When I first got mine it would go up fine but coming down was a whole different story. Front shock bushing were shot. It would wabble all over.
Is that with a +2 on it I'm guessing? I plan on going through whole suspension system making sure everything is tight of course. Is it that much of a difference In handling that it would actually be miserable if I decided to trail ride here and there? Because it's mainly gonna be for pits
Stock suspension I was talking about. I have +2 a arms aftermarket swingarm. Aftermarket shock. Aftermarket axle.Handles wonderful now. But the steering mods like bumb steer and camber mod made a big difference. Also aftermarket shocks help to. Just getting everything tightened back up makes a huge difference. But your looking at a pretty penny for everything I mentioned.
Stock suspension I was talking about. I have +2 a arms aftermarket swingarm. Aftermarket shock. Aftermarket axle.Handles wonderful now. But the steering mods like bumb steer and camber mod made a big difference. Also aftermarket shocks help to. Just getting everything tightened back up makes a huge difference. But your looking at a pretty penny for everything I mentioned.
Ya I'll prob just tighten everything up for now, I don't know how much riding ill do with it this year my busy season is summer/fall so. But next winter I plan on stripping it down and putting a few grand into it, see what I can come up with
The camber shims are availible in the store above for $50, and the bumpsteer mod just requires swapping the steering arm from 1 spindle to the other. It basically allows the tie rod to run almost parallel with the a-arms. There is a thread on the site and how to do it. Two cheap easy mods that will greatly increase handling.
The camber shims are availible in the store above for $50, and the bumpsteer mod just requires swapping the steering arm from 1 spindle to the other. It basically allows the tie rod to run almost parallel with the a-arms. There is a thread on the site and how to do it. Two cheap easy mods that will greatly increase handling.
Thanks for the suggestions
it's my first wheeler upgrade so still a learning process lol
Mine is an 88 as well, found all my upgraded parts used on eBay.
Mine is an 88 as well, found all my upgraded parts used on eBay.
Ya I've noticed a lot on there!
**update on the build**
So I ran a compression test, and she's mint! I spoke with the guy I bought it from and he didn't inform me the guy he got it from had just rebuilt it two months ago, motor wise. So that's a plus!
Do the clutches have adjustments on them ? Or should I just put new plates in. I put it in first and the bike jumps a tad but even with clutch fully engaged. Don't have any problems shifting but, think it might be time for a new one. Any thoughts?
adjust clutch, or let it warm up more before you shift gears.
does it do that after it has been rode for 20min or so.
Only adjustment is in the two levers. be sure the arm is more than 90 deg to the clutch line. Or Sounds Like oil is too thick or just cold, or that the basket is grooved. File the basket grooves down don't bother replacing the clutch unless it s slipping or comes out in pieces, wont make a difference. New plates and Basket will if it s time.
adjust clutch, or let it warm up more before you shift gears.
does it do that after it has been rode for 20min or so.
I adjusted it a bit according to what ice racer said, and It stopped after was warmer, when it first starts I can't even put it in gear without it wanting to jump forward, don't stall out though...just kicks
My Zilla does the same thing, then after I ride it no dragging
Weird
Change the oil in it put in some 5-30 for the cold months, where are located? Maine?
adjust clutch, or let it warm up more before you shift gears.
does it do that after it has been rode for 20min or so.
I adjusted it a bit according to what ice racer said, and It stopped after was warmer, when it first starts I can't even put it in gear without it wanting to jump forward, don't stall out though...just kicks
Mine does the same thing, I have to start it in Neutral w the clutch in let it run for a few minutes, give it some throttle, drop it in gear & go. Warmer is OK but it may be slipping sometimes if I don't gradually throttle up. Can goose it!
Change the oil in it put in some 5-30 for the cold months, where are located? Maine?
Yea in maine, I mean I won't be riding in the snow any way, unless I decide to ice race it but. As for now i just plan on pit riding. But Ill try the 5-30. Thanks!
Dave3500 I'll check it out thanks for the heads up!
If it sits for long periods between rides the clutch will stick, I had a Tri-z way back that sat for a while, I fired it up and had to rip it on the road with the clutch in to break it loose. this was a extreme case. I usally hear this from bikes stored in hot climates and not run for long periods.
Anybody know where Rodney (Rat Tail Rider) is hangin out these days? He is also in Maine. He could probably help you out too.
If it sits for long periods between rides the clutch will stick, I had a Tri-z way back that sat for a while, I fired it up and had to rip it on the road with the clutch in to break it loose. this was a extreme case. I usally hear this from bikes stored in hot climates and not run for long periods.
That could be the problem, I mean it hasn't been rode much in who knows how long so.
Sure SuzukiGuy, lots of time I look on eBay & there's really nothing on there but new coils it seems!
Dave
