Author Topic: LT 500 Jetting (Read 10639 times)

Q2W · « **Reply #25 on:** November 05, 2015, 07:23:49 am »

wow!

Order a new spring from somewhere like Bikebandit.com.

I like to use them because the shipping is fast. Not usually the best price, but that spring won't likely vary in price much.

Does the PV turn freely? Hope it's not stuck.

Also, it will be a good idea to go ahead and replace the rubber seals that you can get too.

Marcman804 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 05, 2015, 08:49:09 am »

Yeah it turns pretty freely, its not binding or anything. Is there anyway I can turn it so its closed and then lock it down without the spring or is the spring necessary? I read on one thread where a guy put a dime between the cap and the valve, not sure exactly what this did but was wondering if that would lock it in place?

cworobec · « **Reply #27 on:** November 05, 2015, 10:03:48 am »

You can unhook the power valve linkage and then yes you can lock the Powe valve. Just make sure you remove the rod so it doesn't try to engage.

Marcman804 · « **Reply #28 on:** November 05, 2015, 11:31:32 am »

How hard is it to get to the rod? Would I have to remove the entire cyclinder? Anyone know where I can get some pics or a vid?

Marcman804 · « **Reply #29 on:** November 12, 2015, 08:13:13 am »

I also noticed when I take the cap off the adjustment for the powervalve it turns very freely... should there be some resistance or is that right? And I punch the throttle really good and I dont see much movement in the sight glass if any at all. Do I have to remove the cylinder to further check the power valve? I'm getting so frustrated with this, almost ready to trade it for LTR450.

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #30 on:** November 12, 2015, 08:48:33 am »

Quote from: Marcman804 on November 12, 2015, 08:13:13 am

I also noticed when I take the cap off the adjustment for the powervalve it turns very freely... should there be some resistance or is that right? And I punch the throttle really good and I dont see much movement in the sight glass if any at all. Do I have to remove the cylinder to further check the power valve? I'm getting so frustrated with this, almost ready to trade it for LTR450.

Remove the cover with the sight glass on the lower right hand side of the cylinder. Use a pair of needle nose plyers and try to move the rod up and down. If it moves up and down, remove the exhaust pipe and look to see if the valve is fully open or fully closed.

If it is stuck fully open, there will be a huge loss in power in the mid to high RPM range. If it is stuck closed there will be some power loss in the 4000 to 5500 RPM range.

If the valve malfunctions it is best for it to be stuck closed. If the valve is stuck open, it will often cause the piston to overheat if the engine is run hard in the RPM range where the valve should be closed.

Marcman804 · « **Reply #31 on:** November 12, 2015, 09:10:18 am »

Thanks man. Thats exactly what I needed to hear... Im going to give that a try as soon as I get home from work, just sucks it gets dark so early now. Will I need to replace the gasket on the sight glass? I definitely want to keep it and get it running right because these things are pretty rare, most of the people around where I live never even heard of them, and they are shocked knowing its a 500... 2-stroke lol. Again, thanks for everyone's help and advice.

Marcman804 · « **Reply #32 on:** November 13, 2015, 01:52:41 pm »

I got the power valve closed shut and took a flat piece of metal and closed it where the spring would go just to make sure it stayed closed while riding... it's still breaking up on the top side. This is with the 380 main and 30 pilot. I'm beyond frustrated

Q2W · « **Reply #33 on:** November 13, 2015, 02:14:29 pm »

you're not running a roost boost are you?

Marcman804 · « **Reply #34 on:** November 13, 2015, 03:01:53 pm »

I have no idea what a roost boost is? Would a bad cdi cause it to break up?

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #35 on:** November 13, 2015, 03:27:57 pm »

Breaking up on top is a rich condition or an electrical problem.

An electrical problem could be a loose connection at one of the bullet connectors, a bad component (spark plug, spark plug cap, stator, coil, CDI box, kill switch or wiring harness). It is a process of elimination

Marcman804 · « **Reply #36 on:** December 04, 2015, 08:52:08 am »

I finally got around to trying my buddy's 250r cdi on my zilla. It solved the problem but its still not as fast as I thought it would, I was hoping this thing would be faster than my Raptor. I'll do some research and see what I can do to unleash more power out of the beast though. A little disappointed but I know it has lots of potential.

Glamisrider · « **Reply #37 on:** December 05, 2015, 05:29:53 pm »

Quote from: Marcman804 on November 12, 2015, 08:13:13 am

I'm getting so frustrated with this, almost ready to trade it for LTR450.

If you're going to have one of these that runs well you best get used to wrenching on it, there's always something to fix

Marcman804 · « **Reply #38 on:** December 09, 2015, 05:23:44 am »

Yeah I understand that. I just want to experience it in its full potential. Right now my Raptor and my brother's Banshee would tear it a new @ss. It's not terribly slow, I can feel the power down low but just seems like its running out of steam on the top side still. It's not breaking up but just doesn't have that wide open feel like most 2 strokes I've ridden. The Banshee seems to keep pulling hard in the upper RPM's as the Zilla hits a wall. I'm thinking it may be the exhaust. I have the FMF and I've read so far that its pretty much at the bottom of the barrel. What do you guys think I should do next to help it out on the top end.

Q2W · « **Reply #39 on:** December 09, 2015, 08:20:04 am »

Not sure what all you've do to it but a new exhaust would go a long way. FMF falls on it's face at about 5k RPM. 4-5k RPM is about where the big boy pipes start coming alive. Have you done any head work? The dome really needs to be reshaped to solve the deto issues and it's not very expensive.

It's a labor of love my friend. And once you start adding HP, lots of stuff starts to break. (cheap/poor quality 80's suzuki metal and parts)

But once you fix everything, they can really be quite reliable. Knock on wood, my bike has survived about 5 seasons with ZERO breaks (all sand dune riding).

She's getting a little tired though, time for a top end rebuild.

Good Luck.

Marcman804 · « **Reply #40 on:** December 09, 2015, 12:17:21 pm »

Thanks man. I see some Pro Design domes on eBay? Are they decent? If so I'll get one asap. And would I need to get the entire cool head or would I be able to use the stock one? Just not trying to fork out a ton for another exhaust this close to Christmas.

Q2W · « **Reply #41 on:** December 09, 2015, 02:14:45 pm »

The domes are for the cool head. You'll have to send the entire head off to get the dome reshaped if you stick with the stock head.

Mr.Sampson · « **Reply #42 on:** December 09, 2015, 03:02:37 pm »

you could take your stock head and send it to carl bartlett or HPR and if your lucky Q might do it and all three of those guys will tell you to buy a better pipe ... but just fixing the head will do wonders for reliability and performance for your machine ... if you have a 87' have it o-ringed while they have it and ordering a pro-design head will require the same machine work done as the stock head .... they do look cooler and call the machinist prior to purchasing any domes as they all have different opinions on how to set up your motor....good luck and this bike should run with any of the bikes you mentioned if running properly

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #43 on:** December 09, 2015, 03:21:55 pm »

The squish is not correct on a new Cool Head either. A stock head or a Cool Head need to be machined to correct the squish problem and the cost for machining either one is about the same.

If your stock head is beyond repair then it is cheaper to buy a new cool head. Suzuki wants over $700.00 for a new stock head.

Rogue1970 · « **Reply #44 on:** December 10, 2015, 10:45:57 am »

Yikes that is expensive.... but at least they still have it available. That is a plus I guess. My Cool Head is working great so far Jerry. Thanks again!

Marcman804 · « **Reply #45 on:** January 21, 2016, 07:36:26 am »

I need to replace the slide on the stock carb and I was looking on Ebay and was wondering if you guys could check this out and let me know if this would be a good replacement and if not where else could I find one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/151232466016

Also, I've been still trying to get the best jetting. I've ordered jets from MFG Supply and I have read that not all jets are equivalent or accurate as the oem jets. Do you guys think these jets are good enough?
http://www.mfgsupply.com/snowmobile/snowcarb/snowcarbjets/snowcarbpilotjets.html

Thanks for all your help. This has been a real struggle but Im keeping my patience with my mighty Zilla lol.

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #46 on:** January 21, 2016, 10:34:45 am »

Quote from: Marcman804 on January 21, 2016, 07:36:26 am

I need to replace the slide on the stock carb and I was looking on Ebay and was wondering if you guys could check this out and let me know if this would be a good replacement and if not where else could I find one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/151232466016

Also, I've been still trying to get the best jetting. I've ordered jets from MFG Supply and I have read that not all jets are equivalent or accurate as the oem jets. Do you guys think these jets are good enough?
http://www.mfgsupply.com/snowmobile/snowcarb/snowcarbjets/snowcarbpilotjets.html

Thanks for all your help. This has been a real struggle but Im keeping my patience with my mighty Zilla lol.

Use only genuine Mikuni or Keihin jets. The few dollars you save by using the aftermarket jets will not offset the cost of doing a top end if you are unfortunate enough to get some jets that are not sized/dimensioned and marked correctly.

The hole size in a jet is only one of the many different dimensions that make a jet flow like it is supposed to flow.

Marcman804 · « **Reply #47 on:** January 21, 2016, 10:44:02 am »

Where would I be able to get genuine mikuni jets? I see lots of sites when I google for genuine but where do you guys get them. The atv shop near by has mikuni jets but are from a different style carb.

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #48 on:** January 21, 2016, 11:36:33 am »

You can buy them from many different places. Just look for the trade make on the jet. Mikuni's trade mark is a square with a smaller square inside the larger square in the lower left hand corner. Keihin's trade mark is a distorted 4 point star.

We buy from the USA importer for Mikuni and Keihin. If they will not sell to you, you can get them from us.

Ywnmn · « **Reply #49 on:** January 21, 2016, 01:32:21 pm »

I get my jets from www.jetsrus.com but Im probably paying too much, IDK

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Author Topic: LT 500 Jetting (Read 10639 times)

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