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So I have a 2002 Polaris Scrambler 400 4x2 basically all stock with the exception of a dynoport pipe and silencer. It is an auto that has been extremely well taken care of. Very easy to start, just turn the key or use the pull start. There is a guy close by that has a 1989 Quadzilla that he wants to trade for my Polaris. The bike looks really nice in the pictures- pretty much stock with the exception of FMF exhaust and new tires and wheels. The bike looks very clean. Says the carb leaks a little fuel, but other than that no issues. Says it is kind of hard to start, but the motor was recently gone through. He says he has about 10 hours on it since he bought it, but wants something easier to ride. My question here is, what all should I be looking for when I check it out? I have just spent the better part of the last couple months putting my 1987 together, but it was all in boxes when I got it. I knew I had a ton of work ahead of me to get it where I wanted it to be.
I plan on meeting him on Sunday in the morning down in Portland then taking it over to the dunes by Tillamook. I figured since we are close why not? What all should I focus on when checking it out. I am planning on bringing my compression gauge with me, checking the frame for cracks, stuff like that. Any real tell tale signs that I should be looking for? Any guidance is much appreciated. I was wanting to trade/sell the Polaris for a 4-stroke for my wife, but having another zilla to play with kinda has me intrigued. Thanks again -
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If My memory serves me right you'll want to check for.
1) Check the plug that is in it to see how it looks to be running, rich or lean.
2) Remove the stator cover and try and move the fly wheel up and down, looking for play which is a sing of loose crank bearings. Ask if the bottom end has ever been apart.
3) Drain a small amount of the oil and see what condition it's in, should give you a good idea of the maintiance the guys done or not done.
4) Try and make sure the frame is straight and not bent or too bent, because most a at least a little tweaked. Someone can chime in with A-arm to peg mount measurements of a straight frame?
5) Look the frame over for cracks, in the seat support, in the frame rails where they meat the down tubes and across the lower shock bridge, which you can see from under neath. The 88-90 had a change to the structure so they are not as bad for cracking as the 87s in that spot
6) check for a loose or broke steering steam
7) check for a **** swing arm, especially the stock one where the chain slider upper bolt hole is
check are arms are straight and the bearings are in good working order
9) check for rust and damage to the frame tubing
10) We all know every bike is a trailer queen that the wife rode only every other the holiday weekend so it must have 10 hours max, right? That is until you get it and the piston comes apart 10 hours later, so check with the guy to see how many hours are on the motor and if the piston is OEM or has been replaced and when the last time it was replaced. Forged stock pistons will shatter a lot easier than a good wiseco so you might be in it for a new piston, wrist pin bearing, alum thrust washers and some cometic gaskets to make sure it won't grenade on you.
11) A stock bottom end on a stock motor should get 100-200 hours on it before the bearings come loose and need to be replaced. If you plan on building this motor that will greatly shorten the life of the piston and the bottom end so if the motor is "all original" and you want to build it that could mean you'll be doing a rebuild once you start modding things and making more HP
12) I'd ask the guy about the clutch if it's ever been changed or altered. Most stock clutches with average use will be fine to continue using with good springs as long as you spec the plates and they are within allowable tolerances.
Decent compression should be no less than 150 PSI I think, higher than that the better.
That should cover you other than the obvious cosmetic stuff, if it looks beat it probably was.
Anybody have anything to add to the list of things to look for when buying a zilla?
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Check all that stuff Glamisrider said but honestly, plan on going through it soon. you never know what you'll find when you look inside ESPECIALLY when they say it was recently rebuilt.
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If it has a stock piston, get rid of it, period!
This is what happens to them if you keep running.
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^^^ exactly what happened to my Zilla. First ride out at Glamis on the 500. I shoulda did the top end
Where is that crying smiley
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Is there a way to tell of the piston has been replaced other than taking off the head? I know the wiseco that I put in my 87 has numbers stamped on it. I guess I could pull the head and find out. I have a cometic gasket set for a 1988-1990 that I got in a box with the 1987 I am rebuilding. This guy is gonna be shocked when I start tearing this thing down in the truck stop parking lot. Thanks guys
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Get a lighted flexible borescope and put it in the plug hole. You can pic them up cheap and a must have for checking engine's.
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Good idea, I have one at my office. Never thought of that! Thanks
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pretty clean
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no rust
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Maybe just my experience but i,d expect to put some $$$ into the Zilla or basically any used quad unless you know the guy and he was a fanatic.Even when "rebuilt" you,d be surprised how much stuff is "half assed" by some.I,d also ask if the rear shock was rebuilt and see if you can see any pitting on the shaft.Most people don,t service the shocks and once you get inside it can be nasty...My LT250 rear shock was supposedly "rebuilt",upon disassembly it was a mess.Piston shot,shaft needed to be fixed,etc.Sometimes you get lucky but most times I generally expect to spend some $$$ to get it in tip top shape and even more if you want to put your own touch on it,bigger carb,different pipe,etc,etc.Basically don,t take anything for granted.
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