Curious what this entails also the pros and cons for running spray on a Zilla only using the spray for drag. Does it kill reliability of your engine? Is it complex to install/tune? What's a nitrous system for a Zilla run cost wise? Any help or advice would be appreciated curious if this is something I might want to invest in for a future upgrade of my Zilla. Thanks guys as always love this site for all the opinions and knowledge you guys have bestowed upon me!

Nitrous is good but it does take some setup and tuning. Your running compression jumps way up with nitrous. The key is balancing statistical compression with your head and the running compression with the pipe design port timing and nitrous all together. To make it reliable piston to cylinder clearance, ring end gap, head design, and timing are key changes. The biggest downer with nitrous is you have to run race gas if you are gonna push the button and when your not sucking nitrous race fuel isn't needed. So you either have a detuned zilla off nitrous or a beast on the nitrous.

Technically, any system that alters the amount of fuel entering the engine is a wet system.
They only call it dry because the nitrous system doesn't directly inject fuel to compensate for leaner conditions.

A dry system is nothing more than a nitrous injector located somewhere in the intake tract that doesn't compensate for additional fuel requirements.
This is the type of system that gives nitrous a bad rep...and for good reason too.

Whatever system you decide on, make sure it's capable of metering additional fuel when the nitrous is injected.
One benefit of nitrous over the traditional methods of power gains is that you can wean yourself off as you get better parts.
Say you start off with a trinity drag pipe and you're pushing the limits of your engine...what happens when you find a good deal on a Q or JH pipe?
Simple, you install the pipe and reduce the nitrous charge...now you're pumping less nitrous and making the same HP.
Eventually, you can find a happy medium where you're making decent power without nitrous, and when you do use it, not as much will be needed.
Someday you might get off the juice altogether LOL

I will also be running 100 or 110 octane fuel for detonation purposes and its worth the extra money to me for the reliability advantage alone.

Buckeye, you'll need less nitrous to make the same power with a pipe/porting combo...for example, if you're running a 40HP shot bone stock and a pipe/porting combo nets 20HP in addition, you'll only need a 20HP shot of nitrous.
That's only a vague generalization, since engine work changes how nitrous works and you need to tune it to your bike to prevent a dangerous situation.


Chuck, I concede to a misunderstanding in terminology.
I only have experience with nitrous in a fuel injected situation.
With a dry nitrous kit, it isn't responsible for metering any more fuel other than the colder intake is sensed by the MAF and adjusted by the computer.
Take that same kit and throw it on a carbed engine and you'll melt pistons.
So it made sense to me that a dry system like that would be the same on a carb...therefore a dry system is a terrible idea.
However, after doing a little more reading (I'm not against being proven wrong), I've found that what guys call a dry system is actually metering fuel by altering carb inputs and responsible for metering fuel as you said.


The definitions are vague and almost backwards, "contradicting" as you said.
My take...
If you have a dry nitrous system then it doesn't meter fuel.
If you have a wet system then it meters fuel, how it meters fuel is inconsequential.
Their take...
If you have a dry nitrous system, it meters fuel.
If you have a wet nitrous system, it meters fuel.
The only difference is WHERE it's metered at.
I think that's a little more contradicting than what I wrote, but of course what I wrote is wrong LOL

Excuse my ignorance but what exactly is a Liger?

So basically I could gain horses with a nitrous system but would need to tune it properly to avoid making my engine a bomb. What's a nitrous system for an atv usually run cost wise?

a liger is a cylinder made by Cast Precision Industries. Casted with a huge Arctic Cat f1000 intake and triple ex port with triple transfers. I have one mated to a zilla bottom end by an adapter plate. Skully has one also. Mine is a 102.5 bore.

http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/view_product/63?lm=5&name=3101-9779-144

I have a Boss Noss banshee kit on mine. I have not ran it yet. A boss Noss kit runs on lower nitrous pressure than conventional kits. ie. 300psi rather than 1050psi. It draws its own fuel as you hit the button. The nitrous nozzle has a "piston" in it that when nitrous is fed through it it draws the piston up crating a vacuum underneath it drawing fuel in than spraying it out the nozzle. I have a banshee kit because the nozzle are only capable of a 25hp shot. I plan on spraying a 50hp shot hence the banshee kit. Two nozzles at 25hp = 50hp total.

thats what it is. nitranol kit. Mat Shearer and I think Cameron @ Redline Racing were the ones who helped develop it. Its the kit that Shearer had on his saber when he set the single cylinder record back in 2009. 3.7 in 300ft at 89mph.

That was a dry kit correct? Thats what happens when there is no compensation of fuel for the added oxygen to the party. Melts **** DOWN!! That was on a 250 to wasnt it?

It's called a boondocker kit. It pressurized the fuel bowl according to nitrous pressure. So it's only when you push the button it will add more fuel. It works great. I used one on a twin cylinder snowmobile back in 06. 50hp shots. I probly put 2000 miles on that setup and went through at least 20 4lb bottles. No issues. But the initial tuning took a couple days to get it dialed. I run a dry system on my fuel injected twin with a control box. It dumps Extra fuel whenever the nitrous solenoid opens. I have 3000 miles on it with that setup with 50 HP shots on pump gas. No issues. I have installed the boondocker kit on a polaris predator 450 for a customer. Got it close on tuning and he loved it never had an issue. 25hp shot on pump gas.

Same kit i got.Bet i ran 2 or 3 20lb bottles thru it (yes 250) with no problems. Just one day, had a few too many, and ya it was fun!!

Ambient air temps are also important.
A 15F increase in temp is equivalent to 1,000ft increase in elevation.
So if you tuned the system in the morning when it was 50F and ran it that afternoon when it was 80F, you effectively went up 2,000ft in elevation without going anywhere at all.
It can make a big difference in how you're jetted.
Imagine if you tuned it at 80F and ran it a few days later at 50F...you'd probably melt a piston.

9200 feet.