are u making sure the flywheel is seated before torqueing??
the crank seal poping out would be a separate issue id say. did u put grease or oil on crank seals when installing??
I didn't replace the crank seals. I didn't do anything to the bottom end on this engine. And I'm pretty sure the flywheel is seated. I'm not torquing it I'm using an impact gun on the retainer nut.
How old are the crank seals? Cheap to replace compared to a melt down.
I was told if your having trouble kicking it over, slightly ... Slightly rotate the stator ccw. I never did it so I don't know if that works...
Good to see u back
hmmm, that's od the crank seal walked out.. did the engine vibrate badly? I wonder if u should check the crank being bent on flywheel end, possibly when flywheel was removed the crank got tweeked.
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The taper on the crankshaft or the taper inside the flywheel are damaged or not the exact same angle. If it shears the flywheel key it usually messes up one or both of these tapered surfaces. Remove the key and use valve grinding compound to lap these two tapered surfaces so that they are an exact match. Thoroughly clean the valve grind compound off the shaft and inside the flywheel, install the key and torque the nut to about 50 to 55 ft lbs.
A picture tells a thousand words. Got any of the stator assembly and flywheel ?
Nothing more than what I already took Gillio my dads fab guy took my flywheel overnight to make me a holding tool so I can torque it down.
Jerry I will do that after I post some pictures of the keyway tomorrow so I can get an opinion on whether I should replace the flywheel or not.
The crank case seal only came out the one time it was when I had the mount spacers wrong and broke the motor mounts and shot the flywheel into my stator cover.
Dez I'd imagine they're not original because the connecting rod is a hot rods connecting rod. I may try that stator trick but I'm thinking instead having a compression release put in my spare cylinder head when I have it milled and cut for o rings.
Derrick how is that CF hood coming. Have you had a chance to even start on it. Im wanting a black and blue cf weave hood.
Mike haven't started on the hood yet my stator cover should be done in the next week or so hopefully. Because this is all being done for cost of materials for me I'm not hassling the guy on time but now he has a mold for the stator cover so those should crank out relatively quick going forward. The hood he hasn't looked at yet but if he wants to make a mold for it I would guess it will be on a month or two timeline for the first hood then a week to two weeks timeline there after. He's doing this in his spare time at work using left over company materials for the molds which is why it's so time consuming.
Buck is he making a completly new one out of just CF or is he wrappping the original ?? (for both the stator cover and hood)
Completely made out of carbon fiber on the stator cover not sure on the hood yet because he hasn't seen it to decide what he wants to do.
Nothing more than what I already took Gillio my dads fab guy took my flywheel overnight to make me a holding tool so I can torque it down.
Jerry I will do that after I post some pictures of the keyway tomorrow so I can get an opinion on whether I should replace the flywheel or not.
The crank case seal only came out the one time it was when I had the mount spacers wrong and broke the motor mounts and shot the flywheel into my stator cover.
Dez I'd imagine they're not original because the connecting rod is a hot rods connecting rod. I may try that stator trick but I'm thinking instead having a compression release put in my spare cylinder head when I have it milled and cut for o rings.
The fit between the two tapers and the torque on the nut is what keeps the flywheel from slipping on the crank. The key is just for assembly alignment so that the flywheel is installed in time with the crank. Once the nut is torque the key does not serve any purpose!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keys are not very strong and will shear instantly when the tapers stop carrying the load.
Awesome info Jerry very much appreciated had the hub on my wheel welded too so I'll be getting some of that valve grinding compound and doing as you said to do. Just layer it on the crank and inside the hub and spin the wheel around a few times? Btw found down the impeller shaft like you suggested no leaks anymore from my water pump.
Jerry since that crank seal popped out should I replace it instead of just pushing it back in like I did?
Jerry since that crank seal popped out should I replace it instead of just pushing it back in like I did?
I would replace it just to be safe. The sheared key probably caused the engine to backfire because the timing was way off and blew the crank seal out of the case. The seal on the clutch side may also be blown out of the case. A backfire sometimes breaks the reeds. Check your reeds for damage.
Will do all of that. It did back fire a couple of times thanks again for the information. Can I ask you opinion on slightly retarding the timing on the stator to make start up easier like Dez mentioned earlier?
I would also make you key way is seating all the way into the groove. If its sitting higher than stock ( for what ever reason) it won't seat on the taper properly. I've seen this on homemade keys. Had a crank get trashed on a parts 250 because the. Homemade key didn't fit right and it got impacted on anyways.
Ok Gillio ill double check for that once my new keys get here next week from Suzuki and I do what Jerry recommended.
Will do all of that. It did back fire a couple of times thanks again for the information. Can I ask you opinion on slightly retarding the timing on the stator to make start up easier like Dez mentioned earlier?
You would have to retard the timing 5 deg. or more to keep it from "kicking Back". Retarding the timing more than a degree or two hurts the power.
How much power loss are we talking about? 1%? 5%? 10%? Rough estimate say I'm making 60 hp.
How much power loss are we talking about? 1%? 5%? 10%? Rough estimate say I'm making 60 hp.
Retarding the timing a couple of degrees will loose at least 2 to 3 HP on most of these engines. Retarding the ignition timing also raises the exhaust temperature. Raising the exhaust temperature increases the possibility of burning the piston on the exhaust port side of the piston as well as hurting torque and shifting the whole power curve higher up in the RPM scale.
So long story short don't do that
****! Lol I'll just have a compression release put in my head when I get it cut and o ringed.
Got my flywheel hub welded is there anyway to test to make sure its Still balanced?
Got my flywheel hub welded is there anyway to test to make sure its Still balanced?
Run it an see how it feels or find someone with a dynamic balancer and a mandrel that will allow them to dynamically balance it.