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#625 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 07 Oct, 2013 19:26
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So when I'm doing this grinding on the flywheel and crank with the valve grinding compound should I put the flywheel on and just apply pressure with my hand and spin the wheel by hand or should I use a wheel holder and have my brother put pressure on it and kick the bike over to spin the crank inside the flywheel? My thought is I'm gonna generate more grinding friction and speed by kicking it over and holding the flywheel stationary but I don't know if that might do to much grinding.
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Do not spin it one direction by kicking it over. You need to apply just enough pressure to keep the two tapers fully seated against each other while rotating it back and forth.
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#627 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 07 Oct, 2013 19:41
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Thank you Mr Hall! So basically just work it back and forth with pressure on the front of the flywheel. Anyway I will be able to know when it's good or done?
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After 30 seconds to a minute of lapping, wipe the taper on the crankshaft and the inside taper of the flywheel with a rag to remove all of the lapping compound. Look at the tapers, they should show witness marks where the two tapers have been mating. If it looks like the two tapers are mating well place the flywheel on the crankshaft and use the same lapping motion for a few seconds with out any valve grinding compound (dry lapping metal to metal). Dry lapping will break down any abrasive compounds that me be embedded into the surface of the tapers, Wipe the tapers clean and place the flywheel on the crankshaft and feel if the flywheel will rock or wobble on the crank taper. If any wobble can be felt between the two tapers, repeat the whole process again and again until the two tapers are exactly the same taper.
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#629 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 08 Oct, 2013 06:45
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When you say rock or wobble do you mean if I press on the outside edge of the flywheel it shouldn't dip or move right?
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When you say rock or wobble do you mean if I press on the outside edge of the flywheel it shouldn't dip or move right?
Press on the flywheel in the area where the puller screws into the flywheel to lightly check how well the tapers seat against each other.
We are trying to determine if the two tapers fit each other perfectly
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#631 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 08 Oct, 2013 08:52
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Ok I'll be tackling this tonight hopefully.
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#632 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 08 Oct, 2013 17:21
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#633 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 08 Oct, 2013 20:11
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So since my flywheel problems are hopefully behind me I'm in need of help with tuning. Bike will start but only when given throttle and won't idle once started without giving it gas. I set the throttle slide up enough to fit a 1/8" drill bit under it but to hold it that high the throttle screw had to be all the way in. Wondering if my jetting is to rich or if there's a possible problem with my throttle cable not being tight enough to pull the slide up.
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#634 Reply
Posted by
Q2W
on 09 Oct, 2013 06:31
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Your slide height needs to only be set 2.5-3mm. Should only take a few turns. You also need to adjust the throttle cable so that the slide just touches the idle screw. No slack.
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#635 Reply
Posted by
Chuckie25
on 09 Oct, 2013 06:45
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i generally adjust my throttle cable first,,, back the idle adjustment screw all the way out, then adjust in the cable until i've got slack. then adjust it to where its only got the tiniest bit of slack,, start the bike and hold the throttle to where you want it to idle (i prefer a lower idle and will probably be told im messing my bike up by doing it that way or something). start turning in the idle adjustment knob until the rpm raises, turn it back out slowly until its where you want it. bump the throttle a couple times and make sure it goes back to the idle you wanted
I wouldnt mess with any of the jetting or anything until after you have everything else worked out for sure! The flywheel slack could have been what was causing your problems. go and fix that and it may be perfect now. but if you screw with the carb you wont know lol
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#636 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 09 Oct, 2013 08:01
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Thanks guys for the input so what I'm describing is more a lack of air or too much fuel than a lean condition correct?
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#637 Reply
Posted by
Iceracer
on 09 Oct, 2013 16:46
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Slides too high, any time it won't run without throttle its rich. If it races hangs or runs away its lean. Set your air screw at 2 turns out. Get the slide set rite. Go smaller on the pilot until it will run then dial in the air screw. In should lower the idle out should raise it. If you get no effect it way off or carb circuits are plugged and need to be Cleaned
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#638 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 09 Oct, 2013 19:18
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She lives!!!
http://youtu.be/jfMLHURiXe4Pops hitting the throttle
http://youtu.be/dSzAdKcLokQLast one
http://youtu.be/oRCWu_knzkcAll shot with my damn phone virtically so the video quality and screen size sucks balls. Let me know if it sounds funny or anything, this is the first fire every other time I've started it it would run for a few seconds then shear the flywheel key. Thank you so much Jerry for telling me how to fix that problem I took it for a quick first gear ride around our parking lot and holy shiznit is it fast especially compared to what it used to be.
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#639 Reply
Posted by
Dezsled
on 09 Oct, 2013 19:42
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Congratulations!
Sounds great, other than the rpms hanging after you blip the throttle & high idle.
Looks great
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#640 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 09 Oct, 2013 19:47
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Yeah Dez the idle screw vibrated out cause I had it adjusted all the way out and was trying to set the slide heighth with the throttle cable and forgot I had the screw backed all the way out and when I took it for a spin the idle set screw is now gone. As far as it hanging how do I adjust that? Bump the pilot up a size? It's got a 25 pilot right now.
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#641 Reply
Posted by
Dezsled
on 09 Oct, 2013 19:55
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Hanging idle I'd tighten the carb clamps & check for an intake leak. Then I would raise the needle one clip if that didn't help. After that then I'd go up one on the pilot.
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#642 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 09 Oct, 2013 20:08
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I will do all of that tomorrow. Thanks Dez I assume you got my email right? Also does anyone have an idle set screw and spring for a TM38 mikuni?
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#643 Reply
Posted by
Rider414
on 09 Oct, 2013 20:36
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Your so close man!! Idle sounds like it is hanging abit/lean. Get an air screw and see if screwing it "in" richens it up at all.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyWrQhXgPn8This is my idle. Its more relaxed. Can you hear the difference?
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#644 Reply
Posted by
QuadMan8
on 09 Oct, 2013 21:07
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Hay Buck--who makes your front bumper--nice
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#645 Reply
Posted by
Chuckie25
on 09 Oct, 2013 21:27
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Holy
**** ABOUT TIME!!!!! Sweet!!!! Just get her fattened up a bit (I hate the soud of a lean rap out....) and she will be good to go!!!
When I was changing my throttles out the other day I decided to drop my needle a clip and hooollleeeeyyyyyy crap it was really lean sounding and I couldn't kill it fast enough..
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#646 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 10 Oct, 2013 02:27
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Matt- I have an air screw its at 2 turns out from seated it's my idle/slide screw that fell out and is now missing. And that's what I was thinking that it was lean. I have the needle on the second clip position might that be why it's lean as well? With the choke on it will barely stay idling when I started it. I've never tuned a carb so all this is learning for me.
Mike- I have no clue I think it's called an armodillo it has an A cut out on each side where it mounts at. I bought it off a member on here the guy that owns the "pure Irish hell" Zilla (can't think of his name for the life of me)
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#647 Reply
Posted by
Motoman991
on 10 Oct, 2013 04:56
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I saw the text you sent me. You finally got it running! About time!
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#648 Reply
Posted by
Motoman991
on 10 Oct, 2013 04:57
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It only took 27 pages lol.
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#649 Reply
Posted by
Buckeye513
on 10 Oct, 2013 05:08
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There's a lot of mumbo jumbo mixed into those 27 pages too my man. Like you posting page 25 like 4 or 5 times! Lol
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