General Questions:
1) How many watts does the stock lighting coils produce at 3K, 5K, 6K?
2) How many volts does the stock lighting coils put out at idle?
3) How many watts does the stock tail light with standard incandescent bulb pull?


LED Light & Load Specific Questions:
Headlight:
Currently I am running a Chris G, 6" double row LED light bar in the front.  It's 12 3W LEDs and it's rated for 9V-36V DC, Amps is 2.2@12V & 1.2A@24V.  I've ran this light direct from the stator 12V A/C on the "high" yellow wire for 2 years and it works BUT it does strobe depending on the RPMS, the higher the RPMs the faster it strobes, until you really can't notice it strobing.  I was thinking about putting a diode bridge rectifier to turn the the A/C signal in to DC.
Questions:
1) Will this stop the strobing?
2) Will a full signal bridge rectifier increase the volts to the light?  If so by what percentage?


Lighted Whip:
I have made 2 300 LED lighted whips that are rated at 25 Watts, 12V DC, both LED light strings stopped working after approximately 2 to 6 hours of use and they are wired in to the tail light leads (Not sure if they stopped due to physical damage or electrical system incompatibility issues).
Questions:
1) If I put a full signal bridge rectifier before the lighted whip, will it increase the DC amps above the 12v A/C signal coming from the stock voltage regulator?


Entire System:
1) If I'm running this headlight at 36Watts, the Lighted Whip at 25 watts, and a stock tail light I'll be at approximately 71 Watts.  Since I am reaching what I believe is the watt limits of the system (55-60W, I could be wrong) will this increase the amps as there is not enough watts to push the electrical signal, to a point I'll over heat or burn up the system/ coils?



Hopefully I was clear on all of my questions, if not let me know where I was not and I'll try to clarify best I can.

Thanks

1) Not 100% but 80 watts sounds right. I have found aftermarket stators at 130watt. You can always get your stock one rewound for more watts.
2) After the regulator, it should be around 13-15VAC, but they all vary.
3) Rogue got that.

1) Strobing is due to the AC turning off and on (switching the way electric goes. A simple diode will not fix this as it. A full bridge rectifier will help. The flickering will actually destroy the LED fast. Get this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Universal-Rectifier-Converts-12V-AC-to-12V-DC-Voltage-/171266352569?hash=item27e04525b9:g:6WMAAOSwl9BWKkIU&vxp=mtr
Also a little 12VDC rc battery will help with any strobing.
2) No, a full bridge will normally convert 12VAC to 12VDC. Some can increase voltage but they are combined with something else.

1) Amps = Wattage / Volts. Also, normally you lose wattage going from AC to DC. IIRC it is around 20% lose. So 80 watts will become around 65 watts.