I'd try to keep the RPM's as low as possible, target your final drive ratio to your expected top speed (the speed you'll be running most often) so the engine is just barely getting on the pipe.
That'll give you the power to continue accelerating if need be, the ability to downshift and bring it way up into the powerband, while allowing the engine to cruise at a lower and healthier RPM.
The engine is put under much less stress when you're not peaking it out on the pipe, so wherever possible keep it down low and make use of the 500's torque instead.
If you're thinking that it's ridiculous to never get it way up on the pipe and push those high HP numbers...just keep in mind that endurance isn't about power output, it's about being able to cross the finish line.

Lowering compression will help longevity of an engine in demanding conditions.
Using a less restrictive stinger will also help to scavenge more heat out of the engine, at the expense of your pipe's state of tune.
A larger radiator would be a good idea, bring the temps even lower than what they're normally at.
Stock porting (or a mild port) that keeps as much of the sleeve intact will help with ring life.
All of these things traditionally lower the HP output of an engine, but that's the tradeoff between power and longevity.
Be sure to do all of the reliability mods like the RM bearing and thrust washers, welded ears, heavier clutch springs, etc. as well.


One of the most important things that I'm saving for last...oil ratio.
If you're going to be running for an extended time with lots of throttle, you need a lot of oil.
Consider going down to a 20:1 or 25:1 ratio to keep everything happy in there.