This was originally posted by Kennerz on the old site, thought it could help here
This thread is intended to provide some basic info on how/what is needed to restore your 20 year old LT500 front brakes.
When restoring "New School" these are some of the questions that I had. There are many options on how to approach this, but this is what worked for me after months of research.
Like many bikes, mine sat for quite a few years through the 90's in my garage not running. Then two or three trips in early 00' before my , low hrs motor took a poop from a PT pipe with a clogged Answer S/A pro silencer.
With the Dr Q set up comming I knew I needed to be able to stop. so here's what needed replacing.
WHEEL BEARINGS:
1. If there is no play, and they spin freely on the spindle you might be ok. mine were only slightly questionable. so I replaced them with a set from ALL BALLs.
Puched out the old, pressed in the new after leaving them in the freezer overnight. one of the outers
**** on the way in, had to re-use my good
condition original.
I don't think ALL BALLS is quite the same quality as OEM IMHO.
ROTORS:
2. Rotors were OK, resurfaced with sanding disk.
PADS:
3. Used BRAKING carbon Metalic SP15 Pads. They were inexpensive and seem to work well once the "bedding" procedure took place. BEDDING- process of carbon being imbedded (tracking)from the pad to the rotor, through a series of aggressive stops, or mild brake dragging. this is done to provide a contact surface of carbon on the rotor as it reacts with the carbon on the pad.
APPEARANCE:
4. Joe Rock - clued me into using KRYLON "True Blue" anti rust style paint, works great as an inexpensive alternative to Powder coating, which of course is superior, just watch the coating getting inside the bearing mating surfaces or you will have problems. True Blue for the hubs,Repainted calipers with plain Silver rustoleum,and black rustoleum for the spindles; actually has held up very well. looks clean.
BRAKE LINES:
5. My brake lines would not work with the 2+ arms, so I picked up a set of extended lines from ASR (American Star MFG)
The quality seems to be very good, they fit well and cutomer service was above average. The improved feel was very noticeable as well. I Also used ASR brake line clamps, at only $11 a pair they are a bargain.
MASTER CYLINDER:
6. my master cylinder leaked, even after a rebuild a few years back. So in searching for a replacement I found out the following:
Direct replacement MC's: Honda-TRX300EX,TRX400EX, TRX450R, and Suzuki -Z400, and LTR450. The honda's required a different banjo bolt for the ASR lines (I think the suzuki's bolt right up, not sure)
** I modified the ASR Banjo bolt orifices to flow more fluid, they were smaller than the honda OEM size so I figured it would help with bleed, plus provide a good feel and response. Just reamed them with a larger drill bit, and chamfered the sharp edges/deburred the holes.** also the ASR lines are notorious for trapping air at the banjo bolt occaisionally on install making them hard to bleed.
I used a TRX450R MC Sourced from East Coast ATV ( part came, was packed OK, shipping was a little expensive) Very average service.
The factory LT500 brake lever will not work with the newer MC's (will bolt up, but is slightly different, there will be too much play at the lever)
So I replaced it with an ASV lever from Cycle Parts West ( They are Local to me, plus they had the best prices by far 30% less than others retail)
BRAKE FLUID/BLEEDING:
I used Valvoline Dot 4 Synthetic. There are many other quality(better)fluids out there, but this seems to be working fine. I used a Mity Vac pump from Sears to perform the bleeding. This makes it much easier than trying to hand pump, plus you can do it yourself(one person).
OPINION:
I had to do quite a bit of research to get all this info, so hopefully it will help someone who is in the rebuilding process like I was, and save some time and cut through the B.S.
With the TRX450R master, plus the ASR lines, braking Carbon Metailc Pads, along with the ASV lever. Braking is much improved over stock.
The whole set up was well under $250 front and rear. I believe which is pretty inexpensive when you consider how much a trip to the ER room is. Many will spend $3K+ on a motor and not upgrade the brakes. IMHO, it is stupid to build a fast bike and not run decent brakes.
I've come down from 85mph in a hurry,very smoothly and controlled with excellent modulation. Now the brakes can keep up with the bike, which is critical when you have a Dr. Q set up, unless you don't care and have your life insurance all paid up.
thanks for the info