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TRANNY FLUID QUESTIONS
Posted by
All American
on 26 Sep, 2015 02:54
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How do you check the tyranny fluid level? My dip stick for the tranny has no stick on it to measure. No Windows to show you the level. Also, what is the best tranny fluid to run and how often should it be changed? And 1 last question, how do you drain the fluid tranny? Is there a drain plug or do you just take off cap and turn your four wheeler over? Lol
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#1 Reply
Posted by
Rainman56
on 26 Sep, 2015 08:16
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There is a drain plug on the bottom of the case.Make sure you have a gasket on it when you reinstall it.The fill cap doesn,t have a stick but the case is marked for 900ml.Just pour a liter in and your good as long as you have no leaks.As far as oil you,ll get a variety of answers.Some use Auto trans oil for cars.Others run 10w30 or 10w40 but made for motorcycles/wet clutches.DO NOT USE regular motor oil.
Search the thread as far as what to use for Trans oil or look in the manual.Also depends on what temp your riding in.I used to run Automobile trans oil and change it often but have switched to 10w40 kawi oil as it protects better and I have a bunch laying around.
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Well the best I have found is maxmia MTL (Stands for manual transmission lube).
They make it in 3 weights, 75 which is lite, 80 which is regular, and 85 which is heavy. I'd run the 80wt regular (MTL-R).
Now if maxmia is to expensive run a good quality type-f tranny fluid.
What ever you run, change it often, every 10 to 15 hours to keep all the particles cleaned out of the motor.
If you shop for the maximum on amazon it's only about $1 to $2 a qt difference from a good quality type F fluid.
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Well the best I have found is maxmia MTL (Stands for manual transmission lube).
They make it in 3 weights, 75 which is lite, 80 which is regular, and 85 which is heavy. I'd run the 80wt regular (MTL-R).
Now if maxmia is to expensive run a good quality type-f tranny fluid.
What ever you run, change it often, every 10 to 15 hours to keep all the particles cleaned out of the motor.
If you shop for the maximum on amazon it's only about $1 to $2 a qt difference from a good quality type F fluid.
I would change it more often than every 10 to 15 hours. With Suzuki's metallurgy I would drain it at the end of every weekend at the end of the last ride while it is hot.
If you wait until you get home most of the metal and clutch material will be stuck to the bottom of the cases. When it is hot most of the particles are suspended in the oil and will leave with the hot oil when it is drained.
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Money isn't a problem when it comes to my quadriceps. I only want the best for her. Thanks everybody.
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#5 Reply
Posted by
Hotbutta
on 01 Oct, 2015 13:08
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Then use Creatine.
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Looks like I'm going to be looking for some maxmia mtl 80. Now i just got to figure out how I'm going measuremout 900ml. I do own a funnel that has measurements labeled on it. Maybe it will have ml on it.
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I have a funnel from walmart thst has ml on it and it also has a shutoff valve built in. Makes fills pretty easy.
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#8 Reply
Posted by
Q2W
on 04 Nov, 2015 08:15
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How do you check the tyranny fluid level?
There is a screw on the side of the case near the the oil fill. If you back it off and no fluid comes out, you're low.
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#9 Reply
Posted by
Sublunacy
on 07 Nov, 2015 08:21
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.Some use Auto trans oil for cars.Others run 10w30 or 10w40 but made for motorcycles/wet clutches.DO NOT USE regular motor oil.
Search the thread as far as what to use for Trans oil or look in the manual.Also depends on what temp your riding in.
[/quote]
rainman is the only person that answered the question fairly.
4 stroke motorcycle oil is for gearboxes with multiplate wet clutches. ---
-- explain to me how it is not exactly correct please. i have had this conversation twice before. im allready loosing my temper.
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#10 Reply
Posted by
Gillio
on 07 Nov, 2015 18:59
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If you're losing your temper over Quadracer trans oil recommendations, you may wanna step back and rethink your direction in life...
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Oooops, I changed the oil in my 86' LT 230E. And I used auto 10W30 motor oil. I haven't started it. So can I drain it really good and put the correct oil in it and be safe?
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#12 Reply
Posted by
Sublunacy
on 08 Nov, 2015 10:23
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you might find clutch slippage problem now. correct oil and new clutch kit will fix it if that is true.
- cork clutches are good for dino oil. fiber clutch works ok with synthetic.
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if someone wants to illuminate me on using 80w im all ears. if your just going to point at specific brands im not listening.
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I run maxima Mtl 80w in summer time 75 in winter. It is made specifically for wet clutch systems.
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#14 Reply
Posted by
El Diablo
on 13 Nov, 2015 20:13
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Not sure if its fact or fiction, but some folks that run the ATF say to use the Type F and not the Dexron / Mercon stuff. Who knows?
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#15 Reply
Posted by
Sublunacy
on 14 Nov, 2015 09:41
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well im sorry if i was crude again. i have a dozen herniated discs wich mess me up but i still play hard.
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i have not warmed up to 80w for wet muliplate clutches because i have never looked for it local. i understand the service manual asks for 80w but im curious if any brand will do / or does it need to be a wet clutch type?
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i have not warmed up to 80w for wet muliplate clutches because i have never looked for it local. i understand the service manual asks for 80w but im curious if any brand will do / or does it need to be a wet clutch type?
[/quote]
Dude really. A few people already answered this on this thread!!! You need to use this thing called the internet and do some research. most major motorsports or powersports oil companies make 80w oil or something basically equivalent. Like Jerry already stated, frequent oil changes are more important than runing 20$ a quart oil.
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Oils like MTl 80wt does not have the viscosity of a true 80 wt like hypoid 80wt gearbox oil. If it did your clutch would probably slip until the oil temperature was well over 200 F deg. Two stroke transmissions seldom exceed 180 degrees even after long periods of hard riding
1. Our two stroke transmissions would have the longest gear life if we used the 90 wt to 140 wt hypoid transmission/differential oil but would also pay a high price in power loss with the transmission and clutch basket "churning" the thick oil.
2. Our multi-disk wet clutches would have the longest life and torque transmitting ability if they ran something like a 2 wt oil, but gear life would suffer.
The engineers at the major manufactures are aware of the two above facts and have found the best compromise of clutch life, gear life, clutch slippage and power loss is using one of the readily available thin multigrade engine oils but changing it frequently.
I think that marketing departments of the oil companies have created the "special oils for engines/transmissions" to have a reason to charge outrageously high prices for these "speciality oils" and to pacify the environmentalist that do not want us to ever change our oil so that we do not consume oil. The marketing departments of the major offroad manufactures are also becoming increasingly aware of the influence the environmentalist are having on the legislation and the power they have in closing down riding areas.
Honda has some of the best engineers and product testing programs on the planet. I do not think that they subscribe to the oil industries claims that they have special oils that will last for long periods of time in engines that share the same oil in the engine and gear box. If their testing proved that these speciality oils did what they claimed they would not be designing some of their racing engines that use two separate oil systems. One for the gear box and one for the engine oil.
Engines and transmissions that run under extreme load conditions need frequent oil changes regardless of the quality or cost of the oil.
I do not recall what Suzuki says to run in their LT two stroke transmissions but most engineering departments of the manufactures say to run 10w30 or 10w40 motor oil. I think that the marketing/public relations departments have the final say so when it comes to what is published in the owners and shop manuals.
Think about what you read in your shop manuals............ is it from the engineering department or the public relations department?
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Oooops, I changed the oil in my 86' LT 230E. And I used auto 10W30 motor oil. I haven't started it. So can I drain it really good and put the correct oil in it and be safe?
If I remember correctly the LT230E is a 4 stroke motor and it has a shared oil sump for the trans & the Motor?
If so You can run shell rotella 15/40 I run this in my yamaha 350 warrior with a shared sump.
If it's separate run the type F or Maxima MTL in the tranny and the 10/30 in the motor.
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What is it in our engines' metallurgy that makes us need to change the oil so often? Where do these particals come from?
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What is it in our engines' metallurgy that makes us need to change the oil so often? Where do these particals come from?
From the gears, clutch plates and where the tabs on the clutch plates rub in the clutch basket slots
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#21 Reply
Posted by
Sublunacy
on 18 Nov, 2015 17:12
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yea the clutch pads wear and it ends up in the oil.
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Is there an aftermarket clutch basket made of a superior metal...maybe a builder on here that offers one? Would it be ridiculously expensive to have a set of gears machined out of...I don't know, titanium or some other metal?
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#23 Reply
Posted by
ZillaFreak
on 19 Nov, 2015 06:15
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If you have to ask, it cost way too much.
A set of Titanium gears for a zilla would be around like $5K. And it would still have parts "flake off"
The man reason you change your oil is because of the clutch plates and fibers. They are made to wear so they grip. If you are worried about changing oil every ride (maybe because cost) but want custom gears, something isn't right.
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I can make gears in my shop but I do not have the type of heat treating oven it takes to properly heat treat and case harden gears.
Heat treating gears takes many hours in a special type of heat treating oven. Heat treaters charge by the hour for oven use whether the oven has one part or a hundred in it. This makes small batches of gears unaffordable.
Titanium is too soft and cannot be heat treated to a hardness that is required for gears.
I see three problems with Suzuki's gears:
1. The feed rate on the gear hobbing machines appears to be set on high resulting in a very rough surface on the gear teeth or the hobbing cutters they are using need to be of a better design .
2. The gears blanks appear to be cast and I think that the material is not as good as it should be.
3. The case hardening thickness is not consistent from one batch of gears to the next.
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