I think I got it! Finally dammit!!!!

Okay, so all this time I was looking at the less-likely solutions to my problem. First I thought it was jetting, bad seals (I did have a seal I had to change--but it wasn't causing the majority of my problems), bad reeds, and a shorn woodruff key. And I'll be damned if Occam's Razor didn't apply here. This whole time, it was an electrical issue.

First off, the symptoms all pointed to a fouled spark plug, but my pigheaded ass thought there was no way. Every time I pulled the plug, it looked good. I didn't even check how well it sparked because the bike WOULD fire up. So today I get a wild hare up my ass and decide to check the spark. It was weak and wouldn't spark half the time, but the spark plug itself looked totally good. I even tried it with a new one, same thing. This caused me to check the wiring and clean up the grounds as well as the part where the magneto passes by the magnet. I did all this, and the spark improved a ton, but it still didn't look right to me.

I couldn't figure it out, I was ready to give up when, for the hell of it, I deced to use a b8es spark plug off my Banshee. Sure as ****, that thing gave me a nice fat blue spark. The whole time I was using one of those stupid ass "Type R" resistor spark plugs. I had a similar issue with those with my Banshee (certain years didn't require them and the resistor plugs weakened the 'Shee's already weak spark). So there it was--a twenty three year old electrical system coupled with a resistor spark plug makes for a poorly running bike. The most simple explanation was it.

So now that that problem is out of the way, I'm still looking to dial this thing in.  So the FMF website says I should be running a 240 main, 30 pilot, and needle clip in the third position. I'm assuming the FMF settings assume that the bike has no other modifications. If that's the case, how should I jet for the FMF pipe in addition to clamp-on UNI filter (no airbox) and VF2's at STP?