one jetting circuit at a time. Leave the main jet alone for now. Leave the needle alone until you can get it to start and idle correctly.

Rainman56 · « **Reply #665 on:** October 10, 2013, 05:33:54 pm »

I thought the Mikunis ran a leaner pilot than 27.5 but I could be wrong?22.5 to 25 is what I,ve heard but everyone is different.If its cooler out now maybe you do need to go up a tad.Running the pilot a tad rich is supposed to make them easier to start.

Gillio · « **Reply #666 on:** October 10, 2013, 05:36:42 pm »

Get the idle circuit work right first. Then ride it in 3rd or so and hold the throttle at a constant opening in the mid range and see what it does. If it trys to run away or surge, drop the clip. If it spits and sputters raise the clip. Then get into WOT plug chops.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #667 on:** October 10, 2013, 05:38:24 pm »

Brian- no I did not my dads friend has a professional leak down setup. I'm gonna see if he'll bring it over but gotta get exhaust plugs and intake plugs.

And thanks for the info Matt and Gillio! I'd be completely lost without you guys help.

Rainman it started with a 22.5 pilot and a 380 main I got my jetting and needle clip and air screw recommended setup from Jerry.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #668 on:** October 14, 2013, 08:25:51 am »

Been sick since Thursday so haven't gotten any tuning done on the bike. So I spent the first 10 mins of my son's nap time today drawing up a wheelie bar. Cost should be around $135 for the materials plus the wheel cost and the cost of the steel to make the mounting plates. Gonna use heims for the wheel mount and the bottom two mounting points and a clevis for the top mounting location.

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #669 on:** October 14, 2013, 08:40:30 am »

I believe that is going to be too short. Cunnigham can give more precise info but I believe that the wheelie bar has to be the same length as the machine or something like that so as to keep pressure on the rear end.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #670 on:** October 14, 2013, 08:49:43 am »

It's not drawn to scale CJ it's just a sketch I still need to do all the measurements but I quoted the materials on a rough idea of how long of tubes I'll need. It will be my bikes stock wheel base plus about 6-8".

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #671 on:** October 14, 2013, 09:45:04 am »

Oh ok lmao makes sense now,,, you gotta make sure to cut sight windows in the top plate so you can see the chain adjustment marks so you know the axle is pulled back square though. Don't forget about them bro!!

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #672 on:** October 14, 2013, 10:17:16 am »

They're in my drawing just hard to see cause its in pen and I drew over them to illustrate the top mounting point.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #673 on:** October 16, 2013, 06:18:39 pm »

Swapped out pilot jets bumped it up from a 25 to a 27.5. Gonna be taking the dual gasser off cause the throttle cable is to long and is too difficult to try and set the slide hieght and still be able to get WOT without throttle slack. Will be putting the stock throttle back on gotta order grips and a cable. Here's it idling after the pilot jet switch air screw needed turned in another 1/4-1/2 turn. Got the cops called so shut it down for the night. Also forgot to turn my damn phone sideways again.

Rider414 · « **Reply #674 on:** October 16, 2013, 06:32:02 pm »

What happens to the idle when you start turning the air screw IN?

Still sounds like it hanging and lean. So close!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Author Topic: My First 88 LT500 Build (Read 38471 times)

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