Ok have an lt500 engine with no spark. Changed the pickup/pulse coil as the resistance was over 500 and definitely toast as new one is 235.
You changed out the main P/U coil and it tested good Ohms before installing it?
The magneto tests good resistance wise but I was told to check the AC voltage for output and am only getting 17 volts AC...been told that's not enough so do anyone know what the source coil output should be?Been told usually min 25 and some upwards of 100.
If your testing A/C volts, since there is no spark, I know the motor is not running, and the 30 RPMs you generating by kicking it over you will not get the same A/C voltage as the bike running at 2K -5K RPM, which is probably where the spec comes from so I would not be so worried about this. If the P/U coil is generating a pluse that's all you need.
It's all a matter of process of elimination and knowing what the most likely causes of the issue are, so here you go:
1st) Make sure your ground on the ignition coil & the ground & the slip fit plug on the rectifier are connected and connected well. I'd also switch to a known good plug just in case. If these all test fine the go to step 2.
2nd) If you
have replaced the P/U coil and it tested good resistance (Ohms) before installing it), test it at the harness as there could be a wiring issue between the coil and the harness connectors. In fact test both the P/U coil and the lighting coils at the harness connectors so you know that the entire stator set up including the wiring has no issues all the way to the harness plugs. If the entire stator tests within spec at the harness then move on to step 3
3rd) Ohm test your main ignition coil to make sure the wire connections in the ignition coil are connected and it's working correctly and not compromised. If you not sure with the Ohm meter tsting, change it out with one from a working bike. If that does not fix it, go to step 4.
4th) If the all the stator parts Ohms out ok and the ignition coil is ok, then replace the rectifier with one from a working bike. If I remember right you can not use the Ohm meter to read the rectifier, it just does not work. I've had it read or not read at all but it still work on a working bike so just replace it with a known working one. If that does not fix it go to step 5.
5th) Replace the CDI with one from a working bike as you can not Ohm this out, even though the book gives you readings for it, you can't do it with out a special set up. Just replace it with one from a working bike. If that does not fix it then go to step 6.
6th) The last thing is the flywheel, these have been known to loose there magnetic sections so switch it out with one from a working bike.
You should find a solution at some point in this process.
good luck.
LUK what it was.