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Ok, so Im feeling a little dumb. I grabbed a dial caliper and measured the inside diameter of the cylinder wall. the measurements of the original surface was 2, 8, 4 and the gouge measured 2, 8, 9. the reason I feel dumb is that I dont know how that transfers into MM....
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#101 Reply
Posted by
Motoman991
on 08 Dec, 2013 14:52
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Do you mean 2.84 inches? To convert to inches.
1inch = 25.4mm.
2.84 * 25.4 = 72.136mm
This is assuming that is 2.84 inches.
Can you take a picture of the dial caliper?
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The numbers on the top of the piston btw are 9685H
First and second measurement are attached.
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#103 Reply
Posted by
Motoman991
on 08 Dec, 2013 15:27
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First picture is 2.804 inches.
Second picture is between 2.809 and 2.810 inches.
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#105 Reply
Posted by
GrkGuy
on 08 Dec, 2013 20:42
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check in on e2s someone is parting out a 86 motor, might get a top end cheap,
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I replied to the thread, also theres a guy around me parting one out that I sent a text this morning.
Anyone have any advice for getting the counter balance nut off?
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#107 Reply
Posted by
Dezsled
on 09 Dec, 2013 11:10
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I heard someone say to use a penny in between the gears so you can use an impact to get the nut off, the thinking was a penny was so mallable the it wouldn't hurt the gears just stop rotation
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#109 Reply
Posted by
Chuckie25
on 09 Dec, 2013 11:46
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I heard someone say to use a penny in between the gears so you can use an impact to get the nut off, the thinking was a penny was so mallable the it wouldn't hurt the gears just stop rotation
YUP. I do this very often. Just dont do it on a 400EX and drop the penny on top of the oil pump and then forget about it.
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#110 Reply
Posted by
GrkGuy
on 09 Dec, 2013 11:57
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dutch those little parts look like they go on the shifter paw, there should be 2 small springs that hold them in place
when you took case cover off did you pull out shifter rod, is so then the paw might have come apart, but i thought there was something else that held it in place, not sure on the 85-86 tho
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Sweet thanks guys, I'm telling you without your help this thing would of already been taken to the junk yard and given away for the price of steel.
Well there was some ground up mess in the bottom of the case, so that might be where they came from, I didnt notice any springs after I took the shifter assembly out, I did have the small rectangular pieces that are around the actuator (I have no idea what these parts are actually called). So I might need help putting that back together properlly when the time comes.
So tonight after I get home, We will give it a go at pulling that gear, then what tool can I rent from an auto store to split my case?
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#112 Reply
Posted by
Chuckie25
on 09 Dec, 2013 12:04
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dutch those little parts look like they go on the shifter paw, there should be 2 small springs that hold them in place
when you took case cover off did you pull out shifter rod, is so then the paw might have come apart, but i thought there was something else that held it in place, not sure on the 85-86 tho
thats why they looked familiar!! Those are a B**CH to get back in the right place on a trx450r.... and you're right because i didnt pull them out of my 87 when i tore it down but again, thats an 87 not the 85/86
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#113 Reply
Posted by
Chuckie25
on 09 Dec, 2013 12:06
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Sweet thanks guys, I'm telling you without your help this thing would of already been taken to the junk yard and given away for the price of steel.
Well there was some ground up mess in the bottom of the case, so that might be where they came from, I didnt notice any springs after I took the shifter assembly out, I did have the small rectangular pieces that are around the actuator (I have no idea what these parts are actually called). So I might need help putting that back together properlly when the time comes.
So tonight after I get home, We will give it a go at pulling that gear, then what tool can I rent from an auto store to split my case?
those squares should have groves on them where the tips of those nipples sit into, the nipples are hollow and take a spring inside of them. The nipple pushes against the groove in the square and holds it out to where it works like a ratchet. Pretty slick set up for sure!
Also, the "ground up mess", if its like an aluminum paste almost it'll be clutch material
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GrkGuy, I took the shifter rod apart after I pulled the case, Followed the manual and thats how it said to do it.. There was 4 screws that had to have a impact driver to get off, that held basically pieces that held the rod in place. other then that, that was it.
Chuckie, ok that makes sense. Still dont remember any small springs so those might be bouncing around in there somewhere. or they were never put in correctly by the PO.
Hopefully I will be able to get it all gack in place without too much trouble when I start putting it all back together.
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#115 Reply
Posted by
GrkGuy
on 09 Dec, 2013 12:27
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springs still might be inside the paw, check the small holes for them
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Ok, another thing added to the when I get home list. I ran out of lithium grease last night so I didnt get too much work done on it
Just called redline racing a local atv machine shop and priced out some work and parts,
$45.00 for a full bore, which they said 72mm would be very do able and still fairly reliable.
$140 for a 72mm wiseco piston kit. Should I get the thrust washers and RM bearings from the store here??
$210 for a hot rods full crank kit.
$75 to have the bearings pressed onto the crank.
really good prices as long as I can do all of the disassembly and re assembly on my own, and theres not too much else that needs replaced.
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#117 Reply
Posted by
GrkGuy
on 09 Dec, 2013 13:25
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chrisg sells the washers, pm him on here
get the bearing from jason at honda east, or ebay
all that stuff shouldnt cost you more than 33 to35 bucks
i have heard a few guys complaning about the stores washers and slow shipping. they have them on ebay to.
you can get the piston kit cheaper on ebay, gotta look for it.
bearing 13.99
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=99+rm+250+wrist+pin+bearing&_sop=15i think cunninham821 makes the washers also, maybe try to pm him, or ask iceracer. he might beable to give you best deal on all of that stuff, even the piston kit.
but if your dealer can get you bearing under 15, bucks then thats a good deal. you will just need to decide who do you want to pay for the billet washers.
sometimes if you ask seller to pay over phone they will give you a better price than whats on ebay, you get around there fees. you have to ask them tho.
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Sweet, I figure since I'm doing this I might as well put a little bit more money into it so it doesent blow up again.
when the time comes I will probably be PMing everyone just so I can get it all together quickly.
I found a 72mm piston kit on ebay for about $123.00 but thats not including gaskets. If iceracer can hook me up with some good deals thats probably who I'll go with since he loves charity cases such as myself
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#119 Reply
Posted by
GrkGuy
on 09 Dec, 2013 14:11
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either get the oem gaskets or cometic, since your in the motor you should see about getting the head cut for the correct squish. and again iceracer is a good guy to deal with for that. not sure if the store has the gaskets for that year, you need to check or ask frank/mitch/erbe.
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is there something wrong with Moose gaskets?
Mind enlightening me on what you mean by squish?
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Soooo, After a broken penny I got the gear off, and took all the case screws off, then I thought to my self "what the hell" and gave a good tap with a dead blow on the crank rod, and she popped apart.
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other side
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oddly enough the crank just slid right out of the bearing no tapping, no tool was needed.
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only problems that I found was this gouge on the crank, some of the bearings are loose in the case, I was able to pop two of them right out and I am able to wiggle the crank bearings around a bit in the case too.
So how do I tell if this crank needs replaced?
and can I pull the bearings myself and press in new ones or should I leave that to a shop?
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