Author Topic: 85 LT250R in need. (Read 5923 times)

Chrisr · « **Reply #75 on:** December 05, 2013, 11:46:34 pm »

It's really hard to give a price on the overhaul, especially if your paying someone else to do it. You can go on the Honda East website and get a ide of what the bearings, seals and gaskets will run. The overhaul I'm currently doing on my 92 will be my first on one of these engines. I've done my trx250r and my best estimate is around $200.00 - $300.00 for all the gaskets, bearings, seals, clutch lock washer and a few bolts that had buggered up heads. I didn't really pay too much attention to the cost because honestly I didn't care, I love the quad. You'll prob spend around the same on the Suzuki parts. As for if it's worth it........only you can answer that. From a resale stand point it's not worth putting a penny in a quad, you'll never get it back. I don't intend on selling my Suzuki or Honda so I do what it takes to repair them, keep them running and modify to my liking.

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #76 on:** December 05, 2013, 11:50:57 pm »

The Clymer manual is pretty freakin great. The only thing it doesn't have is the 3 timing marks on the crank gears, counter balancer gear and crank itself. That's how you time everything. I added that into my book I have an original manual as well so I'll look through both and compare them for you

as for if it's worth it: In resale value? Not really unless you're building an all out show quality restoration and then you STILL won't get back what you put into it. Not now that you've gotta rebuild an engine. But as far as enjoyment wise: The first time that you really get to ride it you will be sooooo happy that you put the time and money into it. Trust me on this man. It's amazing. Just don't let anyone else with an lt move close to you because then you'll put even more money in your bike LMFAO

If you wanted and if it's in your budget and of that other motor is really an 87, it would be EXTREMELY worth it to take and cut away the single down tube and replace it with them upside down Y down tube to fit the 87+ center exit exhaust/power valved motor. Talk about a kiiilllleeerrrrrr pulling motor!!

Chrisr · « **Reply #77 on:** December 05, 2013, 11:58:35 pm »

I'll never get back close to the money I have tied up in any of my quads if I sold them........and I really don't care cause I don't think of resale. I have built or am building them the way I want to fit me........powder coated frames, shipping parts all over the country for chrome or machine work, custom building parts.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #78 on:** December 06, 2013, 12:00:57 am »

Thanks guys you have made up my mind. Looks like I will be doing my rebuild

It will probably take me a while until I can get it done but It something that I can take my time and do right. What do u use to keep parts from rusting? I've used white lythium grease for bigger engines, would that work in this case to or should I just plop everything in a bucket of oil?

I'm really hoping that it is an 87 but so far with my luck it will probably be an 85, BTW pretty sure that my motor is an 86 but the frame is an 85 just some side info.

Chrisr · « **Reply #79 on:** December 06, 2013, 12:10:53 am »

I clean the parts good and use the spray white lithium grease on them and put them in a Ziploc bag. Been storing spare parts this way for years.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #80 on:** December 06, 2013, 12:19:13 am »

Oooo ziploc seals in the freshness

Thanks chuckie that would be a great help.

Now I'm actually excited about getting into this thing tomorrow. I will be taking a lot of pictures and asking A LOT of questions. But before I do any of that I gotta clean up my garage and work bench so I have some room to work.I tend to use the pile method for not current projects so the current ones can be spread out and organized.

1986QuadRacer · « **Reply #81 on:** December 06, 2013, 02:35:12 am »

If the motor is bad get a 500cc motor and throw that in there. You won't regret it:)

All American · « **Reply #82 on:** December 06, 2013, 09:51:00 am »

People on this website love the rebuild threads. You are in good hands.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #83 on:** December 06, 2013, 01:32:47 pm »

I donno about the hybrid mod, this is a quad that other people will be keeping warm for me while riding my CRF until I see something that I gotta do on a quad or running sand trails and some forest trails. basically when I get bored of my bike

So I got it home this snowy and icey morning. I very slowly pulled the trailer with bald tires behind my lil 4wd ranger. And stuffed all of the bike into the garage. So right now as she sits, the motor is still in the frame but both of the covers are pulled off, and the clutch assembly is pulled apart, what parts do I need to pull off and grease and ziploc before they rust to nothingless? then I'll pull the motor from the frame. and get to work with it on the bench.

Oh and are there any special tools that I should pick up?

I'll post some pics of everything when I start pulling it apart, I think my stator is still in usable condition, but I'm assuming that the crank will deffinately need to be replaced.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #84 on:** December 06, 2013, 09:18:00 pm »

Ok, so I got some pics.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #85 on:** December 06, 2013, 09:19:54 pm »

and more

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #86 on:** December 06, 2013, 09:23:55 pm »

And more,

Sorry about the multiple post but I got a restriction on file sizes...

how does that stater look btw? old but functional?

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #87 on:** December 06, 2013, 09:40:57 pm »

Special tools: I don't THINK so. I don't remember using any special tools on my engine other than a fly wheel puller.

Cylinder head: looks like a perfectly usable head!

Cylinder: depending on what bore it's already on it may or may not be usable. Those are some pretty serious gouges! Sheesh!!

Stator: in my experience it doesn't really matter how the stator looks, it's how it actually works. That being said, if it was running your bike before it will still be good. You can always change the source coil as just a precaution

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #88 on:** December 06, 2013, 09:49:21 pm »

Sweet glad to hear about the head and stater if they do not need replaced that is totally fine with me.

I Kinda think that it was a stock bore. I very well could be wrong, I should probably bring out my precision measuring tool and then I can tell. That big gouge was from the wrist pin grinding away at the cylinder wall.

I'm hoping that the crank shaft does not need to be replaced, because that not a cheap part. I do not know how I'd feel about putting a used one in it but I guess that is an option.

GrkGuy · « **Reply #89 on:** December 06, 2013, 09:49:53 pm »

yeah i think that cylinder is junk, does not look like you will be able to bore it out past those.

what happened there, not a fresh top end like you was told, no cross hatch marks in top end and piston looks
like it been in there a while.

GrkGuy · « **Reply #90 on:** December 06, 2013, 09:50:53 pm »

clean piston maybe you can get numbers off of it and it will tell you what bore your on.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #91 on:** December 06, 2013, 10:01:30 pm »

numbers on the top of the head read 9685H also the piston skirts have half moon cut outs on them is that a normal thing?

then it also has 534 on the bottom

so what are my options for a replacement cylinder?

BTW only one side has a gouge the other is clean, just to clarify. Yea its all been in there a while. I'm beginning to think that the PO did a "rebuild" using the same internal components to put it all back together thus causing this.

GrkGuy · « **Reply #92 on:** December 06, 2013, 10:20:58 pm »

numbers should be on top of piston, clean all the carbon off of it, you will see them.
and you might lose 2 bore sizes, your gonna have to send top end out for a bore and you will need new piston.
do not try to put that back together like that. and yes some builders cut pistons, they all do something different.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #93 on:** December 06, 2013, 10:30:03 pm »

Oh, I wasent going to, that is what I think the Previous owner did with it. no this thing is pretty JACKED up.

I have a buddy who does machine work so I can probably get it bored pretty cheaply, I do wonder though if that would be too thin what is the max that someone can bore these things out without them blowing up?

I think I read somewhere on here that you can swap a RM250 cylinder, is that really a thing?

GrkGuy · « **Reply #94 on:** December 06, 2013, 10:44:04 pm »

not sure on the rm, but i think you can go 69mm on the bore
well thats what the 88 - 92 can go to. not real sure on the 85 - 86

where is Kyle when you need him.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #95 on:** December 06, 2013, 10:48:04 pm »

I saw piston kits on motorsport outlet for the 85-86 up to 72mm but I think that would be pushing it.

I guess I need to go out and measure the bore to know for sure what I'm looking at.

Chrisr · « **Reply #96 on:** December 06, 2013, 10:51:51 pm »

I see 85-86 cylinders pop up on ebay all the time pretty cheap.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #97 on:** December 06, 2013, 10:59:41 pm »

Took a quick look and I found

http://www.ebay.com/itm/C-1986-LT250R-Suzuki-86-LT-250R-cylinder-/380723657436?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a4e5fadc&vxp=mtr

and a few others but they all say that they need bored too. I'll measure it sometime this weekend and I'll post up what it is along with how deep the gouge is. If its beyond repair then I'll need to find another or look into a re sleeve.

That other motor still might be usable, I have not gotten any word yet either way, so heres hoping

Chrisr · « **Reply #98 on:** December 06, 2013, 11:08:13 pm »

Most you find will need boring but you still could potentially come out cheaper in the long run if your cylinder can't be bored enough to clean up the gouges and needs to be resleeved. Buying a good cylinder off ebay then having it bored in most cases be cheaper than having a sleeve put in your current cylinder. Like you said........figure out what bore your cylinder is at now then go from there.

Dutch_Rutter · « **Reply #99 on:** December 06, 2013, 11:19:39 pm »

Alright, I get a little ahead of myself sometimes

. Tonight's project was mainly getting most of the important parts off, greased and bagged up. Tomorrow I have drill with the guard then I'll be able to start working on it again Sunday when I get to finish the preliminary tear down, then pull the motor out of the frame then the real fun begins.

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Author Topic: 85 LT250R in need. (Read 5923 times)

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