Author Topic: I've lost my click...... (Read 1142 times)

OldMan · « **on:** May 06, 2015, 10:26:42 am »

So a couple years back Glamisrider enlightened me out in Glamis on the secret of starting the Quadzilla.
Kick it slow until the "Whoooamp", bring it back up, push down until one single click is heard, bring it back up and give it. Since then its always been a 1 or 2 kick start for me.....until last weekend.
I put 120 miles on the Northern WI trails. Somewhere towards the end the clicks when pushing down on the kick starter disappeared.
While the kick starter does click coming up as usual there is NO click when I push down now. None at all.
While it still starts its much more of a guessing game now. I put on 20 miles after this happened and have noticed no power loss so it doesn't seem to be an engine issue.

Anyone have this happen to them before?

Glamisrider · « **Reply #1 on:** May 06, 2015, 11:15:49 pm »

I'm a little confused here you seem to be talking about the starting procedure then you talk about your shift lever having an issue and not clicking???

Can you please clarify; is the issue with the shift lever not "Clicking" when you down shift OR you're not feeling the resistance points when you push down the kick starter?

OldMan · « **Reply #2 on:** May 07, 2015, 02:50:25 am »

Too many beers i have edited my post.
I am not feeling the resistance points when I push down the kick starter.

RustBelt · « **Reply #3 on:** May 10, 2015, 05:03:17 am »

Did you take your clutch cover off and visually check the starter gear and spring?

OldMan · « **Reply #4 on:** May 10, 2015, 06:48:25 am »

I haven't done a thing. Just looking for ideas for what it could be.

Nopick · « **Reply #5 on:** May 10, 2015, 10:07:27 am »

If the kick start lever is ratcheting properly and you are not feeling the resistance points you are accustomed to as you roll the engine over, you have probably lost compression for some reason.

You should not hear any clicking when moving the kick starter towards the foot peg. Only on the return.

OldMan · « **Reply #6 on:** May 10, 2015, 10:29:11 am »

nopick i will check compression this week. When i bought this wheeler it had low compression but did not have this issue. The down kick didnt click but there were pressure points.

Nopick · « **Reply #7 on:** May 10, 2015, 11:21:47 am »

Does it just press down to the foot peg with little to no effort?

OldMan · « **Reply #8 on:** May 10, 2015, 12:30:11 pm »

It takes very little effort compared to before. Impossible to know tdc for easy starting. But still seems to have lots of power but maybe not as much as in the past.
Ill do a compression test tomorrow.

Nopick · « **Reply #9 on:** May 10, 2015, 08:34:05 pm »

I wonder if you broke a ring.

OldMan · « **Reply #10 on:** May 11, 2015, 07:57:28 am »

Warmed it up. Left the run switch off. Gas on throttle wide open. Best I could get was 95psi kicking the hell out of it.

OldMan · « **Reply #11 on:** May 11, 2015, 08:21:24 am »

I'm dropping it off at Hanson Racing and moving up to an 87mm piston. He will adjust and clear the power value as well. Hope to have it back together for the Memorial day ride.
I am going to also go back to a foam filter, oil and air box lid back on. I'd been running the AEM dryflow & outerwear with the lid off which couldn't have been good on my last ride as I'd never seen so much dust in my life!

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #12 on:** May 11, 2015, 08:31:14 am »

Quote from: OldMan on May 11, 2015, 08:21:24 am

I'm dropping it off at Hanson Racing and moving up to an 87mm piston. He will adjust and clear the power value as well. Hope to have it back together for the Memorial day ride.
I am going to also go back to a foam filter, oil and air box lid back on. I'd been running the AEM dryflow & outerwear with the lid off which couldn't have been good on my last ride as I'd never seen so much dust in my life!

Check your con rod clearance when the top end is off. Sucking dirt can also wear out the main and connecting rod bearings.

I do not like any type of dry air filter even though I still have a few customers than have not worn out enough engines to be convinced!!!!!

Nopick · « **Reply #13 on:** May 11, 2015, 11:05:51 am »

Have you found any traces of dirt in the intake tract?

OldMan · « **Reply #14 on:** May 11, 2015, 11:41:21 am »

Quote from: Nopick on May 11, 2015, 11:05:51 am

Have you found any traces of dirt in the intake tract?

There was some very fine something almost oily in the tube from the air box to the carb but the reeds and other side looked good. I have the SB air box adapter kit as I didn't feel safe with the stock air filter setup. I'd like to find some new clamps for both sides of the carb as I have them as tight as they go and it seems they could be tighter. I've yet to find a new hose clamp to fit the slim groove. I tried a set from a 2nd air box I bought but they are the same. When I power wash it I'm always afraid to blast the carburetor too hard.

OldMan · « **Reply #15 on:** May 11, 2015, 02:30:46 pm »

Well I'm proud of myself so I'm posting some pictures. First time taking the motor apart myself. If I'd not broke the exhaust valve plastic retainer it would have been perfect. Luckily that part is still available for only $1.20 and the small chunk that was lost hopefully won't be an issue.
Piston looks good actually.

OldMan · « **Reply #16 on:** May 11, 2015, 02:32:53 pm »

Base gasket looked bad up front but that could have been from taking it out. Took me a bit to get it.

OldMan · « **Reply #17 on:** May 12, 2015, 01:48:36 pm »

Motorgeek how does one check the check the con rod clearance when the top end is off? As long as it doesn't involve splitting the case I should be able to handle it.

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #18 on:** May 12, 2015, 03:34:51 pm »

Slide the connecting rod up against the left or right crank web. Position a dial indicator at the thrust washer surface on the wrist pin bearing end of the connecting rod. Without sliding the con rod on the big end of the crank pin, measure the left to right wobble of the wrist pin end of the rod.

The small end wobble on a new OEM rod is usually around .030" to .040". We find the small end wobble on most new Hot Rod connecting rod assemblies will fall in the .020 to .060" range. .020" is too tight for a modified or stock engine with a pipe. If I get a Hot Rod that has more than .050" when it is new, I send it back.............I do not know what they do with the rejects. Customers buy a lot of rod kits on ebay and send them to me to use to rebuild their cranks. Of these rod kits a lot of them are at the high end of the clearance range.

If the small end wobble is .060" to .070 there is not much life left in the con rod assembly. If the small end wobble is .080" or more, the con rod assembly needs to be replaced.

OldMan · « **Reply #19 on:** May 25, 2015, 04:27:11 pm »

Back to normal after a bore to 87mm
Popped my cherry and put my 1st piston ever in.
Sadly 40 miles into my first trip afterwards it locked up.
That after I spent the day putting in all new water pump parts because of a badly leaking weep hole.

I may sell it as is. As much as I love it I'm tired of working on it....

OldMan · « **Reply #20 on:** May 27, 2015, 06:47:22 pm »

Listed on craigslist in the morning. Had 7 inquires by noon. One offer for $1600 cash site unseen, One for a "nice" blaster and $300, One for an 03 KFX 400 plus $400 cash ended up getting $1800 for a non- running Quadzilla.

News:

Author Topic: I've lost my click...... (Read 1142 times)

Suzuki Quadracer HQ Store Zone