Totally normal. Gotta loosen them 2 screws. It's not really a switch. It's more of a tuning dial. Take the 2 screws out and carefully wiggle the dial out. Clean everything and put a little oil on all of it. You'll see a little coil spring. It'll fit into the notches on the PV and on the dial. Replace the dial with the spring properly located in the notches. Put the plate back on, and the twoscrews. Don't tighten the screws down. Turn the dial counterclockwise 360'. Tighten the 2 screws. Then get a manual!! Ghats word for word out of the book. :-)

I'll keep reading the manual to ya if u hang on to the FTZ head till Wednesday for me. Haha! I wound up turning mine a little farther past 360' until I had the transition from mid range to top end that I wanted. Having that PV set right really makes a difference. I ride in the woods here in KY alot, and for an old two stroke, mine has a pretty smooth powerband. Mine currently has a mostly stock 87 motor with a 39mm PWK carb and an FMF fatty pipe. I'm running an airbox with lid removed, a 58 slow jet and a 160 main jet. The PV dial is about 45' past the 360'. It idles great, has good bottom end, with real strong mid, and screams on the top end. I love it!

Thank you for the warning. Im buying a clymer book tonight.

I could have saved myself $20 if I had waited a day to buy the clymers. Lol thanks man, I downloaded it on my ipad. You guys are great.

The guy I bought it from told me that it had been flattened several times and the compression was too high, plus a head stud has been broken off in it.

Yeah, I was just thinking that if the compression is too high, all he'd really need done is a squish test and the combustion chamber opened up a little right? Or just use nitro methane!! Hee hee.
But yeah man, since your getting the pro design head, you can get one dome to use with that jug and another dome to use with your new one. You should get in touch with one of these builders. Send that stuff to them to mic out