Author Topic: My First 88 LT500 Build (Read 38412 times)

QuadMan8 · « **Reply #475 on:** August 27, 2013, 09:45:03 am »

I will probably go through the same grounding issues when and if I ever get around to putting my bike back together. questions

Where are the grounding points and wires?

On a fresh power coated and chromed bike---I gather I need to remove PC down to some bare metal. does this apply to chrome as well or can I leave chrome on?

I recall the cdi box up by the radiator had a small wire coming off and what looked like grounded to the frame. Is this one of the grounds you are talking about.

? when you say ground the motor--do you mean at the front motor mounts--meaning remove PC where the motor mounts touch the frame side and the motor side of the mount. My mounts are chrome. Do I need to remove any chrome from the mount where it touches the frame and motor?

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #476 on:** August 27, 2013, 11:58:23 am »

Yes the CDI is behind the radiator it has one mounting screw and I scraped off powder at that screws location and put both of my grounds there. Don't think I got enough powder off or maybe having both of the grounds on the same location is a bad idea. I'm not 100% positive but I believe chrome is a conductor and therefore could be grounded to but I'm not sure so you shouldn't have to remove any chrome plating to get a good grounding surface. You absolutely need to expose bare metal to ground to any part that is powder coated. Paint an powder coating as well as ceramic coatings are not conductive therefore not usable for a ground.

Q2W · « **Reply #477 on:** August 27, 2013, 01:22:55 pm »

The thing to do is map out your grounding locations prior to PC then put a bolt and washer at those points. When you remove the bolts and washers after PC, you'll have a real nice spot for grounding.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #478 on:** August 27, 2013, 02:29:42 pm »

It was the ground but it still isn't starting but its firing every kick almost at least smoking every kick. Wasn't doing anything close to that before.

Nopick · « **Reply #479 on:** August 27, 2013, 02:38:30 pm »

Quote from: Q2W on August 27, 2013, 01:22:55 pm

The thing to do is map out your grounding locations prior to PC then put a bolt and washer at those points. When you remove the bolts and washers after PC, you'll have a real nice spot for grounding.

I did not do that so I had to clean them up. An 80 grit sanding drum on a Dremel worked well for me.

Have you checked continuity from a head bolt to an engine mount bolt? If I remember correctly, Rogue1970 actually put a ground strap from a head bolt to his frame (maybe a head stay mount) to cure his grounding problems.

Rider414 · « **Reply #480 on:** August 27, 2013, 08:19:46 pm »

Where is Larry aka Rogue1970?

QuadMan8 · « **Reply #481 on:** August 27, 2013, 08:47:53 pm »

Not heard a peep from him on here for 6 months or more.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #482 on:** August 28, 2013, 04:09:31 am »

He did my rendering using a picture of your bike Rider and I think I got pretty close to the exact look from the rendering minus the seat being different. I emailed him about that through the site haven't heard from him on here in a long time.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #483 on:** August 28, 2013, 09:48:32 am »

Had my air screw out 3 turns tightened it down to seated and backed it out a turn and a half kicked a couple times no go. This **** driving me bonkers and is getting pull started as soon as my new shift lever gets here.

Nopick · « **Reply #484 on:** August 28, 2013, 09:50:22 am »

Quote from: Rider414 on August 27, 2013, 08:19:46 pm

Where is Larry aka Rogue1970?

I PMed him while at Glamis last year. He didn't reply for quite a while but said work had him swamped...

QuadMan8 · « **Reply #485 on:** August 28, 2013, 10:36:07 am »

Buck--you say you had your carb bored by MHR and you got your jets from HPR. I would guess your jetting to be correct from jerry. Yes the Q pipe runs smaller jets than the HPR. Even if your mains are off it should not make a difference on starting. I would not trust that MHR cleaned the carb. I would guess that at MHR (based on pictures I have seen of what he sent others) that the carb is full of crap. Did you yourself clean the carb. By clean I mean every little air/fuel whole and passage shot with carb cleaner, blown out with compressed air, I have had to remove air screws and really clean/blow out that passage. If you have spark/ground I would have to think its air/fuel. I would guess by now you have done it but one plugged passage can cause this.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #486 on:** August 28, 2013, 10:39:58 am »

I did it when I got the carb back 2 months ago but it sat around since then. I'm gonna pull it and blast it out again with cleaner and air. And it was dirty as hell when it came back from MHR full of metal shavings and done like it was some hack that had never done it before.

Motoman991 · « **Reply #487 on:** August 28, 2013, 10:46:24 am »

Spray some starting fluid in there and see if it even fires.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #488 on:** August 28, 2013, 10:51:05 am »

It's firing now at least it's pumping out smoke. And it's almost started a few times.

Dezsled · « **Reply #489 on:** August 28, 2013, 11:05:47 am »

If its close to kick starting, bump starting it should be easy

Rider414 · « **Reply #490 on:** August 28, 2013, 11:52:07 am »

It does sound like a dirty carb.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #491 on:** August 28, 2013, 12:02:31 pm »

Pulled the carb everything was clean I recleaned it anyway. Jetted it down to 25 pilot and 580 main. Still firing but not starting. Should I have my idle set screw all the way out or screwed in to what point?

Rider414 · « **Reply #492 on:** August 28, 2013, 01:55:54 pm »

You want to be able to fit a 1/8" drill bit between the slide and carb body at 0% throttle.

This is the general starting point for slide height/idle screw.

QuadMan8 · « **Reply #493 on:** August 28, 2013, 02:43:50 pm »

Buck, Just to give you a point of reference on my jetting for a 42 mikuni with agressive dune porting and a Q pipe- and I am at 5000 feet.
My pilot is 30---I have read that on the zillas a pilot jet on the fat side is easier to start than one thats on the lean side
Main jets are 450 with no air box and 9" filter. I dont think a fat main will have effect on starting (but it may) but you are going to be way fat on that 580 main. Ask kenners or rider 414 what they run jetting on their Q pipes. Seams everything I have read the Q pipes do not runtheir best with 550 600 mains like some the HPR pipes. Float heights OK? Carb filling with fuel? Bad Plug?--just thinking outloud.

After my rebuilds or if it sits for month with out riding I have to tow it around behind another atv or car in third gear 50 to 100 feet to get it to fire and clean out--then it runs and starts great. Tow that Biatch.

Rider414 · « **Reply #494 on:** August 28, 2013, 02:55:10 pm »

I have a HPR bored Mikuni, HPR ported jug, Open Air Filter (No Box) and a DRQ V2 Pipe. My main jetting is between 590 to 620.

Summer it likes the 590 main. I am just north of Bucky Buckeye.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #495 on:** August 28, 2013, 03:58:48 pm »

My jetting was recommended by Jerry based on my engine set up.

Ohhhh and... IT FINALLY **** STARTED!!!! Pardon my language Mitch and all the other MODs I'm just elated with joy!!!

So it fired up and we were in the very back room of our shop which has no ventilation and a bunch of fabric that can't smell like 2 stroke so my brother pushed me out through our other two bays and out the door. I adjusted the idle so it was idling a little high cause I was worried about it stalling. I then let it idle for about a minute. My brother was as excited as I was and said it sounded awesome so I goosed the throttle a couple times taking the rpms up and after the second time when the rpms came back down it sputtered then stalled. Tried to get it started again but it kicked back real hard on me twice and I said eff it now I know it starts and will run I'm pulling it once my gear shifter arrives.

On another note that I didn't even think of till tonight. When I pulled my cylinder and stuff the crank case had a fair amount of old two stroke oil and fuel still in it. Well I didn't split my cases and I never turned the motor upside down with the cylinder off to drain that gunk out. So I'm thinking that old (now 8 months old) gunky oil and fuel is probably contributing to why this things so hard to start. Just me thinking out loud.

QuadMan8 · « **Reply #496 on:** August 28, 2013, 05:11:07 pm »

AWESOME----Yah I bet your dad would not appreciate all his fabric smelling like "good times" Just clamp some vice grips on that shift shaft and go tear up the neighborhood. LOL Now you can say it ran and find you phase two mods and work on it another 6 months. So glad she fired up

Dezsled · « **Reply #497 on:** August 28, 2013, 05:21:16 pm »

Great news! Awesome to hear your Zilla has come to life...

Nice work buck!

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #498 on:** August 28, 2013, 05:24:53 pm »

My dad said I got it this far let's just take it to a professional to have it tuned so its easier and more consistent to start. I said bullshit once the shifter gets here we'll pull start it and do heat cycles and hopefully that will clean it out so it gets easier to start.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #499 on:** August 28, 2013, 05:27:21 pm »

Btw I'm leaking coolant pretty good since it started. It's coming out of a tiny hole on the bottom of my water pump but I don't remember a bolt going in that hole and it doesn't look like its threaded. Any help is appreciated.

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Author Topic: My First 88 LT500 Build (Read 38412 times)

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