My First 88 LT500 Build

• #875 Reply
  Posted by MotorGeek - Jerry Hall on 21 Jun, 2015 22:11
• Quote from: Buckeye513 on 21 Jun, 2015 17:42

  Thanks for the info Glamis and yes it's getting plated top and bottom to reinforce it all. It's exactly to a T a +4 and no way to screw or up because of how I had the blocks milled.
  

  
  I would hollow out the machined insert to reduce the stress at  the welds.  The machined insert needs to have a similar amount of flex as the rest of the extruded aluminum side rails of the OEM swing arm to prevent stress risers at the edge of the welds.  Those solid machined inserts are not going to flex but the extruded side rails will flex causing it to break where the flexing stops.
  
  I would make a heavy steel jig to hold the swing arm in alignment while it is welded.  I will distort while it is being welded causing the swingarm bolt alignment and axle to not be parallel.
  
  I learned the above the hard way many years ago. 
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• #876 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 22 Jun, 2015 12:40
• Motorgeek, we have 2" of solid aluminum inserted into each opening of the cut stock tubes which will get anchor welded on three sides on each end both tubes. Then going to overlap it all with plating for added strength. It will be welded in a jig by a guy that's been welding aluminum for 35 years and been instructing a welding class for 20 years so I know the welds will be done right and hold. My buddy that had the pieces machined for me is an engineer and every simulation he's ran says it will hold up to a ton of abuse. If it does break I can always have it rewelded plus I still have my stock polished swingarm that will be shelved if need be.
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• #877 Reply
  Posted by Cunningham_821 on 22 Jun, 2015 14:50
• What he is saying is you dont want the aluminum solid and i agree when the swingarm flex's and it will flex. It will crack at the welds because of the inserts being solid aluminum.
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• #878 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 22 Jun, 2015 14:53
• There's a guy in Oregon running the same exact extension without the web/center plate reinforcement for over a year with no issues.
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• #879 Reply
  Posted by Zilla273 on 23 Jun, 2015 06:44
• buck. i might have a stock+6 arm for sale soon, ran two seasons no issues and its polished
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• #880 Reply
  Posted by MotorGeek - Jerry Hall on 23 Jun, 2015 08:01
• Quote from: Buckeye513 on 22 Jun, 2015 12:40

  Motorgeek, we have 2" of solid aluminum inserted into each opening of the cut stock tubes which will get anchor welded on three sides on each end both tubes. Then going to overlap it all with plating for added strength. It will be welded in a jig by a guy that's been welding aluminum for 35 years and been instructing a welding class for 20 years so I know the welds will be done right and hold. My buddy that had the pieces machined for me is an engineer and every simulation he's ran says it will hold up to a ton of abuse. If it does break I can always have it rewelded plus I still have my stock polished swingarm that will be shelved if need be.
  

  
  The 2" of solid aluminum fitting tightly into the existing side rails, appeals to common sense and helps in getting the approximate alignment, but actually adds very little to the strength in the weld zones.  The plates added to the bottom of the side rails is the component that adds strength for stresses created when hitting bumps and jumping when the rear wheels have equal loads.  Plates added to the sides and top add strength for the stresses created when the swing arm is twisted when one wheel takes more load than the other.   
  
    What thickness of plate, alloy of the plate and welding rod alloy are you going to use?
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• #881 Reply
  Posted by Glamisrider on 23 Jun, 2015 20:07
• I say go for it and see what happens.
  
  I don't think Buckeye does much high stress dune riding, it's mostly drag racing and trail.
  
  And worse case if it breaks it'll just need to be re-welded and re engineered.
  
  Lets see pics when it's done.
  
  
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• #882 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 24 Jun, 2015 09:20
• I'm with you Glamisrider, I don't ever dune ride rarely ever jump unless I launch it off the top of a hill climb. All I primarily do with the bike is drag race and go on a few weekend trail riding excursions which I mostly just do hill climbs and ride leisurely because it's usually a big group. I don't know the plate thickness off the top of my head and I haven't asked the guy who will be welding it what wire he will use. Having only $100 invested in it if it breaks and needs rewelded at some point or reengineered I'm not going to be mad or upset in the least.
  
  Definitely will post finished product pics hopefully I can get some pics while it's being welded too.
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• #883 Reply
  Posted by Q2W on 24 Jun, 2015 11:31
• FYI, I just replaced my chain on my +4 bike and had to cut 4 lengths out of a 120 chain.  So 116 should be about what you need.
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• #884 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 24 Jun, 2015 13:26
• What gearing Q2W? I'm running 14-42 but may drop to 13-42
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• #885 Reply
  Posted by Q2W on 24 Jun, 2015 13:45
• my duner setup is 14/45
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• #886 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 24 Jun, 2015 18:02
• Where'd you get the 45 rear sprocket from? And do you run the oem sprocket hub?
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• #887 Reply
  Posted by Q2W on 25 Jun, 2015 06:16
• OEM hub.  I use sprocket specialist.  Just call'em up.
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• #888 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 03 Jul, 2015 05:43
• Swinger is all together! So now big question should I polish it and clear coat it or bondo the imperfections out and paint it black?
  
  
  
  
  
  
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• #889 Reply
  Posted by ZillaFreak on 03 Jul, 2015 08:56
• scuff it and rattle can black. Wouldn't waste the time prepping it or Polishing it till it is pass testing.
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• #890 Reply
  Posted by Skeans1 on 03 Jul, 2015 10:33
• I'd be tempted to take a hole saw to the solid block to lighten it up some more.
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• #891 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 03 Jul, 2015 14:53
• I'm not worried about the extra weight of the solid blocks it's only maybe 2lbs heavier than it was prior to the stretch.
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• #892 Reply
  Posted by ZillaFreak on 06 Jul, 2015 06:40
• no need to worry about weight, just take a nice poo before you ride or just make more power.
  
  When will we get a ride report?
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• #893 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 06 Jul, 2015 13:16
• Hopefully have it mounted up this week and racing at dirt country with it Saturday so hopefully Sunday I'll have a performance review and what not. My stock rear brake line has a lot of slack with my rear end lowered does anyone know if I'll for sure need a longer rear brake line with the +4?
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• #894 Reply
  Posted by Zilla273 on 06 Jul, 2015 18:06
• when i extended mine plus 6, i weighed it before and after. went from 10.2 to 13.1, mines not solid though. if i had to guess id say yours is  5-6lbs more, not to bad though 
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• #895 Reply
  Posted by Zilla273 on 06 Jul, 2015 18:07
• your stock brake line will work, im using stock on my plus6
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• #896 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 07 Jul, 2015 21:58
• Bringing back memories tonight tearing into swapping this swinger!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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• #897 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 11 Jul, 2015 04:54
• Well it fought tooth and nail going back together (probably because all the coats of paint on the mounting points) but I finally have my +4 installed the wheel base is 1" shorter than my buddies +8 banshee lol.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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• #898 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 13 Jul, 2015 08:25
• No ride report rained out all races for this weekend and won't be able to race next weekend due to work. I will get it out at some point over the next couple weeks and rip on it to see how the +4 feels compared to the stock swinger.
  
  Back to back with my buddies 421 cub +8 banshee.
  
  
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• #899 Reply
  Posted by Cunningham_821 on 16 Jul, 2015 04:48
• Something wrong with that pic... almost looks like that pretty zilla had a big giant wart growing off its ass..
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