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LT250r Top End Rebuild - Thrust Washers Yes or No?
Posted by
Sdunlimited
on 26 Aug, 2013 12:13
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Two of the three LT250r heads I've got kicking around didn't have thrust washers in them. The one that did was locked up but not due to the thrust washers failing. I'm not using the RM bearing.
Should I used the thrust washers I have on hand (used) or not bother putting them in?
Thanks~
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#1 Reply
Posted by
Kyle T
on 26 Aug, 2013 13:04
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You'll need washers of some sort. Best stockers are -18006 washers, or you can use billets with an RM bearing.
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You'll need washers of some sort. Best stockers are -18006 washers, or you can use billets with an RM bearing.
Thanks - is it OK to re-use the ones I have or is this a non-negotiable replaceable item?
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#3 Reply
Posted by
Kyle T
on 26 Aug, 2013 14:25
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Replace them with 18006 washers or suffer the consequences.
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#4 Reply
Posted by
Rainman56
on 26 Aug, 2013 15:07
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For such a small cost why would you want to take the chance?The RM bearing and aluminum washers are readily available and low cost.
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If one of the stock thrust washers breaks, it will pretty much destroy your engine. We have seen a lot of them. Spend the $40 and get the billet washers and rm pin bearing then you won't have to worry about destroying it.
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Is it common practice for people to remove these completely from running motors after they experience a failure? Two out of the three I have on hand didn't have them installed. They were complete, intact motors when I got them however, all are not running and I haven't had any of them going yet.
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#7 Reply
Posted by
Rainman56
on 26 Aug, 2013 17:19
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Is it common practice for people to remove these completely from running motors after they experience a failure? Two out of the three I have on hand didn't have them installed. They were complete, intact motors when I got them however, all are not running and I haven't had any of them going yet.
Only time I,ve heard of them being removed is if the crank was taken apart and the rod shimmed on the big end.
But I,m sure some have just tossed the shims and ran without.Can,t say I like the sounds of it especially long term.
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I just took a look at two of the motors - one w/the thrust washers and one without. Both look to have the LT250r piston with the 'half moons' in the skirt and two rings. Doesn't appear to be an RM250 piston but I can't tell if it's the RM bearing or not. I'm guessing it won't make a difference regardless however, as it sounds like even with the RM bearing billet thrust washers are recommended. Now I got to see if they keep these in stock locally. The Suzuki dealers around here don't seem to carry a lot of the older stuff.
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#9 Reply
Posted by
LT250RWV
on 26 Aug, 2013 18:23
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I didn't run any thrust washers on my first 2 topend. First one knock the pins out of the piston that hold the rings in place. Which it quit running. Second top end crack the shrit and knocked the pins out were the ring end sit again. Also tore a big chunk out of the piston between the rings. So take it from me use them and buy the billet washer and the rm bearing or you will be throwing money down the drain. Build it right the first time or you will regret in the long run.
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Thanks for all the insight guys and especially this ^ real world experience - I appreciate it. I'll be ordering up some parts tomorrow and hope they arrive before the end of my vacation week. I'm jonesing to finally get one of these things running! Plus, it gives me an excuse to get a few extra items for the 4-stroker I teach the kids to ride on as well.
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Mitch sells the washers in the store on here, and you can get the pin bearing on flea bay genuine suzuki for $14. It is a 99 rm 250 bearing you will need with the billet thrust washers.
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Hi Guys - one more quick question: one of the motors that did NOT have thrust washers in it has a Hot Rods connecting rod - are thrust washers required for all applications or are they not necessary with these connecting rods?
Thanks
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#13 Reply
Posted by
AWedel
on 29 Aug, 2013 19:12
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Why the RM bearing and not the OEM or aftermarket LT250R equivalent? I'm assuming it's due to better availability of the RMs.
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#14 Reply
Posted by
Nopick
on 29 Aug, 2013 19:54
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The OEM LT washers are stepped and the bearings are a bit narrower. When you use the flat aluminum washers, you need a slightly wider bearing to mate up with the washers. The RM bearing is wider.
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Hi Guys - one more quick question: one of the motors that did NOT have thrust washers in it has a Hot Rods connecting rod - are thrust washers required for all applications or are they not necessary with these connecting rods?
Thanks
FYI - for anyone who may be interested, I contacted Hot Rods and asked this question and their reply was:
"
Yes, you still need to use the OE washers on the small end."
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I think FTZ or somebody uses a repinned YZ250 piston and bearing to eliminate thrust washers. Haven't seen one tho.
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#17 Reply
Posted by
Iceracer
on 13 Sep, 2013 09:35
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If you run the repinned piston too long its as bad as the thrust washer coming apart. And the bearing for the alum washer is narrower to allow the step to be removed for durability. Same bearing as yz 250 also.
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I am having another set of 100 washers made, and I am working on getting the RM bearings to sell as a kit in Oct, I only have like 2 sets left of the washers, must sell like 5 to 8 sets a week
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#19 Reply
Posted by
Rainman56
on 13 Sep, 2013 18:44
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I am having another set of 100 washers made, and I am working on getting the RM bearings to sell as a kit in Oct, I only have like 2 sets left of the washers, must sell like 5 to 8 sets a week
The next ones gonna be chromoly???:lol:
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I am having another set of 100 washers made, and I am working on getting the RM bearings to sell as a kit in Oct, I only have like 2 sets left of the washers, must sell like 5 to 8 sets a week
The next ones gonna be chromoly???:lol:
LOL!!!
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