Some guy on my Facebook group said that according to Q "madgoonracing's" just flip the horn to the bottom is unsafe and will cause the bolts to sheer. So from what I gather you should replace the steel steering horn with aluminum and not flip it... According to the legend in his own mind that is...
Hummmm not a fan of aluminum on my high stress parts
From the pics that BadMoonRacing500 put up Im thinking that someone put a zilla horn on my 250 and left the other, because one of mine is perfectly straight like that
why could the PO of my bike not have been a Dumb
****..
I've seen zilla arms on 250's also.
Would it be beneficial at all? It seems to defeat the entire purpose of doing the mod unless I relocate it to be under the shackle like the 500s I've been debating on picking up a 250 one to replace it, but its tough to do that when I'm saving cash to complete the motor for it. Or should I just get another 500 to replace my 250 one?
Supposedly flipping switching them does not completely fix the bump steer to its full potential. RK does a few things to bring down the bump steer. He also does different sizes camber shims not to rip on Mitch's but the one size fits all. I can't believe I'm saying this but I'm looking forward to get the camber shims and bump steer mods from a q for a stock front end.
i thought you had to flip a tie rod end too.
How much did that cost you DP? Mitch's shims are great and it's true one size doesn't fit all but you can take the 5mm starting point and grind material off till you get the amount of camber you want. It also doesn't involve grinding the tabs off the lower a arms.
I'll get ya a price shortly Derrick. Why do I need to figure out the camber ? I just want to buy ones already done. You say and you don't have to grind off the lower tabs yet you have to grind down the shims to get a perfect camber ? Which seems more reasonable taking them off a few times to get the right camber and taking the time to figure out what will work best or grinding off a tab and be done with it ? Not looking for a pissing match but honestly now which sounds to be the superior shim ?
He should start another site, like he was asked in the comments in one of the vids.
Cool to see he's enjoying what he's doing.
Supposedly flipping switching them does not completely fix the bump steer to its full potential. RK does a few things to bring down the bump steer. He also does different sizes camber shims not to rip on Mitch's but the one size fits all. I can't believe I'm saying this but I'm looking forward to get the camber shims and bump steer mods from a q for a stock front end.
I take no offense at all, I have sold over 50 sets so farof teh Camber Shims with hear nothing but positive reviews, still desiding to continue making them, lol I was kinda done until RK video popped up today, si I called for another batch to be quoted, I will be posting if any changes should be made.
the only reason Q is mad is cause mitch got his hand in his pocket.
you guys need to understand, if it not from Q is not any good...
the only reason Q is mad is cause mitch got his hand in his pocket.
you guys need to understand, if it not from Q is not any good...
Q can always buy my shims at Wholesale and resell as his own
Proper way to do bump mod on a zilla. Just take the steering arm and unbolt it from top of spindle and mount it to the bottom of the spindle. You do NOT need to swap sides on a zilla. It will look like this when done.
Would this make it worse? I thought the idea was to make the tie rods more parallel?
for some reason i thought you just flipped the tie rod so it comes up from the bottom
I played with a couple different things on my 500, pretty sure i wound up just putting the
Tie rod end on the bottom of the horn and re setting my toe. I know my tie rods are
Parallel to my a arms. My only concern was if a rock or something could more easily
Damage the rod end hanging below the horn like that. Then i looked at my YFZ and saw
The rod end was on the bottom too. I figured if it survived 7 years of abuse on my yamaha
Then it would be ok on the zilla.
Did you see Q's Video, his Aluminum bracket looked like it would lower or raise that tie rod ball joint at a hell of an angle?
I'd want those aluminum brackets heat treated
Which video shows his brackets? Looks like most of his vids are
Q riding other guys quads up and down his street.
Guess its the latest one, on Pegs and bump steer, If you have a welder or know a welder you can modify your pegs way cheaper.
bead blasted, cut, dropped down 1" back 0.375"
from OEM position, with a Mitch Proof support gusset to keep from bending.
Proper way to do bump mod on a zilla. Just take the steering arm and unbolt it from top of spindle and mount it to the bottom of the spindle. You do NOT need to swap sides on a zilla. It will look like this when done.
Would this make it worse? I thought the idea was to make the tie rods more parallel?
No,if you look at them stock the tie rod runs level, which is not parallel to the a-arms. Lowering the mount allows them to sit more parallel with the a-arm. It doesn't completly do away with the bump, but reduces it to a minimum. I've done the mod on 250's and 500's and there is a definate reduction in bumpsteer and an increase in corning abillity, it also won't hi-side near as easy. Q saying this is wrong makes me laugh, because it's how he taught us to do it on the 250's and 500's years ago on the old site. Now that he can't make money off it, it's wrong... Mitch you better keep making shims, i'll need a few sets soon.
Ok so on the 250's you straighten the tab out and mount it n the bottom of the spindle ear? use some washers to take up the gap?
Ok so on the 250's you straighten the tab out and mount it n the bottom of the spindle ear? use some washers to take up the gap?
No, just take the steering arm from one side and mount it on the other and vica versa. Instead of the bend going up, it will be going down. Mount it in the stock position.
