-
Ok, so as you can tell, it's been QUITE awhile since I updated this post. The 87 has undergone some major work and it's taken some time.
I took it down to the bare frame.
Shipped the motor out to be taken apart and worked over.
Got the frame back in order.
Sent the color codes to the engine builder so he could have it powdered to match.
Had the head o-ringed while they were at it. Also major porting, complete bottom end rebuild and the normal upgrades.........
we had a compression release added, and this is what it looked like when it came back. The motor sat inside on the bar for a month!
Got most of the parts back from powder / paint.
Including what I was told is the last set of OEM fenders in Suzuki's inventory (not sure about that one).
Some more test fitting of the plastics and seat.
So right now, we're looking at having the seat recovered at Cosmic Quads. They did a cover on my ATC250R and the work was phenomenal. I'm also designing my own custom 87 OEM graphics. They're replicas with a twist, and that's all I'll really say for now. Nothing major, just paying respect. -
-
That motor looks slick!! Is that candy blue? Project looking great!!
-
-
Looks amazing man! Can't wait to check it out in person one day.
-
-
That motor looks slick!! Is that candy blue? Project looking great!!
Yes, all blue parts (including motor) are candy blue translucent from Columbia Coatings.Looks amazing man! Can't wait to check it out in person one day.
We'll definitely have to hook up some time this summer. You're always welcome to stop up some weekend and check out the zilla and ATC250R if you want. -
-
AMAZING build!! How about that box that the fenders come in? Mine looked like a refrigerator box from the dealer! LOL
-
-
Hey Scawn, you interested in selling your old plastics? I need s set for a project I have started? Let me know thanks
-
-
super clean!
-
-
AMAZING build!! How about that box that the fenders come in? Mine looked like a refrigerator box from the dealer! LOL
Yea, each box was rather large. Thank goodness each one had free shipping.super clean!
Thank you.Hey Scawn, you interested in selling your old plastics? I need s set for a project I have started? Let me know thanks
Very possible. My dad and I have been contemplating on whether to hold onto the old plastics or not. They are completely uncut and are still in rather great shape. I'll let ya know. -
-
Thanks buddy. Funny story about getting new plastics. I had a buddy that worked at s Motorsport place got me oem zilla plastics at cost. On my way home they blew out of my pick up on the freeway!!! I hit the skids real quick. Luckilly none came out the Box or got hit by a car!!!!
-
-
Very cool indeed.
-
-
Looks good Scott
-
-
I might take you up on that trip up north to check it all out before the baby girl gets here in September.
-
-
Wow, looks good. Great job on the build.
-
-
Wow, looks good. Great job on the build.
Thank you very much. We ordered some new radiator hoses from Roose Motorsports and they should be in this week. I've got the graphics done, I'm just not sure if the rear numberplates are the right size or not. Does anyone have a template for the originals? -
-
Scott I have a spare set of rear number plates I can mail to you if you want I'll need them back but they're to oem spec text me and we'll talk about it finish our convo on the plastics too.
-
-
Your 60 year old dad wanted a Zilla. You got a cool dad. Tell him to put a roll bar on the front. A number of guys hear flat track and give you the low down
-
-
Keep the updates coming that thing looks mint!
-
-
Keep the updates coming that thing looks mint!
Just a couple pics from yesterday. I finally got it down off the stand for the first time. Still plenty of things to be done. I need to go back over a lot of bolts and nuts to be torqued / thread locked. Still need to figure out the proper way to run the wiring harness along the frame. Need to properly preload the springs and then put the airbox in.
-
-
Still need to figure out the proper way to run the wiring harness along the frame. Need to properly preload the springs and then put the airbox in.
From the back of the loom:
1) The main loom comes off the stator/stator cover, through two metal loops bolted to the center stator cover bolt and the other top center case bolt next the upper case saver threads on the chain side
2) then the loom lay across the back of the cases just behind the carb, then up the back of the frame down tube just behind the lick starter and over to back bone where it plugs in to the 5/6 bullet connectors.
3) The main portion of the wiring harness lays just under the back bone on the kick starter side next to the throttle cable and other wires coming from the front through rectangular hole on the kick starter side radiator mount plate (where the steering column is mounted)
4) the CDI harness comes across the top of the back bone just behind the open box on the front of the back bone and connects the main harness coming from the rear of the back bone.
5) The other parts that meet the harness coming from the rear, (I believe, I can't remember exactly) come from the front through the same rectangular box on the kick start side of the steering column mount plate along with the throttle cable & upper radiator tube.
Hope that helps
-
-
^^^Good info!
-
-
Thank you very much Glamisrider! At first it looked like foreign literature, but I printed it out and took it to the garage and it was most helpful. I got the wiring all done up, installed the new Pro Taper clutch lever, radiator hoses, and temp gauge. We also got the front end all torqued and adjusted along with all brakes bled. All that seems to be left is getting the exhaust properly mounted after making a gasket and finding what we want to use for an exhaust clamp between the head pipe and silencer, mounting the gas tank and airbox, setting all of the springs up, and then torquing down everything in the rear (the linkage is already done). This does lead me to a couple of questions though:
1. Why does Suzuki recommend Dot 3 or 4 in the front brakes but only Dot 4 in the rear? I'm assuming it's all about temperature but is it going to be noticeable?
2. How critical are the torque specs on the rear axle nuts? I believe the brake hub side is around 11 lbs while the sprocket hub side was over 100 lbs. Is there a better way to do this compared to the manual?
-
-
Scott I know the hall and Q pipe all used Rtv on all the exhaust joints.
-
-
Scott I know the hall and Q pipe all used Rtv on all the exhaust joints.
I've got some (dare I say it) Hondabond, which has proven to be the best high temp RTV I've ever used. I'll definitely put some between the exhaust flange and head pipe, but after getting a Duncan Racing billet exhaust coupler on my ATC build, I just want something that solid on the zilla to join the head pipe and silencer as well to guarantee no leaks and look good as well. -
-
Measure the ID's where the pipe & silencer meets and get one of the silicone NX500 degree straight couplers and couple hose clamps.
Their blue is really nice if you can get one and I think a 3" long 1.5 ID hose is/was like $7 each.
http://hosetechniques.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=101&zenid=5auvaq544s8gpljb3phemlug37 -
-
Ok, finally got the custom decals done that I created thanks to Bruce at http://www.bluelinedecals.com/#!honda-atc-decals/c1yjm, and just got the motor started for the first time.
https://youtu.be/FH77svk99jE -