chain adjuster studs removal

• chain adjuster studs removal
  Posted by Kreidy818 on 21 Apr, 2013 14:40
• Anyone have any tips on taking these out? I already used the grinder to cut a groove on the end for a screwdriver. really dont want to use heat cause there is a rubber sleeve on the studs. any tricks would be appreciated
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• #1 Reply
  Posted by Dezsled on 21 Apr, 2013 16:19
• Spray the bolts w/ pb blaster or liquid wrench before you tackle that job, let it sit for a couple days. Double nut the stud and use a wrench to remove
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• #2 Reply
  Posted by WestTexasKing on 21 Apr, 2013 16:29
• Buddy nut or a stud removal tool is your best bet, cutting a slot for a flat head never worked very well for me and wound up ruining my chances of getting a nut to thread on.
  
  There's a great product out on the market that outperforms liquid wrench/PB blaster/mouse milk/etc., it's called Bolt-Off from Nutek.
  I did a side-by-side comparison of those three and the Bolt-Off by spraying a different one on axle U-bolts on a truck (4 nuts, 4 penetrating oils, and the other side of the axle was used as a control group by repeating the experiment).
  Compared to the Bolt-Off, the rest of the nuts acted like they were dry, creaking and popping, and needed a wrench almost the whole way.
  The Bolt-Off made a single pop when the torque let loose, required a wrench for 2 turns, then was handy the rest of the way.
  Once I got to the other side and found it to be the same, I sprayed the Bolt-Off on the other nuts and they came off without any complaints.
  
  That really made a believer out of me, and I highly recommend it.
  http://www.amazon.com/Nutek-Green-Bolt-Penetrant-Lubricant/dp/B002TNX3GY
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• #3 Reply
  Posted by Kreidy818 on 21 Apr, 2013 17:35
• thanks for the advice. I am going to soak it good in the morning and let it sit for the week till I get back home on friday night.
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• #4 Reply
  Posted by SBLT500R on 21 Apr, 2013 19:34
• the rubber sleeve comes right off.  slide them down the stud. 
  
  double nut them and they should come out. 
  
  never had luck with a stud removal tool.  always seem to chew up the threads.  heat an double nuts is how i get studs out. 
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• #5 Reply
  Posted by FX4Pitrone on 21 Apr, 2013 19:41
• When you re-install studs, do you use loc-tite or no?
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• #6 Reply
  Posted by SBLT500R on 21 Apr, 2013 19:50
• i never did.  i put a nut on the stud on the carrier side, so i could snug the stud up against th carrier.  also made it easier to remove later on, nut would bottom out against the body of the stud. 
  
  you want those studs tight, i've had a couple where they used the stud as the adjuster, threading it in or out of the carrier.  that is why they strip.  use the nuts on the outside to pull the carrier back.
  
  
  but i don't have to worry about those studs anymore, the round stye carrier is so nice. 
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• #7 Reply
  Posted by WestTexasKing on 21 Apr, 2013 21:13
• FX....generally, with studs you should unless it's a really tight fit.
  It also depends on where the studs are that determines which type of loctite you use.
  On something like an adjuster stud, I'd use a non-permanent loctite simply because the studs hold pretty tight and you occasionally have to replace them due to damage.
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• #8 Reply
  Posted by JayTater on 21 Apr, 2013 21:27
• I have a stripped hole in my carrier. Should I just helicoil it, or tap up to the next size?
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