Author Topic: Got a Clutch Issue (Read 3988 times)

Dutch_Rutter · « **on:** September 18, 2015, 11:06:47 pm »

Alright guys so I've been dealing with this for a bit. when I pull the clutch in and shift into 1st the bike jumps forward. After riding and coming to a stop the bike will not come to a complete stop without dying. I thought My cable was out of adjustment. so I pulled that clutch arm as tight as possible which made the bike act as though the clutch was constantly engaged all the time.

I believe that I did not get the bolts that hold the springs against the clutch pack to where they should be. I also believe that I need to loosen them up in order to correct this issue. My question is this: how do I know how tight or how loose these bolts should be?

If I cant get this fixed soon it'll be going to the shop to get taken care of.

Thanks

Mtsnieg · « **Reply #1 on:** September 19, 2015, 05:55:53 pm »

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/ATV/1990/LT250R/CLUTCH+%28MODEL+H-J-K-L-M-N%29/parts.html

I tighten them all down real good. They bottom out or the head tightens down. Part number 10 above. If not I would think they'd back out and cause a nitemare. My 89 used to kinda act like yours, but it wouldn't kill the engine. I screwed around adjusting the cable for a bit and now I can start it, pull the clutch lever and throw it inta first and the rpms drop like 500, barely noticeable, it its warmed up no drop.

LT500Kid · « **Reply #2 on:** September 19, 2015, 07:15:55 pm »

Could be clutch cable adjustment.

All American · « **Reply #3 on:** September 20, 2015, 05:41:23 am »

Sounds like everybody is saying the same thing...

Quote from: LT500Kid on September 19, 2015, 07:15:55 pm

Could be clutch cable adjustment.

That should be an easy thing to do first before you dig into the motor.

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #4 on:** September 20, 2015, 07:35:36 am »

The clutch spring bolts must be tight or they will back out and cut a 6" diameter hole in the clutch cover.

A clutch that does not fully release (still transmits a little power when the clutch lever is pulled in) is usually due to one or a combination of the following:

1. Warped clutch plates, steel or fiber.

2. The inner basket does not rotate freely after the clutch shaft nut is tightened and before the clutch plates are installed. (bearing sleeve is too short or the heavy washers on each side are worn)

3. The clutch plates are not moving far enough from each other when the clutch is fully released. This is usually caused by using any of the easy pull mechanisms or some of the aftermarket clutch levers that do not have the same geometry as the OEM lever.

4. Putting a short arm on the clutch actuator.

5. Missing one clutch spring or using one wrong spring on one post.

6. Using a clutch cable that does not move freely.

7. Using transmission oil that is too thick.

Glamisrider · « **Reply #5 on:** September 21, 2015, 09:28:36 am »

With the motor running and the clutch pulled in will it shift in to neutral?

If not this is most likely your issue is the inner clutch hub not spinning free and you need to put in a spacer:

http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/engine-13/trans-trouble/msg41404/#msg41404

I would also suggest Maxiam MTL-R (80wt) for the trans oil. It's the best we've found and if you buy it by the case on amazon it's about $7/$8 a quart. If you don't want to get that pricy run type-F tranny fluid, either way change it often, like every 10-15 hours depending on your riding.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #6 on:** September 21, 2015, 11:51:50 am »

Thanks for the quick replys. When I tried adjusting the cable I would get full clutch all the time. and little to no power to the wheels. even though the RPM would increase. Everything else would operate like normal. smooth shifts even into neutral etc. I think I was running a 80 wt. oil in it. so that should be fine.

I took it by the local shop yesterday. just to show it off since they've also been helping me with the build and after starting it they decided that there was something going on with it on account of a rattling noise from the clutch cover. So i'm assuming that one of those bolts came loose. I ended up leaving it with them to figure out. It will take them a while to get into it however once they do I'll post back in case it could help someone in the future. I'm super excited to get this thing back and be able to take it out on some trails.

Skeans1 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 22, 2015, 05:55:10 pm »

Another good option that's cheap around us is 15w40 durex Josh.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #8 on:** October 08, 2015, 08:47:31 am »

Ok, So I got word back from the shop yesterday. looks like the little push bearing in my clutch pack exploded, which caused the bolts and nut that holds everything together to come loose. luckily we got to it in time before anything major happened. While they were in there they noticed that my basket was rather worn, their words exactly "it looks like a flight of stairs" when referring to areas where the clutch pates should slide nicely. So I ended up ordering a new OEM clutch basket, bearings and other small stuff $300 give or take. But with free labor!

Also some other good news, they informed me that I had my jetting right on which was hard to believe because trying to jet with a poor clutch was difficult.

I also noticed something else when this 280 lbs mechanic was riding my bike... both of my front tires, the tops lean to one side. I have my tie rods all the way in on both, and it tracks perfectly straight, and frame is straight. Could it be me A-Arms are bent? I never noticed anything out of the ordinary. I'll post some pictures up once I get the bike back from the shop.

Either way the 250 is nearly back in riding shape!!!

Rogue1970 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 08, 2015, 10:07:02 am »

What your seeing there is the factory camber. Both the 250's and 500's have positive camber. So the tires lean out at the top of the tire. Kind of like this from the front \ /. You want to perform the camber mod that pushes the bottom ball joint out more changing the camber to negative or something that looks like / \. I would not go over 4-5 degrees of negative camber.

You can find a lot of information about the camber modification on this site. Here are a couple:

http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/chassis-suspension-17/lt250-front-camber-mod/msg46420/#msg46420

http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/custom-chassis-suspension/what-is-camber-toe-caster-and-offset/msg26234/#msg26234

FYI... the 250 and 500 have similar mods you can do to both. Spend some time reading thru the different forums on this site and you can update the handling of your quad (Camber mod, Bump-Steer or Toe mod) so it is closer to today's modern quads.

Good Luck.
Larry

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #10 on:** October 08, 2015, 10:45:02 am »

Gotcha, I did the camber mod done, but I have not gotten the extra spacers from Mitch just yet.

But what I'm seeing that concerns me is both my tires are like this \ \ and they appear to be the same amount of lean, so that makes me think something is bent somewhere. Kinda hard telling considering I got my frame, a-arms and everything else in between, second hand. the frame and a arms came together but Its hard telling who did what to them before I saved it.

Sublunacy · « **Reply #11 on:** October 19, 2015, 08:11:03 am »

sounds like the frame is bent. try using a large square and a measuring tape to check it quickly.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #12 on:** October 20, 2015, 10:18:56 am »

Will do, I should be getting it back from the shop sometime this week. When I do I'll check it out and post up some pictures of it. It rides straight so I can't complain too much but its an awkward sight to see.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #13 on:** October 20, 2015, 03:19:39 pm »

Ok, so I heard form the shop today and should be getting the bike tomorrow or at the latest Friday. they said that the clutch is now functioning like it should but I still have some issues that need to be worked out.

clutch cable and lever assembly not allowing for smooth clutch operation

thumb throttle or cable sticking, I have a brand new throttle cable and a new to me Moose billet thumber, possibly worn thumb throttle.

They also told me that something is "not right with my carb" they say that jetting seems right but it needs a GOOD cleaning. kinda odd to me because I have cleaned it a lot. It does/did leak gas from the tube when gas was on and bike was not running but other then that no real explanation on why it needs cleaned. I should probably just replace the carb but figure I should try and clean up and get it to work with what I have.

I know this is not the right area to be posting this but I figured it would be better then starting a new thread. any thoughts on this stuff? I think there is a "how to clean carb" sticky here so I'll start there when I get it back. maybe I'll post a video of it running.

Thanks again for the help everyone

Sublunacy · « **Reply #14 on:** October 21, 2015, 08:45:16 am »

good job w the new cables. the clutch is a little stiff on the lt.

-the moose throttle is alot lighter. the throttle was very slippery so i had to spray it with a can of truck bed coating. its great now!

-lastly the carbs atomizers need to be cleaned aswell as a carb kit.

---------

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #15 on:** October 22, 2015, 11:15:45 am »

Ok, so took her for a ride last night and she is running strong. Surprisingly fast for a 250r.

I think I found the source of my odd front tire lean. I believe that one of my upper A-Arms are bent. not a big deal at this point.

Got one question though. I'm looking at clutch perch/lever and front brake combos found a decent set on motorsport outlet:
http://www.motosport.com/streamline-reflex-pro-clutch-and-brake-lever-kit?mmy=suzuki;ltz400;2004

They do not have the lt250r as a compatible fitment, but they do have plenty of other makes and models. I thought for the most part this would be universal. the one I have linked is for an ltz400 would these work on my 250 or is there a different model that would, or do I need to get a different set all together?

ZillaFreak · « **Reply #16 on:** October 22, 2015, 12:41:45 pm »

The clutch lever and perch are pretty much universal.
The brake lever is not. If you want to use the Z400 brake lever, just get a front MC for a z400 and then they should work.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #17 on:** October 22, 2015, 12:57:39 pm »

Sweet, thank you! my front MC is kinda junk anyway.

Sublunacy · « **Reply #18 on:** October 23, 2015, 12:21:58 pm »

a yfz450 or suzuki 400 mc will do it. mine was about 30 dollars. its now powder coated blue with a blue tinted sight glass. sweeeeet !!!!

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #19 on:** October 24, 2015, 12:09:48 pm »

Well I got on fleabay and ordered my ASV levers and clutch perch for $130.00 pretty decent price I also got a LTZ400 MC coming that was $25.00 and a new clutch cable was like $5.00 they should be here early to mid next week. pretty excited for the ASV set up. hopefully it'll pull easier on the clutch and brake. or at least more of a consistent pull. I believe that my levers now are bent to the point where full pull doesn't fully engage the clutch.

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Author Topic: Got a Clutch Issue (Read 3988 times)

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