This is my first time having parts powder coated. Do those applying the powder coating typically mask the bolt holes to keep PC out of the threads? Is it necessary and advisable to tap/chase all the threads?---if so can someone tell me that different size tap I should get.
Having frame gussets added friday and back to PC early next week. The frame was straight with zero cracks but I did have one spot up front with some cancer (rust) that will be reworked.
Im getting excited, frame is candy blue, chrome a-arms, swinger, bumpers, kicker, pegs,---various parts are raven black texture--and a few anodized red.--I broke down and ordered all new polished stainless bolts as I couldnt bring myself to put old looking bolts on new bling.
My powder coat guy cover all threaded holes in my frame unthreaded holes he didn't cover. Sounds like you have a sweet set up about to come together let's see some pictures sir!
The guy I used put silicone plugs in all the holes before blasting and coating.
Ask the powder coater about it. If the plan to leave the holes exposed, go elsewhere.
My guy used the silicone plugs too.
guy that did my old room mates bike left all the holes open. pain in the ass to tap them all!
Most use the plugs.
Plugs here as well... but I still went back and chased all the threads and anti-seized every bolt
any suggestions on which bolts to lock tight vs anti sieze.
Follow your manual since you got stainless bolts you definitely need to anti seize anything that's aluminum
Also, put a bolt and washer in the hole on the frame before you powder coat... then after PC, take it out and you have a good clean bare metal spot for your ground... I think that 1 was from Q2W on here...
Use lots of anti-seize with the stainless bolts, they like to gall. Pay special attention to the engine case bolts.
^^^^A LOT^^^^!!!! I used anti-seize and still had bolts snapping off the first time I took them off... I would never use again
so is the consensus that stainless bolts are a bad idea?--even with lots of anti seize.
Educate me---is the issue a stainless bolt contacting aluminum? or stainless in general?
so is the consensus that stainless bolts are a bad idea?--even with lots of anti seize.
Educate me---is the issue a stainless bolt contacting aluminum? or stainless in general?
I say stainless in general. They are too fine cut. I blue lock-tite everything with SS bolts (and still have a few fall out depending on riding conditions). Also, SS bolts will pull the threads out of aluminum really easy.
Electrolysis happens between dis similar metals.
I have read about the problem many times. Beware
There is no general consensus on SS hardware...only the facts.
The facts are that SS is a terrible material to use for hardware unless you have no other choice (ie extremely corrosive chemical environments).
In order to keep them from galling, you need lots of anti-seize, and that always leads to loose bolts and nuts.
Lockwashers are about your only option to keep them secure, unless you can find a way to use castle nuts and drilled bolts or a way to safety wire the hardware in place.
Even if you dip the bolts in anti-seize, over time it will wash off of the exposed threads, and that means when you take them off you're probably going to ruin the threads.
Aside from that, you have other problems with SS too...the hardware is considerably heavier and not as strong, so you run the risk of over torque with every bolt if you follow the manual's recommended torque specs.
If you can, try to use steel nuts on SS threads, or steel bolts with SS nuts.
That reduces the likelihood of galling, but doesn't eliminate it.
Using SS together is almost guaranteed to gall when you put any kind of torque to it.
Your best bet for new hardware is from Specbolt on Ebay, and if you want shiny hardware for a show bike, have that hardware chrome plated.
I'll try to find the thread on the old site where it mentioned a good place to send your hardware off to be chromed, they did a pretty good job and were reasonable on the price...if I can find it I'll post it here.
I have a container of titanium bolts.... Do they need special treatment before long term use?
Dez...what are you using the Ti bolts for, and what alloy are they?
Ti bolts, size for size, are weaker than steel bolts, though there are a few expensive alloys that are comparable.
Try it out sometime...grip the hex of a small bolt in a vise, stack washers up to the threads, then torque a nut on there until it shears the bolt and observe torque value.
Once you get the shear torque for a Ti bolt, try it with an identically sized steel bolt (OEM bolts, not cheap Ace hardware crap) and see what you come up with.
A deflection beam torque wrench is a great way to measure shear torque, and if you have a torque wrench that records max torque, even better.
What you're doing is getting an idea of the difference in strength between Ti and steel to see if the Ti you have is strong enough as a replacement.
Maybe throw in a SS bolt too, just to see where they stand in the scheme of things.
No special treatment is needed for Ti, it's naturally corrosion resistant, and in most cases even more resistant than SS.
It's why you hear of so many people with Ti pins and rods in broken bones, because it won't break down in the corrosive environment of oxygenated blood, salt, acids, electrolytes, water, and all sorts of generally bad things to leave metals in contact with.
The only time you have problems with Ti is when it's heated past 800-1,000F, then it starts oxidizing.
You still have the same problem with galling as SS, since it's a non-ferrous metal, so you have to take the same precautions.
