Because of hard starting issues I was told to dry out lower end cavity w/ ether (maybe same as starting fluid) by spraying half can (with reeds removed) into cavity and allowing it to dry out for 24 hrs. Question will this dry out the crank and piston rod bearings. Was told that the old gas and oil buildup in there causes the piston to fire out of whack? Does any of this sound right? I do know a teaspoonful of crappy oil blew out of the crank seal into the stator area. Could the excess oil gas have caused the seal to pop out?

need little more help than that, sir lol
 I just yesterday got the new crank seals and before going through all that again would really help if someone that has had a similar problem and solution could PLEASE!!! come to the aid of this sickly old zilla! That runs like greased lightening once you fire her up! Hope to go down to Toledo ohio tomorrow (just west of there about 10 miles) called Maumee State Forest. Never been yet just an hours ride away. Anyone else been there? Even if its not all that great at least its a way to get away from S. E. mi for awhile where the only other alternative play areas are much further away. 

"IF" you were worried about a ton of extra premix fuel in the lower end of crankcase, I could see how removing the reeds and bringing piston to top dead could let it air out . And how starting fluid may aid in getting old oil sludge to evaporate or get burned out perhaps ??

Spraying starter fluid in there may help I guess, I'd be worried about leaving reeds off in a shed or drafty garage blowing dust down into motor, so I'd keep it covered with a rag of some sort .

I think the person that told you that didn't explain themselves completely, maybe a blowgun and compressed air after the lower end starting fluid  saturation ?

 This may be a trick best used under adult supervision.

what are your specs?  Pipe? air filter? air box? porting? reeds? elevation? gas? ratio? mods? 87 carb or 88+?

If you havent done a leak down test, i'd do that first.  Jetting wont matter if you have an air leak.

And since you're popping crank seals i'd imagine you have an air leak.  Have you tested your main bearings?  grab the flywheel and move it up and down.  If it moves, they're bad and will suck air.

Im not sure about the correct gap.  Are you looking in the repair manual or owners?  I'd imagine it would have to be the repair manual.  I can look tonight if you dont have one.

Also, it would be a good idea to go ahead and test your stator.

Starting fluid will dissolve the oil and any goo but will return to being goo as soon as the either evaporates because you are not removing any of the goo from the crankcase

If the lower end is full of fuel.   turn off the fuel, turn the ignition switch OFF and kick it over a few time to discharge the charged capacitor in the CDI box!!!.   Remove the spark plug, put it in 1st gear, hold the throttle wide open and push the bike until fuel vapor stop coming out of the spark plug hole.  The vapors will usually stop coming out of the spark plug hole after pushing it 30 to 50 feet.  This will clear out anything that will keep the engine from running. 


Air gap of .020" is fine if the crank is true, the bearing are tight and the bearing pockets are tight.  Some times if the gap is more than .040" it may not send a triggering pulse unless you kick the engine real rapidly. 

Nothing should blow by or through the crank seal.  A teaspoon of goo is not going to keep the engine from starting.  A teaspoon of fuel on a cold engine will make it start instantly.  A teaspoon of fuel on a hot engine will flood it and may take 5 kicks to clear the flood before it will start. 

If you take a jar 1/2 full of oil or grease and finish filling with starting fluid or something like acetone, after the starting fluid or acetone evaporates you will still have half a jar of oil or grease.

Everything in the lower end should be coated with a very light layer of oil.  If there is a heavy layer of oil coating everything in the lower end, it will not keep it from kick starting if the correct amount of fuel vapors are present in the crankcase.  If there is a few ounces or more or oil in the crankcase area and you are spinning the engine over rapidly like when you are pull starting it, you make pump enough oil from the crankcase to coat the spark plug and prevent it from starting.  Looking at the spark plug will instantly reveal if this has occurred. 

An engine needs 3 things to run.  A minimum amount of compression,  the proper amount of fuel, and spark at the right time.  On a cold engine a very rich mixture is best.  It is hard to flood a cold two stroke as long as there is not an ounce or more of raw fuel in the crank case.  If you have 75 psi compression an engine, it will run.  If the spark is plus or minus 15 degrees of where it should be, it will run.  If you cannot get your engine to start something is a mile off in one or more of these three basic requirements. 

Install the new slide and see how it runs.  My old worn out slide required me to run over a 40 pilot and was a pita to start.  After getting the new slide, i was able to run a 35 and starts on 1-3 kicks no matter the temp out.  My bike is ported with a larger carb so our jetting will be different.  Adjust your jetting as required.

Trying to wrap my head around how this carb slide works. Is it like a Windex spray bottle pump/squirter? I know if theres a crack or hole in tube between liquid in bottle and the air the pumping mechanism looses prime since its drawing in air instead of fluid.

Ok! Ok?