Squish fixed on head and o ringed. Ears on cylinder welded/reinforced. If it's an 87 upgraded head studs

Overall condition?
(factor cost to bring it to stock)

How hard is it to start? (Factor cost to get it to start first or second kick.)
(can they even get it started and prove it runs. Dont buy the "just needs the carb cleaned")

How well does it run?
Check compression and crank bearing play with flywheel wiggle.(Factor new top/bottom end, if needed.)

Is there a valid title? (cost to transfer title)

Currently registered or back fees? (factor cost to bring current)

What condition is the wiring? (factor rewiring)

Condition of the plastics, tires, axle, bearings?

There is usually a lot of room to negotiate when sticking to the big items while pointing out all the work that will need to be done. Leverage can be made by acting more disinterested as the deal goes on... Especially if it's been up for sale for awhile.

By reminding the owner of all the work that will need to be done, it makes it easier to get a fair price.

he said it dosent have compression so im already going to look for carnage as piston might have pieces in bottom end annd crank play/too much clearance

On my 250 I got one that "needed the carb cleaned" turned out that the wrist pin came loose and messed up the cylinder as well as the crank bearings having play, just to get the crank rebuilt and new inserts in the cases I'm looking at $900.00 just for the bottom end. And that's with me taking it apart and putting it back together.

My mistake was being too much excited about it and not giving it the FULL look over. Ive always liked if the seller is specifically avoiding a topic to make sure to check it out. Always inspect the frame closely, and make sure to pull up on the frame to check the wear and tear on shocks and shock bearings as well as steering. Give everything a good wiggle to make sure its tight and not neglected. Good luck on the buy